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Reload Thread: Going Active

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    West's Avatar
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    Going Active

    I had a few quick questions about going active. I have an MCC406M comming which is 6 channels (4x50w and 2x100w at 4ohm. Will this be enough power to drive a 3 way active setup for most components like the Legatia SE VI (Stage VI - Legatia SE - The Home of the World's Finest Loudspeakers, and World Championship Car Audio Speaker Systems.) or Hertz hi energy?

    Any other relevant info would be appreicated. And how I should set my gains?

    Would the best configuration be:
    Tweeter @50w
    Mid @50w
    Mid/sub @100w

    Thanks guys.







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    Bettr n' Revrse's Avatar
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    Re: Going Active

    No super tweet! Mid woofer, mid, tweet... That will probably be fine for power since they are rated at 12 volts as well...




    Western Rep.

    99 Honda CRV: (Always Changing) ___________ 79 F-150: Show Truck ________________
    -Head Unit: Eclipse CD7100________________ -Head Unit: Eclipse CD7100
    -Sub Stage: Sundown SD-2 8's sealed________ -Sub Stage: Looking
    -Mids/Highs: Deciding_____________________ -Mids/Highs: Scan Speak & Blaupunkt
    -Sub Amp: MMATS Hifi 6 channel____________ -Sub Amp: American Warrior Set (Zed Built)
    -Mid Amp: ^^^ 5/6 bridged at 1 ohm_________ -Mid Amp: ^^^

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    Re: Going Active

    Quote Originally Posted by Bettr n' Revrse View Post
    No super tweet! Mid woofer, mid, tweet... That will probably be fine for power since they are rated at 12 volts as well...
    Shows how much I know about active >.<, Thanks!

    Fixed my op...




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    Re: Going Active

    3 way on your first active setup?


    Respect.



    80prs
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    2 MB Quart DSC1500.1 strapped on 1 Tantric HDD 12
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    Re: Going Active

    Quote Originally Posted by av83 View Post
    3 way on your first active setup?


    Respect.
    Appreicate that ^^.
    This is gonna destroy my wallet lmao...
    Gotta go big or go home at this point. Once this is done, its done, not gonna touch it for a few years...




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    Re: Going Active

    Quote Originally Posted by West View Post
    Appreicate that ^^.
    This is gonna destroy my wallet lmao...
    Gotta go big or go home at this point. Once this is done, its done, not gonna touch it for a few years...

    Lol, i almost put something in that post about not knowing whether to respect or feel sorry for your wallet, as well, lol...

    I just went active yesterday, but I did it with some used cdt's i got off here a few months ago. Sounds way more expensive than it was. I have zero doubts now that proper installation>spending loads of cash. ...although spending loads of cash does help.



    80prs
    RF t800.4, CDT es-6mo, DD T2
    2 MB Quart DSC1500.1 strapped on 1 Tantric HDD 12
    Mike Singer 310 amp 6 phase
    2 runs of Monster Cable 1/0

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    Re: Going Active

    Quote Originally Posted by av83 View Post
    Lol, i almost put something in that post about not knowing whether to respect or feel sorry for your wallet, as well, lol...

    I just went active yesterday, but I did it with some used cdt's i got off here a few months ago. Sounds way more expensive than it was. I have zero doubts now that proper installation>spending loads of cash. ...although spending loads of cash does help.
    Speakers are the only things I would prefer to buy new. BUT if a tasty set of 3 ways come up on the classifieds I'd snatch em up.




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    Re: Going Active

    I'd suggest starting out with a matched set for your first adventure into 3-way active. Something like the Precision Power PC3.65C would be a good set to cut your teeth on. Only after you get a knack for messing around with crossover points and coming up with shortcomings you wish to improve upon would I suggest DIYing 3-way plus sub active. A properly set up 3-way active system will easily outperform many 2-way active setups. The only hard thing is setting up the proper 3-way from a DIY, raw driver choice perspective and finding suitable locations for the drivers.

    Then again, I spent a lot of time, money, and effort the last time I did a DIY 2 way active set. I went through at least 3 component sets prior to looking at the specs of raw drivers and figuring out what would work in a sealed factory pod and a 6x8 infinite baffle location. Never did I think that a Mach5 Audio MLI-65 mated with a Tang Band W4-1757SB would outperform CDT, Alpine Type R, and Pioneer Premier Components. IMHO the CDT and Type R comps had terrible 6.5" drivers with a so so tweeter. The Pioneer premier components were midbass champions in the Shaker 500 8" pod, but came with a not so great tweeter.

    Now, to change it up, going with HAT drivers from the get go is not a bad idea. I even considered running the L6v2 in my WRX, but figured I would try these Genesis components or Soundstream Reference 3-ways in 2 way mode since they are collecting dust anyway. I don't care for the HAT ring radiator tweeter and would much rather use one of these, aimed slightly off axis: Madisound Speaker Store, Madisound Speaker Store or Madisound Speaker Store

    Of course, that is just my personal preference because I am overly sensitive to frequencies in a particular range and they trigger a bad case of tinnitus. Once the ringing starts, I shut the music off all together.



    I used to swear by old school car audio gear, now I swear at it!

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    Re: Going Active

    Quote Originally Posted by gunz4me2 View Post
    I'd suggest starting out with a matched set for your first adventure into 3-way active. Something like the Precision Power PC3.65C would be a good set to cut your teeth on. Only after you get a knack for messing around with crossover points and coming up with shortcomings you wish to improve upon would I suggest DIYing 3-way plus sub active. A properly set up 3-way active system will easily outperform many 2-way active setups. The only hard thing is setting up the proper 3-way from a DIY, raw driver choice perspective and finding suitable locations for the drivers.

    Then again, I spent a lot of time, money, and effort the last time I did a DIY 2 way active set. I went through at least 3 component sets prior to looking at the specs of raw drivers and figuring out what would work in a sealed factory pod and a 6x8 infinite baffle location. Never did I think that a Mach5 Audio MLI-65 mated with a Tang Band W4-1757SB would outperform CDT, Alpine Type R, and Pioneer Premier Components. IMHO the CDT and Type R comps had terrible 6.5" drivers with a so so tweeter. The Pioneer premier components were midbass champions in the Shaker 500 8" pod, but came with a not so great tweeter.

    Now, to change it up, going with HAT drivers from the get go is not a bad idea. I even considered running the L6v2 in my WRX, but figured I would try these Genesis components or Soundstream Reference 3-ways in 2 way mode since they are collecting dust anyway. I don't care for the HAT ring radiator tweeter and would much rather use one of these, aimed slightly off axis: Madisound Speaker Store, Madisound Speaker Store or Madisound Speaker Store

    Of course, that is just my personal preference because I am overly sensitive to frequencies in a particular range and they trigger a bad case of tinnitus. Once the ringing starts, I shut the music off all together.
    Really appreciate the advice. I am looking at 165KRX3 3 WAYS FOCAL NEW 6.5" KRX3 COMPONENT SPEAKERS K2 POWER on ebay... think I can get em for around 900... would that be a good set to start with?

    Do you think I have a good possibility of damaging the speakers and thats why I should work my way up?

    Those madison speakers are really affordable... think you could suggest a nice three way mix for me from there?

    Sorry for all the questions.




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    Re: Going Active

    You could make a really nice set from Madisound




    Western Rep.

    99 Honda CRV: (Always Changing) ___________ 79 F-150: Show Truck ________________
    -Head Unit: Eclipse CD7100________________ -Head Unit: Eclipse CD7100
    -Sub Stage: Sundown SD-2 8's sealed________ -Sub Stage: Looking
    -Mids/Highs: Deciding_____________________ -Mids/Highs: Scan Speak & Blaupunkt
    -Sub Amp: MMATS Hifi 6 channel____________ -Sub Amp: American Warrior Set (Zed Built)
    -Mid Amp: ^^^ 5/6 bridged at 1 ohm_________ -Mid Amp: ^^^

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    Re: Going Active

    Quote Originally Posted by Bettr n' Revrse View Post
    You could make a really nice set from Madisound
    The prices are REALLY attractive, I'll give it a shot...

    If you had my setup in a 99camry what would be your setup from Madisound? I'll try to put one together for you guys to critique.




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    Re: Going Active

    Madisound Speaker Store
    Madisound Speaker Store
    Madisound Speaker Store

    That's my affordable selection. Not sure how they preform individually.
    Last edited by West; 09-04-2012 at 08:19 PM.




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    Re: Going Active

    Quote Originally Posted by Bettr n' Revrse View Post
    You could make a really nice set from Madisound
    I wrote them what I was looking for... lets see if they reply.




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    Re: Going Active

    You can't go wrong with HAT.

    You can certainly build a nice Scanspeak set from Madisound.

    Dayton Reference series is a nice place to start.

    Morel is another good choice.

    Base your decision on the locations, aiming, and airspace.

    For example; my kicks have a natural roll off at 3kHz when off-axis. On-axis response extends above 12khz with the same drivers (Dayton RS100 are 80Hz-20kHz). But off-axis they are not locatable, you'd never know they were there, everything is above the dash. On-axis they can be located at times. I will experiment with different angles and see if I can increase response to 5kHz while not being locatable.

    Tympanny/Peerless is another decent option.



    have you been helped by me? i'd love to know. shoot me a PM.

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    Re: Going Active

    Quote Originally Posted by keep_hope_alive View Post
    You can't go wrong with HAT.

    You can certainly build a nice Scanspeak set from Madisound.

    Dayton Reference series is a nice place to start.

    Morel is another good choice.

    Base your decision on the locations, aiming, and airspace.

    For example; my kicks have a natural roll off at 3kHz when off-axis. On-axis response extends above 12khz with the same drivers (Dayton RS100 are 80Hz-20kHz). But off-axis they are not locatable, you'd never know they were there, everything is above the dash. On-axis they can be located at times. I will experiment with different angles and see if I can increase response to 5kHz while not being locatable.

    Tympanny/Peerless is another decent option.
    I am going to have to do some more reading, I am rushing into this a bit. Is there any good literature you can suggest that would help guide me?

    On-axis vs off-axis: At ear level vs. not at ear level?

    My basic plan was to go with a three way system have the tweeter in the stock position in my car (99 camry) and have the mid in a custom built enclosure on the dash and have the woofer in the lower section of the door.




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