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    Merciless's Avatar
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    Help!!!!!!!!!!!

    Hi, my name is Ben, and I am 16. I bought a 1999 Pontiac GTP, which has 5.25's in the kicks and 1" tweeters. I need help deciding on a component set. I have a Kenwood Excelon HU, Alpine V-12 Amp (50x4 and 150x1), and a JL 10" W1 in a Stealthbox. I listen to mostly Rap, and then Hip-Hop, Rock/Metal, and a tiny bit of Softer Rock (Gavin DeGraw, etc.)

    I don't think going to 6.5's is an option because I would like to keep my system and reinstall the stock when I sell the car.

    I have a list of about 6-8 sets I am really considering, and a list of about 20 others that are in my price range. I will post it as soon as I can get my hands on my laptop.

    Now, I have never put a system in a car before and have some questions.

    1) I have heard that I shouldn't buy a set of co-axials for rear fill, and should just have front comps and the sub in the trunk. Because you have to have sufficient processing power to make rear fill sound good. Will it sound like the stock system faded all the way to the front?

    2) I am a unconfessed Bass-alholic. Will the 10" JL be enough with 150w going to it? I see alot of other people's systems online with one or two 12's and 400-800w. I don't want it to tear my car apart, but in the music I listen to Bass is very important. This brings me to my next statement--

    What I am looking for in the comps is something that would be able to assist my sub. Something that could reach down to ~45-50 hertz. Now, I know you can get this in a 6.5 set, but are there any 5.25 sets that could?

    So bascially, in this comp set I am looking for
    1) Bass
    2) Sound Clarity/Quality

    What I would like to spend is $150 or less. I mean I could move to 175, or maybe even 200 if it is worth it. If just having front comps and the sub would sound good, I would bridge my amp and send 100 watts to the comps.


    THANKS!!!!!!!!







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    Re: Help!!!!!!!!!!!

    the stealth box WILL NOT be enough. I had one and they are great for some bass but they dont "hit"



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    Re: Help!!!!!!!!!!!

    You need a few things. 1 is a much better box especially with underpowering the sub, do you think you're capable of building one? Next don't set ur components to operate down to 45-50hz they are not made for that they are mids and are made to handle mids set them to 130+ set ur sub to cover everything up to 120hz. rears typically don't matter because bass is so heavy back there, but ur not gonna have much bass with that box and amp. I'd get some tweets for the back, 4 good tweets makes for a nice sound stage.




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    Re: Help!!!!!!!!!!!

    Go to PartsXpress.com | Parts Xpress pick out 2x5 1/4 mid woofers 2xtweeters and maybe some crossovers. the money you save should go into a box either build one or have someone on this forum make you one. I'd spend little money on the mid woofers since ur power is so low you could get away with some classic dayton mid woofers i think 18$ a piece 2 1inch tweets should run u like 24$. then u got 75$ for a better box, matterials to build one out of MDF prob cost you 40$ at your local hardware store, get some MDF, wood glue, and screws. then make something that will help ur sub kick some *** like this DECWARE's Death Box II - High Output Subwoofer




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    Re: Help!!!!!!!!!!!

    That box is very fast and accurate will make rock/heavy metal kick good.




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    Re: Help!!!!!!!!!!!

    Most don't like xover points that high up (130+ Hz), I for one don't. I'll 2nd getting some tweets, mids and xovers separately. I would go with these mids though. https://www.madisound.com/store/prod...roducts_id=843 They'll play low enough for you to cross them over at 80 Hz. If you cross over to high the subs could start to reveal where they are and ideally you don't want that. The Silver Flutes leave you with a lot of flexibility in your xover points.

    My 6 1/2" Silver Flutes are crossed over at ~55Hz at 12dB/Oct and could play lower if I wanted to so the 5 1/4"s would be fine at 80Hz. A friend of mine has the 5 1/4" Flutes and they're crossed over at 90Hz and they're totally happy.




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    Re: Help!!!!!!!!!!!

    With my EQ on flat, my Pioneer TS-D1720C components in my Jeep play happily down to 31.5 Hz with a 24 dB/octave slope. My sub is crossed at 40 Hz with an 18 dB/octave slope. It blends extremely well. Saying the front speakers need to be crossoved over at 130 Hz plus is definitely incorrect.



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    Re: Help!!!!!!!!!!!

    Meh depends, I love to crank the volume....I suppose if ur gonna spend the money yeah get some good comps that can do that but lets be realistic here, the guy has a 150$ to 175$ spending limit and look at his bass. He's not gonna be happy with that box. Thats the only reason I recommended that. I guess if I had a choice I'd make a better box and tune the sub higher and get decent mids tuned higher. The other option is to get nice comps and tun em low I'm just thinking ur gonna be dissapointed in the bass. Every system is different though, I tried tuning mine to 90hz and 90hz and it sounded like **** for some reason mine sounds really nice at about 105hz and 110hz.
    Last edited by i2ain2thunder; 04-22-2011 at 07:19 PM.




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    Re: Help!!!!!!!!!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by ejschultz View Post
    With my EQ on flat, my Pioneer TS-D1720C components in my Jeep play happily down to 31.5 Hz with a 24 dB/octave slope. My sub is crossed at 40 Hz with an 18 dB/octave slope. It blends extremely well. Saying the front speakers need to be crossoved over at 130 Hz plus is definitely incorrect.
    That impresses me. What xover are you using I thought those pioneers just have a 12db slope. It doesn't distort when you crank it up? I don't think I could ever x my sub that low though I like SPL would loose too much bass.




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    Re: Help!!!!!!!!!!!

    I'm running them passive but I have my HU's (9855) crossover set at 31.5 Hz for the highpass. With my HU, I can set the crossover with a 6dB/oct, 12dB/oct, 18dB/oct, or 24dB/octave slope. I was actually contemplating going active with the setup, but I traded my 4 channel amp for a HU to add to my HU collection. I'm also thinking about completely ditching my sub at this point. I can crank them pretty loud on 70 RMS. With the EQ flat, they take it and they like it. They took about 3 or 4 months of breaking in before they could do that though. You'd probably blow them if you tried it right out of the box with the stiffer suspension they're going to have.



    94 Caprice Classic LS: DEH-P800PRS, TS-C720PRS, MRV-F545, MRD-M1005, 2 Fi X 12s in 2.5 net cubes sealed; 97 Grand Cherokee TSi: CDA-9855, TS-D1720C, MRV-F345, MRD-M605, SWX-1043D in .54 net cubes sealed




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    Re: Help!!!!!!!!!!!

    Oh, and crossing the sub as low as I do allows it to properly blend with the front stage. If it plays to high, you can hear it's position. With it crossed at 40 Hz, you don't even notice it.



    94 Caprice Classic LS: DEH-P800PRS, TS-C720PRS, MRV-F545, MRD-M1005, 2 Fi X 12s in 2.5 net cubes sealed; 97 Grand Cherokee TSi: CDA-9855, TS-D1720C, MRV-F345, MRD-M605, SWX-1043D in .54 net cubes sealed




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    Re: Help!!!!!!!!!!!

    ive got a set of 5.25 mb quart comps if ur interested.



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    Re: Help!!!!!!!!!!!

    Thanks for all the advice so far!

    I bought the sub and the box for $90, and I always thought it was a really nice box because it is $600 new.


    But, I want to get the comps and get the whole system installed, and then listen to it and say, hey I need more bass. Then go out, buy a mono amp and different sub/box.

    So here is the monster list, enjoy
    I highlighted the ones I really like.
    Boston Acoustics S50 $85
    Cadence CVL-5K $120
    Diamond D151 $60
    Diamond D652 $130
    Infinity 5020cs $110
    Infinity 5030cs $105
    Infinity 50.9cs $135
    JL C2-525 $145

    MB Quart DSF213 $95
    Kenwood P509PS $70
    JBL P560C $120
    Kenwood KFC-X1300P $110
    Kicker KS 5.2 $135
    Kicker KS 50.2 $100
    MB Quart PVF213 $120
    Memphis PRS5V2 $110
    MTX TX5 $130
    MTX TX5001 $120
    Orion P5.2 $110
    Orion C2.52 $110
    Orion XTR52 $125
    Polk 5251 $100
    Rockford P152S $70
    MB Quart RVF 213 $70
    Morel Maximo $150

    Now, I never thought about piecing a set together. So if that is the way to go....


    I really, really like the Morel and Diamonds just because they are known in the higher price points. The Polk 5251 is supposed to be a firm competitor, as are the MB Quarts and Infinity's. Are Memphis's speakers as good as their subs? What about Orion or MTX?


    I kinda crank my music, if that is a factor at all.

    Thanks for all the input so far, keep it up!!!

    Last edited by Merciless; 04-23-2011 at 07:14 PM. Reason: woops




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    Re: Help!!!!!!!!!!!

    Your mids dont play bass. Thats what your sub is for. Looking for bass in a component set is going to lead you down a long road of dissatisfaction.



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    HU: ///Alpine 9887, KCE-400BT, KCE-433IV, KTX-100EQ Imprint, 8Gb iPod Touch
    Front Mids: Eclipse SC6500
    Front Tweeters: Morel made Xtant 28MM Silks
    Subs: Audiomobile Evo 10" TC2+
    Enclosure: 1.1 Cubes sealed with 10 Ounces Poly Fill
    Amp: Audio Systems Twister F6 380 III

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    Re: Help!!!!!!!!!!!

    Take the Pioneer TS-D1720C and TS-D1320C into consideration. The 1720s are what I'm running in my Jeep. They're the ones that I'm able to crossover down to 31.5 Hz. They're 6.75" mids though. The 1320s are the same but a 5.25" mid. I ran those before in my Jeep before going to the larger set and my buddy ran a set in his Alero for a while too. You'd be surprised at the amount of midbass the 1320s are capable of. People tend to kind of throw Pioneer to the side because their mainstream stuff (G and A series) *****. The D series speakers are really nice, especially for the price.



    94 Caprice Classic LS: DEH-P800PRS, TS-C720PRS, MRV-F545, MRD-M1005, 2 Fi X 12s in 2.5 net cubes sealed; 97 Grand Cherokee TSi: CDA-9855, TS-D1720C, MRV-F345, MRD-M605, SWX-1043D in .54 net cubes sealed




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