Well ok. Yesterday my amp cut out while I was riding to work. When I got off I powered it up again and had sound only from my right components. Fifteen minutes of music caused the right midwoofer to go out, so I am stuck with just the highs from the tweeters. I've measured the amp with my voltmeter and its output voltage is correct.
Here's the weird thing. When I removed my panels my midwoofers were "stuck" in their position and it required a bit of force on my part to unstick the cone from the motor I'm guessing. The speakers are dead. When I send it a 1khz tone the volume is wavering and breaks up at my normal listening volume(loud, teehee.) Eventually either the amp shuts off and the diagnostic light turns on, or the driver begins to smoke. I sent it a 100Hz tone and all I get is a bzzzz sound and the amp quickly goes off into diagnostic error mode. Obviously these speakers are dead, that is not too big of a problem because they only cost me a hundred bucks shipped from woofersetc. My parents *****ing and my lack of installation knowledge caused me to get 5.25" drivers so I'm not really too angry, I really want 6.5's heh. But really, I'd like to know what you think caused this? Could it be the small amount of water(I'm talking about just several droplets on the back of the magnet and in the general area near where the speaker is mounted?) Or do you think I was just overpowering the speakers and they naturally died? I mean, if they died due to being overpowered, I find it incredibly difficult that they would do so so close in time to one another. Ive been running these speakers for 2 months and find it hard to believe that if they were to die without outside influence other than the signal itself, they would die at times not so soon together.
If you think it's the water, would it make sense for me to go with a different type of cone on my next pair of speakers. They were CDT-s50 and had treated paper cones. Is this not durable enough to survive in the humid environment of houston, texas? I'm just a bit confused and don't want the same thing to happen when I replace the speakers.
I might as well get this in this thread so I don't have to post another. When I do replace these speakers, I need some help on ideas to improve my midbass. I'd like a more smooth transition from subbass to midbass in my car. I am running 2 12w3v3 @ 26Hz with a JL 500/1. I have a cadence z800 that can put 2 x 125 watts @ 4ohms or 2 x 225 watts @ 2ohms. If I were to run a 3-way system, could I run the midbass driver in parallel to the midwoofer and tweeter(in series I presume?) so the amp sees a 2ohm load and splits the 225watts between the midbass and the midwoofer + tweeter? Or does it not work like that? Would I have to go with 3-way components to even have a chance of getting a somewhat even and linear curve between sub and midbass? Should I just build a sealed box and cross my subs higher? I have them at ~85Hz at 24dB/octave with my (now dead)5.25" drivers. Sorry for all the questions!
Oh yeah. I would like to say that I would prefer to have my bass guitar sounding like it is coming from the front of the soundstage. As soon as I cross my subs higher than 85Hz @ 24db/oct it seems as if the bass guitar no longer has that presence in the front. This seems weird because I was under the impression that sound <250Hz is omnidirectional. arggg