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Reload Thread: Looking to feed each door 150 watts in my 2500HD

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    SkwurlyFab's Avatar
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    Looking to feed each door 150 watts in my 2500HD

    I don't have the 4runner with the 18 anymore, I'm actually back to stock! It's got a stock Bose system running off my Kenwood DNX8120 in dash unit. The Bose speakers are not working well with the OnStar adaptor, lots of crackling and popping and we've traced down every ****ing loose end that could possibly ground out.

    So we're gonna bypass the Bose bullshit and put some nice components in each door. I'd like to spend no more than 300 per pair of components. I already have a JL 300/4 which will power the front pair, I'll be purchasing a matching 300/4 shortly to power the rears.

    In my truck, the stock tweeters are mounted in the A pillars above the dash. So I need something that will fit in there. And the doors each take a 6 3/4" speaker according to Crutchfield. I haven't even tore into the truck at all yet so I don't even know the speaker dimensions! So weird compared to how well i've known the inner workings of all my other vehicles.

    Eventually there will be 2-4 large 12" subs in a center console set up that will run from the back firewall to the dash. It's a 5 seat crew cab so i'll have plenty of room. I have one Orion 2500D ready to go and will be purchasing another one to double the power. The subs will be loud, and I'd like to install some components that can rise above the bass the 1st time instead of having to re-install louder equipment later down the road.

    So what's good these days? I've been out of the audio scene for a minute now and I don't even know anymore! Please recommend a set of 6 3/4" component speakers that will take 150 watts RMS all day long while being LOUD and clear. I don't care about sound staging, it just needs to let the vocals and instrumentals be heard above all the bass. $300 per component set max please.

    Thanks!



    Headunit- Kenwood KDC-MP928
    Components- 4 Alpine SPR-17LS 6.5" Type R's
    Sub- 18" TC-5200
    Component Amp- JL Audio 300/4
    Sub Amp- Orion HCCA-D5000 at .7 ohms
    Wiring- All Stinger HPM Series, Big 3
    Enclosure- 3.2 cubes @ 28hz
    Battery- Optima Yellow Top
    Alternator- 220 amp Iraggi
    References: CA.com- Digital B, mtdewelf, SBLAZER, tuckerbucket, GaresTaylan, basebalz13




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    Re: Looking to feed each door 150 watts in my 2500HD

    is there a reason why your getting rear speakers? i think that money may be better spent on a really good set of fronts



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    SkwurlyFab's Avatar
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    Re: Looking to feed each door 150 watts in my 2500HD

    because we will be parking the truck with all 4 doors open to let all the sound out at events and shows. $300 won't get me a good set of fronts these days??? I just wanna get another pair to match in the back!



    Headunit- Kenwood KDC-MP928
    Components- 4 Alpine SPR-17LS 6.5" Type R's
    Sub- 18" TC-5200
    Component Amp- JL Audio 300/4
    Sub Amp- Orion HCCA-D5000 at .7 ohms
    Wiring- All Stinger HPM Series, Big 3
    Enclosure- 3.2 cubes @ 28hz
    Battery- Optima Yellow Top
    Alternator- 220 amp Iraggi
    References: CA.com- Digital B, mtdewelf, SBLAZER, tuckerbucket, GaresTaylan, basebalz13

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    Re: Looking to feed each door 150 watts in my 2500HD

    you need to pull out all that BOSE crap and then deaden your doors. If you wanting to have a show/demo truck and want to be LOUD you could run 4 sets of comps. Basically 2 mids and tweets per door. = 2 ohms @ 150 RMS. So go look for some components that do 75rms and are pretty affordable. This should match the subs your getting so... You say you want 12, what kind? Alpine type S comps are in that range...




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    WrenchGuy's Avatar
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    Re: Looking to feed each door 150 watts in my 2500HD

    2 5.25's will fit the current grill in your front doors and then do a 6.5 in the rear doors.

    the 5.25's will get you screechin with little modification




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    Re: Looking to feed each door 150 watts in my 2500HD

    How much work does it take to fit a set of 6.5's in the stock doors of my Chevy? I'll be deadening each door and sealing it up to get the best sound possible.

    Right now I have a JL 300/4 sitting right next to me. I need to figure out what set of speakers I want to put up front so I can throw 150w at each one and see if I like it or not!

    **** the Bose speaker system BTW. I've got it hooked up to my Kenwood DNX-8120 and it crackles and pops like a mother****er with the GM adaptor. can't get it to stop and we've made sure there are no loose ends or bare wires anywhere twice now.

    I know that'll stop once the whole Onstar/Bose **** is bypassed and the signal goes straight from the HU to the amp to the speakers.

    I still don't know what to get but I'll post up when I get it put in and let you guys know how it sounds!



    Headunit- Kenwood KDC-MP928
    Components- 4 Alpine SPR-17LS 6.5" Type R's
    Sub- 18" TC-5200
    Component Amp- JL Audio 300/4
    Sub Amp- Orion HCCA-D5000 at .7 ohms
    Wiring- All Stinger HPM Series, Big 3
    Enclosure- 3.2 cubes @ 28hz
    Battery- Optima Yellow Top
    Alternator- 220 amp Iraggi
    References: CA.com- Digital B, mtdewelf, SBLAZER, tuckerbucket, GaresTaylan, basebalz13

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    Re: Looking to feed each door 150 watts in my 2500HD

    Earthquake V-teks and they are only $150 ish per set.




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    Re: Looking to feed each door 150 watts in my 2500HD

    I will sell you 2 of these for 600 shipped. Last set you will need. They get VERY loud and stay perfectly clear. If you want you can feed these 200 RMS all day long

    CDT Audio HD-62CF Carbon Fiber 6.5" Component Set - Vertex Audio



    Team Cactus Sounds, Team SHOK elite, Team Second Skin, Team Mechman, Team XS power, Team Sundown

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    Quote Originally Posted by mayo_bryan View Post
    i saw david's work , impressed !!!!
    Quote Originally Posted by Loudman View Post
    And so were the judges!!!:lol: Sorry man, that was so insensitive of me!! I've been there before!!

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    Re: Looking to feed each door 150 watts in my 2500HD

    I've heard of CDT before, always good things but they have so many different speakers I never could figure out what to go with.

    I've never heard of the Earthquakes but I'll check em out I guess.

    Seems like a lot of people on this forum like those ID 6.5's as well. But a lot of people also say the tweets are harsh at high levels so it's tough to choose.

    6.5's in front and 6.5's in rear doors will fit in an 04 Chevy 2500hd though? I don't want to have to chop anything up, I need to be able to return it to stock and put the Bose Speakers back in for whenever I sell it down the road.

    I will be dampening all the doors during the speaker install. We'll dampen the roof floor and rest of the cab when the subs get installed later on down the road.



    Headunit- Kenwood KDC-MP928
    Components- 4 Alpine SPR-17LS 6.5" Type R's
    Sub- 18" TC-5200
    Component Amp- JL Audio 300/4
    Sub Amp- Orion HCCA-D5000 at .7 ohms
    Wiring- All Stinger HPM Series, Big 3
    Enclosure- 3.2 cubes @ 28hz
    Battery- Optima Yellow Top
    Alternator- 220 amp Iraggi
    References: CA.com- Digital B, mtdewelf, SBLAZER, tuckerbucket, GaresTaylan, basebalz13

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    Re: Looking to feed each door 150 watts in my 2500HD

    The ID tweeter were not harsh to me especially the model up from the CTX, but both were pretty good to me.
    The CTX are a steal at $180 per set and they will get pretty loud.

    What year is you 2500?




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    Re: Looking to feed each door 150 watts in my 2500HD

    It's a 2004 crew cab with the 4 full size doors.

    Those carbon fiber CDT's look ****** and have got some good reviews I did a little research and people seem stoked on them!

    Do you think 150 watts to each one is enough to get em singing when the RMS is 200 watts?

    Each pair of speakers will be powered by it's own JL 300/4 amp.



    Headunit- Kenwood KDC-MP928
    Components- 4 Alpine SPR-17LS 6.5" Type R's
    Sub- 18" TC-5200
    Component Amp- JL Audio 300/4
    Sub Amp- Orion HCCA-D5000 at .7 ohms
    Wiring- All Stinger HPM Series, Big 3
    Enclosure- 3.2 cubes @ 28hz
    Battery- Optima Yellow Top
    Alternator- 220 amp Iraggi
    References: CA.com- Digital B, mtdewelf, SBLAZER, tuckerbucket, GaresTaylan, basebalz13

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    Re: Looking to feed each door 150 watts in my 2500HD

    Replied to your PM



    Team Cactus Sounds, Team SHOK elite, Team Second Skin, Team Mechman, Team XS power, Team Sundown

    Team GroundShakaz (MECA team I started)

    Quote Originally Posted by mayo_bryan View Post
    i saw david's work , impressed !!!!
    Quote Originally Posted by Loudman View Post
    And so were the judges!!!:lol: Sorry man, that was so insensitive of me!! I've been there before!!

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    SkwurlyFab's Avatar
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    Re: Looking to feed each door 150 watts in my 2500HD

    I think I'm gonna have to pick some of those carbon fiber babies up! I will let you know by the end of the night for sure thanks for all the help everyone.



    Headunit- Kenwood KDC-MP928
    Components- 4 Alpine SPR-17LS 6.5" Type R's
    Sub- 18" TC-5200
    Component Amp- JL Audio 300/4
    Sub Amp- Orion HCCA-D5000 at .7 ohms
    Wiring- All Stinger HPM Series, Big 3
    Enclosure- 3.2 cubes @ 28hz
    Battery- Optima Yellow Top
    Alternator- 220 amp Iraggi
    References: CA.com- Digital B, mtdewelf, SBLAZER, tuckerbucket, GaresTaylan, basebalz13

  14. #14
    SkwurlyFab's Avatar
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    Re: Looking to feed each door 150 watts in my 2500HD

    Definitely going to run with the carbon fibre CDT's now. The more I stare at them online the more I like them.

    Since so many people are opposed to running a second set of comps in the rear doors, I was wondering if it would make any sense to put some 6.5" midbass drivers in the rear doors instead of another set of comps.

    I've never heard of anyone doing this but if it really is pointless to add a second set of comps to the rear and the front comps will be loud enough off 150 watts a piece, why not throw some mids in the rear doors to fill out that mid bass range of frequencies?

    If I'm off my rocker on this one and it just won't sound right feel free to let me know. But if you have done this before or have heard a similar set up please post up with your opinion!

    Dammit now I'm never going to make up my mind lol



    Headunit- Kenwood KDC-MP928
    Components- 4 Alpine SPR-17LS 6.5" Type R's
    Sub- 18" TC-5200
    Component Amp- JL Audio 300/4
    Sub Amp- Orion HCCA-D5000 at .7 ohms
    Wiring- All Stinger HPM Series, Big 3
    Enclosure- 3.2 cubes @ 28hz
    Battery- Optima Yellow Top
    Alternator- 220 amp Iraggi
    References: CA.com- Digital B, mtdewelf, SBLAZER, tuckerbucket, GaresTaylan, basebalz13

  15. #15
    galacticmonkey's Avatar
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    Re: Looking to feed each door 150 watts in my 2500HD

    Ever think of some nice pro audio 6s? If you get a reputable brand and install and tune correctly, they sound great and will be super loud.




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