I had my Type R 6.5 components installed today and the mid bass response ***** ***, Is it true that sealing the door and using dynomat + defelx pad will help improve my midbass response?
I had my Type R 6.5 components installed today and the mid bass response ***** ***, Is it true that sealing the door and using dynomat + defelx pad will help improve my midbass response?
Nope. Components sound better with plastic baffles and holes galore...
I shot out muh mom's vag with bossing papers in hand.
Indeed.
I have a 95 Impala and there are alot of openings and holes in the door... would it be better to just dynomat the door or seal up all the holes using plexi glass?
lol yea plastic adds teh bass.![]()
HU: Alpine 9887
Subs: 4x SA10s
Amp:Audioque 3500.1 at .5
^^ lol, sound deaden your doors and let us know what you think.... should sound heaps better
I was trying to avoid this but looks like i'm going to have to do it. My stock 4x6's had better mid-bass response![]()
amped
entirely likely...with more powerful drivers you could easily see a drop in perceived volume due to your door vibrating out of phase with the driver and causing massive cancellation. I noticed this when I first swapped out my rainbow germaniums for power line CS's. If the x-over was set low (60hz or under) the entire door vibrated so badly that it sounded worse than if the x-over was set to ~100hz - and not just due to buzzing and rattling - it just sounded wrong. After proper deadening and sealing of the door, they produce plenty of volume all the way down to 60hz.
Eclipse CD7000 - RioCar Empeg 3
Rainbow Powerline CS 275.27 / Arc Audio 4150 XXK (Woofers) - Arc Audio 2100 XXK (Tweeters)
Rainbow Vanadium 12 x2 / Arc Audio 1500 XXK
Originally Posted by TEAM HAMMER
Originally Posted by bdawson72
REFS: Integra2468 orangecounty1 marcotheclepto RJesus AmpJunkieLikeMe
Old Set-ups: 2 W7's, 2 L7's, 1 Solo X, 3 Type R's, 2 15's CVX's, 2 PPI DCX's, 2 W3V2's, 1 15 Type R,
Soon to Come: 2 12 HDC3's & Memphis 2500.1
also type R components are know for ****** midbass I believe.
but deaden your doors and see if it helps
HU: Pioneer 880-prs
Mid/High Amp: MB Quart DSC4125
Front Stage: PG mids/Vifa tweets running active
Sub Amp: DD Z1
Sub: 10" Mach 5 SPL/Hybrid 1.25ft^3 @ 38hz
DC Power Alt
REFS: Integra2468 orangecounty1 marcotheclepto RJesus AmpJunkieLikeMe
Old Set-ups: 2 W7's, 2 L7's, 1 Solo X, 3 Type R's, 2 15's CVX's, 2 PPI DCX's, 2 W3V2's, 1 15 Type R,
Soon to Come: 2 12 HDC3's & Memphis 2500.1
HU: Alpine 9884
Front Stage: Alpine SPR-17s components(passive)
Rear Fill: 6" Pioneer coaxials (running off HU)
Sub: 1 12" FI BL custom slot ported enclosure tuned to 34 hz
Amp for front stage: MB Quart PAB2100
Amp for Subs: Hifonics Bxi 1606d
Wiring: Knukonceptz 0 gauge
Big 3: Knukonceptz 0 gauge
all in an 02 Mitsubishi Lancer OZ Rally
136.3 at 45 hz ( severe voltage drops)
deaden doors, get mdf rings.
/thread
Refs: lyttle viet, 2002XLT, alxmlr789, BushJ311, scottiej, vitveet, Goindef154, vic713, {:C:}, the dude, dbaudio, mr_kebo, tristanmay, 2000LaDe, AQsrt4 (on tennis-warehouse.com - dafobbishon3), (Ebay - dafobbishon3)
Substage:Custom 15 by Ssackett : Audiopipe AP1800.1D
-3 hard spiders, woven tinsels, 8 layer flat wound coil, 12 spoke basket
Enclosure: 3.5 cubes @ 32 hz (compliments of vitveet)
Frontstage: Hertz HSK165 : Arc KS300.2
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