hi all.......
just grabbed a set of comps LNIB for £30 = $48.... shipped
Vibe BlackAir 13cm comps
these are British distribution but i was wondering what the specs look like to everyone..??![]()
hi all.......
just grabbed a set of comps LNIB for £30 = $48.... shipped
Vibe BlackAir 13cm comps
these are British distribution but i was wondering what the specs look like to everyone..??![]()
They sure are..... Unique =]
PHD Audiophile Systems Dealer
I haven't used them, but I've heard good things about vibe
Bought from: jamesw, dave_damage, ampjunkielikeme, JuicyJeff
Sold to: DaBeholder, ampjunkielikeme, ax600, shackel. Worked with Rio
Team Edge Customs
Last year: '05 Ford Escape - Alpine 7995 - AllTsunami 1/0 - C&D batt 15" IA Warden (2) Audiopipe AQX-3500.1's at 1/4 ohm 151.3 outlaw
This year: '92 Mazda 323 - C&D batt Batcap 4k, (6) Powerbass 15's (250rms each) (1) Audiopipe AQX-3500.1's at 1.3 ohm 152 outlaw
Currently rebuilding Mazda with (4) American Bass HD 15's in a wall, 157?
cheers lads!!
it states a minimum of 50wrms...??, whats gonna happen if i give them less....... will i damage them.??
can you under-power speakers..??, i did hear on here somewhere that its a myth......
myth, try to keep around the rms rating or lower....don't go higher unless you really know what you're doing, lol
Bought from: jamesw, dave_damage, ampjunkielikeme, JuicyJeff
Sold to: DaBeholder, ampjunkielikeme, ax600, shackel. Worked with Rio
Team Edge Customs
Last year: '05 Ford Escape - Alpine 7995 - AllTsunami 1/0 - C&D batt 15" IA Warden (2) Audiopipe AQX-3500.1's at 1/4 ohm 151.3 outlaw
This year: '92 Mazda 323 - C&D batt Batcap 4k, (6) Powerbass 15's (250rms each) (1) Audiopipe AQX-3500.1's at 1.3 ohm 152 outlaw
Currently rebuilding Mazda with (4) American Bass HD 15's in a wall, 157?
d2k thanked for this post
cheers buddy!!
No speaker, in the history of speakers, has ever been blown by too little power. Ever. I don't care what your friend told you, he's a dirty liar.
There's a difference between hooking an amp to a set of comps that is rated for double their rated power, and actually supplying them double their rated power continuously. You've either gained your amp's output back significantly, so its not really outputting double the speakers' rated power, or the speakers you have were rated very poorly by their manufacturer.
When people 'overpower' their speakers by a significant amount, and call it headroom, this simply means the amp is gained down to lower its output to the level the speakers can handle, and all that wattage you removed from the output will go towards peak demand periods when an amp would normally start clipping immediately. This is why SQ guys like to 'overpower' their front stage, its a distortion reducing tactic for those peak output periods when the amp can draw significantly more power (and produce more output) than its rated for (or that it's gain/sensitivity is adjusted to).
The misconception that people are truly 'overpowering' their speakers by 2x, 3x or more times their rated power, stems from the same basic misunderstanding of rated power versus actual power that creates the misconception I address in my sig. Just because an amplifier is rated for X number of watts does not mean its outputting that many watts when the volume knob is turned all the way up, due to conditions such as gain settings, and system voltage for loosely regulated amps. It may be outputting less than rated, and it may be outputting more.
No speaker, in the history of speakers, has ever been blown by too little power. Ever. I don't care what your friend told you, he's a dirty liar.
as long as it's not Lanzar Vibe, you're probably ok
Got a pm regarding my sig
Originally Posted by audioholic
lol....noooo, there's no affiliation with Lanzar's entry level crap...
someone did say to me (in the UK) that underpowering is just as bad as overpowering....
''apparently'' if you underpower speakers designed for pretty high RMS outputs the cone wont vibrate enough to cool the coil, thus killing them softly..lol
any truth to that....???
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