Re: Going Active
I'd suggest starting out with a matched set for your first adventure into 3-way active. Something like the Precision Power PC3.65C would be a good set to cut your teeth on. Only after you get a knack for messing around with crossover points and coming up with shortcomings you wish to improve upon would I suggest DIYing 3-way plus sub active. A properly set up 3-way active system will easily outperform many 2-way active setups. The only hard thing is setting up the proper 3-way from a DIY, raw driver choice perspective and finding suitable locations for the drivers.
Then again, I spent a lot of time, money, and effort the last time I did a DIY 2 way active set. I went through at least 3 component sets prior to looking at the specs of raw drivers and figuring out what would work in a sealed factory pod and a 6x8 infinite baffle location. Never did I think that a Mach5 Audio MLI-65 mated with a Tang Band W4-1757SB would outperform CDT, Alpine Type R, and Pioneer Premier Components. IMHO the CDT and Type R comps had terrible 6.5" drivers with a so so tweeter. The Pioneer premier components were midbass champions in the Shaker 500 8" pod, but came with a not so great tweeter.
Now, to change it up, going with HAT drivers from the get go is not a bad idea. I even considered running the L6v2 in my WRX, but figured I would try these Genesis components or Soundstream Reference 3-ways in 2 way mode since they are collecting dust anyway. I don't care for the HAT ring radiator tweeter and would much rather use one of these, aimed slightly off axis: Madisound Speaker Store, Madisound Speaker Store or Madisound Speaker Store
Of course, that is just my personal preference because I am overly sensitive to frequencies in a particular range and they trigger a bad case of tinnitus. Once the ringing starts, I shut the music off all together.
I used to swear by old school car audio gear, now I swear at it!