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    bradfordpoole's Avatar
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    Sound Deadening. Worth it?

    I have a set of Earthquake VTEK MC6 comps going in my front and a set of the Earthquake Coaxials going in my rear of a 2006 GMC Sierra crew cab. I just bought the amp and was wondering would it be worth it to go ahead and wait until I get some sound deadener? If so should I deaden all doors and rear firewall? How much would I need?



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    Re: Sound Deadening. Worth it?

    have you picked the brand you want?

    Also, you wanting to do all 4 doors and the rear of the cabin correct? I would factor 5-10 sq feet per door depending on the brand you get. Like if you get damplifier pro you would only need the 5ish sq feet or if you get a cheaper deadener I would suggest doubling.

    Also, i would factor probably 10 square feet for the rear as well.

    you may also want to look into some closed cell foam to put behind the mids as well. You wont need 100% coverage with this, just enough to help absorb backwaves.

    I will also say each of my doors have about 30+sq feet of deadener per door, 100% coverage of closed cell foam inner and outer skins. and a layer of Luxury liner pro on the inner skin. My doors are about as solid as they are every going to get



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    Re: Sound Deadening. Worth it?

    Thanks alot for that post exactly what I needed. Well I was going to try the Audiowrap 62sqft roll but what is the difference in all sound deadeners? I know some are thicker than others but is there anything else? There all just tar right? So I should also do the foam as well?



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    Re: Sound Deadening. Worth it?

    Quote Originally Posted by bradfordpoole View Post
    Thanks alot for that post exactly what I needed. Well I was going to try the Audiowrap 62sqft roll but what is the difference in all sound deadeners? I know some are thicker than others but is there anything else? There all just tar right? So I should also do the foam as well?
    they are not all the same. and they are not just tar, infact the "tar" type is exactly what you do not want. the adhesive is a huge factor, as if it doesn't stay on it is useless. the thickness of the foil, along with the total mass. And to deaden the doors properly yes it is a multi step process with different materials doing different jobs, one stops rattles, one deadens ... You are better off NOT using the cheap wanna be deadener and search here you will find your answers very quickly.

    GL

    PS. Second Skin is a really good value



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    Re: Sound Deadening. Worth it?

    Quote Originally Posted by kmanian View Post
    they are not all the same. and they are not just tar, infact the "tar" type is exactly what you do not want. the adhesive is a huge factor, as if it doesn't stay on it is useless. the thickness of the foil, along with the total mass. And to deaden the doors properly yes it is a multi step process with different materials doing different jobs, one stops rattles, one deadens ... You are better off NOT using the cheap wanna be deadener and search here you will find your answers very quickly.

    GL

    PS. Second Skin is a really good value
    you should use a product before you refer to it as a Cheap Wanna be! i sure hope you werent talking about the AudioWrap here is a vehicle lined from top to bottom with it and it keeps sound inside for sure at 155.6db





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    Re: Sound Deadening. Worth it?




    Where the Competition begins


    Colorado Usaci SPL & Streetbeat Record holder!
    [IMG]http://www.soundoff.org/season_results/statesplrecords.pdf

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    Re: Sound Deadening. Worth it?

    Quote Originally Posted by kmanian View Post
    they are not all the same. and they are not just tar, infact the "tar" type is exactly what you do not want. the adhesive is a huge factor, as if it doesn't stay on it is useless. the thickness of the foil, along with the total mass. And to deaden the doors properly yes it is a multi step process with different materials doing different jobs, one stops rattles, one deadens ... You are better off NOT using the cheap wanna be deadener and search here you will find your answers very quickly.

    GL

    PS. Second Skin is a really good value
    word

    op here is my review on second skin I did a while back
    http://www.caraudio.com/forum/miscel...in-review.html



    2004 Cavalier ls sport
    H/U: Alpine W200 w/H701 processor
    Mid/Highs: 2 pairs ID x65 and full body ultra horns
    Mid/High amp: 3 ID 700.2
    Sub:2x12" IDMax
    Sub amp: ID 1200.1
    ref: massiveaudiocw, SplChoice, Th3pWn3r, duece212, XaznKewLguyX, connersdad19, alex5857, 5.3bowtie, smiley2186, cf2004, Tibor, Zeuslicious, IT Hertz, 310w6,dbeez, thehardknoxlife, matthewo, pokey_159, LaserRed38, jerseyboy, Abc123Abc, James Bang

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    Re: Sound Deadening. Worth it?

    Quote Originally Posted by Brian_smith06 View Post
    you may also want to look into some closed cell foam to put behind the mids as well. You wont need 100% coverage with this, just enough to help absorb backwaves.
    closed cell foam is poor at absorption, and note that absorption is relative to thickness. so a thin layer of CCF will only absorb high frequencies, if at all.

    the key product behind a door speaker is to break up waves, not absorb them. that is what the speaker deflex pads do, they are rubber with ribs that can break up some waves, again relative to frequency. you're mostly helping upper midrange with those products.
    Like this:
    Deflex 7" Power Pad Pair | Parts-Express.com


    CCF is mostly used to help quiet panel buzzes - i.e. you put it between plastic and metal mating parts.

    sound deadening is important if you want to get the most out of your system and lower some road noise. note that a mass loaded vinyl (MLV) product is really designed for road noise, but deadener will also help if you have 100% coverage. focus on the transmission hump, wheel wells, doors, etc. The firewall should have factory foam/MLV on it already. sealing up the doors is the best thing you can do for road noise and speaker performance. this requires you have some sheet metal or ABS or other material to cover the door openings, and seal them up.

    weatherstripping foams can help maintain seals between the speaker baffle and door, and between the speaker and the factory door panel grill. you don't want back waves from the rear speaker cone meeting with front waves as that is interference and results in poor sound and loss of midbass.



    have you been helped by me? i'd love to know. shoot me a PM.

    *My 2001 Accord build log: http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/536049-2001-accord-ex-sedan-its-long.html]
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    Re: Sound Deadening. Worth it?

    What else do I need besides just the mat? I just bought around 62 sq ft. of sound deadener. What else will I need in order to sound deaden doors. Iv heard of ensolite to cover access holes. is this necessary?



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    Re: Sound Deadening. Worth it?

    Quote Originally Posted by kmanian View Post
    they are not all the same. and they are not just tar, infact the "tar" type is exactly what you do not want. the adhesive is a huge factor, as if it doesn't stay on it is useless. the thickness of the foil, along with the total mass. And to deaden the doors properly yes it is a multi step process with different materials doing different jobs, one stops rattles, one deadens ... You are better off NOT using the cheap wanna be deadener and search here you will find your answers very quickly.

    GL

    PS. Second Skin is a really good value
    Quote Originally Posted by sub2weeker View Post
    you should use a product before you refer to it as a Cheap Wanna be! i sure hope you werent talking about the AudioWrap here is a vehicle lined from top to bottom with it and it keeps sound inside for sure at 155.6dbI have used cheap wanna be products, and they ****! the first cost of the product is only one part of the equation, the time and effort to install it is the bigger issue, then taking your car apart to strip it and reinstall the good stuff is added to the equation then also.

    I never said Audiowrap was crap, in fact if you learn to read and look again I didn't mention Audiowrap at all, I couldn't recommend Audiowrap as I have never used it, and because of that I wouldn't personally go throuhg the trouble of installing it unless it came highly recommended from some reliable sources. What I did do is refer to a brand that I do know works.

    As for it being installed in that 156db truck, that is great. I don't know what it has to do with keeping the sound in, especially with the windows open. Just a note, as some see increases some guys have noted a decrease in spl once "deadner" was installed. New if you are refering to decreasing the rattling, I will agree.



    So please back off as you have put words in my mouth, and I would hate for you to have to take the **** out of your's to reply.

    Goodday sir



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    Re: Sound Deadening. Worth it?

    Quote Originally Posted by bradfordpoole View Post
    What else do I need besides just the mat? I just bought around 62 sq ft. of sound deadener. What else will I need in order to sound deaden doors. Iv heard of ensolite to cover access holes. is this necessary?
    don't use closed cell foam over the holes, you want something rigid - like sheet metal or ABS plastic or 1/4" plywood coated in resin, etc. something water resistant. then deaden whatever you use to cover the holes and secure it with sheet metal screws.



    have you been helped by me? i'd love to know. shoot me a PM.

    *My 2001 Accord build log: http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/536049-2001-accord-ex-sedan-its-long.html]
    *2005 Scion tC Build Log: http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/516096-2005-scion-tc-sq-hertz-audison-pioneer-build-log.html
    *1998 Astro Van Build Log: http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/567468-kha-does-spl-build-1996-astro-van.html

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