Looking for Tweeter recommendations

[VisceralSound]

So from what I've gathered I need to get a tweeter set thats higher than the db Sensitivity: 92dB(1w/1m) of my midrange?

I'm looking for recommendations of a pair of tweeters (don't need x-over since my amp will have one built in) that won't break the bank, and could work well in a dash/(door panel if no room) or A-Column install.
Amp will be a Rub4.600
budget would be like <$70.00

Midrange: Lanzar OPTI6PM Full Range Car Speakers at Onlinecarstereo.com

[VisceralSound]

I was kind of looking at these:
Cadence CVLT-35B Car Tweeters at Onlinecarstereo.com

But I heard Cadence quality has gone down a little? Unless these are different. (just word, not saying they did or anything)

[BnGRacing]

So from what I've gathered I need to get a tweeter set thats higher than the db Sensitivity: 92dB(1w/1m) of my midrange?

No. Use an L-pad or sand resistor and you can use any tweet you wish regardless of its sensitivity rating.

And don't use the crossover on your amp. Why? Because the crossovers in most amps are terrible. And if you don't have a good EQ (the DSP in your HU is NOT a good EQ), going active is a waste of effort. You'll sound better 10 times out of 10 with passives than using only the onboard amp processing.

[Gregulate]

I've heard good things about the Vifa on PE. Haven't heard them, mind you, just heard of them.

[VisceralSound]

No. Use an L-pad or sand resistor and you can use any tweet you wish regardless of its sensitivity rating.

And don't use the crossover on your amp. Why? Because the crossovers in most amps are terrible. And if you don't have a good EQ (the DSP in your HU is NOT a good EQ), going active is a waste of effort. You'll sound better 10 times out of 10 with passives than using only the onboard amp processing.

I was thinking about picking this up too.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...on-EQS746.html

[wenn_du_weinst]

if you want to know the truth pm me don't listen to mister bng

[zako]

The Seas neodymium tweeters, aluminum and textile sold by madisound, are considered good value. They have good high frequency response, low fs, and the cup diameter is great for most car installs. Another interesting option is to pick up a set of used Alpine Type-X pro tweeters. A lot of people are sitting on an unused set. These are considered very good, but need to be on-axis for best performance.

[BnGRacing]

I was thinking about picking this up too.
Clarion EQS746 7-Band Rotary Equalizer/EQ (EQS-746)

In-dash EQs, as well as HU EQs, are kinda worthless unless you're looking for dancing lights and knobs to turn.

The 1 thing you should look for in an EQ is the ability to EQ each channel (left and right) separately. I do not know of an in-dash unit that can do that. You want this feature b/c the interior of your car is not perfectly symmetrical and you use the EQ to cut out peaks that occur b/c of environmental reasons & the usual bump you get at your crossover points. Furthermore, you'll need an EQ tone down the natural peak of the speaker. All speakers have a natural resonance and they're most efficient at this frequency. What happens, usually, is this is also where they're the loudest and a peaky mid will actually sound kinda harsh. EQ that SOB and you're done.

But if you're going to get into an EQ that can do all that, might as well get a real crossover & EQ combo. The crossovers on most amps really do a poor job and can dirty the sound. In addition, you have to trust the silk screening done by the nice Chinaman to know where you're crossing things over. This isn't a big deal with subs, but, if you hit the 10x switch and you have to guess where the crossover point is...well...getting it wrong will smoke your tweet. Use the x-over in your HU (if you have that feature) and throw a cap in-line just in case your system pops or resets.

Now's the part of the episode you'll want time alignment...which is a very slick feature. And you'll start looking at higher end processors that can do everything. But here's the funny thing; none can adjust for phase. Guess what; higher end passive crossovers can and can ball-park time alignment thru this phasing. It's why some component sets cost an arm & a leg; drivers are cheap...it's the passive that eats up most of the man hours in R&D.

But what do I know? Wenn's the expert and his expertise is so top-secret you have to PM it. Disregard everything I wrote and look to wenn for audio salvation. After all, I don't even have an avatar...so what do I know?

[fasfocus00]

i've got a set of these that i'll let go for $40 shipped. never been used.

ZRS-40T - Cadence Sound Store

[smgreen20]

BnG at least elaborated in his 2nd post as opposed to his first one, which better clears things up a bit. I was going to agree with Wenn, but I now stand in the middle.

I will argue that you will get better results going active over passive. It's not as easy to set, but better results overall. If you're using quality amps, the Xover dial will be pretty reliable. The JL slash series and the PG Xenon series all have indents that are precise to the freq. I run an Audison LRx5.1k and use the amps built in Xover to run active and I have 0 issues with it. But once again, Audison is quality.

[martiandancer31]

i use the vifa 1" metal dome tweeters. They are kind of big which is definitely a downside. However, they sound excellent, are reasonably efficient, and are 4 ohms.