Will the midrange be drowned out?

[sooperxtool]

Trying to put together a 3 way component set, just wondering if I need to find midranges that will handle similar power to the other components? I have seen a few midranges that look like they would work well, but they only handle say 20-30w RMS, and my other set is something like 60w RMS per driver. Would those midranges be overpowered by the other speakers? Should I look for different ones?

[supermaxx123]

Midranges don't need much power to get loud because of the frequencies they play, same with tweeters. The lower in the sound spectrum you go the less efficient speakers tend to be thus needing more power.

[sooperxtool]

Thanks! I kindof figured as much but needed some confirmation.

[sooperxtool]

Ok, so I've been trying to narrow down some mids for my setup. Didn't really want to start a new thread...

I guess I'll give all the info so hopefully I'll get the best answers without questions about it.

This is going in a single cab Ranger btw... What I have is a set of Rockford Punch 6.5 comps. I also bought a set of Q-form kicks (never fiberglassed, and didn't feel comfortable just going at it). The plan is to deaden the doors properly, seal the big holes with plexi, and do the foam behind the speaker mounts as shown in the sticky about deadening doors. The 6.5s will go in there.

As far as the kicks- I plan on mounting the tweets, and whatever midranges I decide on in them. I plan on using a layer or two of deadening material on them and behind them, and maybe a bit of the foam material to prevent picking up reflections from behind the kicks? Since I will have dedicated midbass in the door, and I won't need any bass from the midranges, will this work well enough? Seems that from what I understand it isn't as important to seal up a speaker if bass is not what you are seeking from it, correct?

One more question... is it possible to run a 8 ohm speaker off of a car amp that is rated for 4 ohm? Is there a way to wire the speaker so it looks like a 4 ohm to the amp? Is it even an issue?

So with that said, help me pick out some midrange drivers! I don't have a strict budget, but I don't want to spend a fortune, and from what I understand, I could have some good options from Parts-Express. Here's what I found:

Dayton RS100-4
Dayton Audio RS100-4 4" Reference Full-Range Driver 4 Ohm

Dayton ND105-4
Dayton Audio ND105-4 4" Aluminum Cone Midbass Driver 4 Ohm

Peerless
Peerless 832444 4-1/2" Shielded Midbass Driver 4 Ohm

Any other recommendations??

[JL Audio]

poop

[cd6551]

Check out the fountek fr89-ex. They are a 3 inch full range speaker but you can run a tweeter with them. I ran them from 250 hz (18 db slope) to 10k with around 50 rms paired with a set of dayton rs-225 midbass and seas tweeters. They never struggled crossed over that low and had no problem keeping up with the 8 inch midbass and tc9 12 I was running. You can find them on madisound.

[dontbeaprix]

those nd 105's look cool, like little subs lol.

[sooperxtool]

Check out the fountek fr89-ex. They are a 3 inch full range speaker but you can run a tweeter with them. I ran them from 250 hz (18 db slope) to 10k with around 50 rms paired with a set of dayton rs-225 midbass and seas tweeters. They never struggled crossed over that low and had no problem keeping up with the 8 inch midbass and tc9 12 I was running. You can find them on madisound.

I like those. Not too expensive either.

Would I really need them to be crossed that low with the 6.5s that I have? I don't think I would necessarily need any bass response from them per-say. I guess I should have mentioned I also have a shallow 10 for the sub-bass. Will I still feel like the midbass is lacking??

[sooperxtool]

Ok, need some guidance here.

How do I read these graphs? What do they mean? And are they even measuring the same things?
One has Ohms, and they other says "Clio" and "Deg" on one side of them?? But everything else appears to be the same?

Dayton RS100
http://www.daytonaudio.com/lspeakers...-4_295-378.pdf

Fountek FR89
Products_Fountek Electronics Co.,Ltd

Do the graphs indicate a $30 difference between the two?

[i2ain2thunder]

If you ask me midrange really doesn't need to be that good, the middle range of frequencies are the easiest for our ears to hear it really doesn't take much.

[sooperxtool]

So are you saying its not necessary to spend $50? $30? What should I be looking at?

[i2ain2thunder]

Right you really don't need expensive midrange to be able to keep up just about anything will seriously. When it comes to what sounds the best well then there starts to be differences. Personally I think ribbon midranges sound really nice but they can be quite pricey. Tangband really does do well with midrange some of the better drivers out there for cheap I'd check them out if I were you.

[sooperxtool]

Basically all Tang Bands I have seen are more expensive than the drivers I posted... Am I not looking in the right place?

Also I think I have yet to see a T.B. that isn't 8 Ohm impedance.

[i2ain2thunder]

I wouldn't knock Dayton audio they are legit too go with whats cheapest really hard to beat Dayton's prices. I have dayton midbass 7s they are pretty sweet. I've heard nothing but good things about them.

[sooperxtool]

thunder- Seems that's what I have seen from reviews also. Really haven't seen anything negative about 'em. But I do fancy those Founteks.... Are they $20 better than the Daytons?? Or will there be any noticeable difference?

They both seem well built. A few numbers are different here and there but I'm not sure what they all mean. Anything stand out? I'm still in the learning phase.