6.5" vs 8" for midbass???

[heyman421]

Would 4 6.5" drivers or 2 8" drivers be a better candidate for midbass reproduction to COMLIMENT a pair of sealed 15" L7's (not replace)

I'm guessing the 8's could ultimately have more OUTPUT, but wondering if 6.5's wouldn't be better suited for frequencies stretching toward the upper end of midbass (~200hz or so)

so which would you go with for reproducing 55-200hz in a daily driver

thanks

[Twistid]

55hz is a little low for "midbass" imo

[LoudCrownVic]

4 6's... depending on the kind.

[helotaxi]

If properly enclosed, there is no reason that a midbass worthy of the name shouldn't have usable extension down into the 55hz region. Likewise driver diameter is not the determining factor for high frequency extension either, that is a product of voicecoil Le. Again a midbass should easily be able to extend well past 200Hz on the upper end. If you can fit an 8, that would be my preference. It should be a woofer not a sub woofer as most subwoofers have relatively high Le values and lose out on the high end as a result.

[FoxPro5]

55hz is a little low for "midbass" imo

Why? I have mine at 53hz....and you could swear I have sub in my engine compartment The are 6.5" drivers too. How you ask? Simple....deaden the **** out of your doors and seal them up real tight!!

[heyman421]

ok, am i to understand it just depends on the driver?

and even tho i only want to play to 200hz i should use a midrange speaker, opposed to a subwoofer?

And my final question, is if i wanted to use a 6.5 or 8 to play down to 55hz or 60hz, would i be better off using a dome-style midrange than a cone-style midrange? Are the cone style speakers more to do double duty, with midrange + midbass response?

Sorry it's taking me so long to reply, i just moved wednesday and thursday, and don't have the internet going at my new place yet. I probably wont be back on here until work on monday, but i'll be back....

[helotaxi]

If you want to run a dome mid, you will need a midbass that can go up above 1kHz not just to 200Hz. The reasons to run a dome mid are to provide better off axis response and allow a higher mid tweet crossover point. A small mid range would need a dedicated midbass regardless of whether it was a cone or a dome although the cone will extend an octave or two lower usually at the cost of the upper range. Cone style midranges are usually used to get more output because of the larger transducer area. The larger tranducer makes for a lower Fs and the ability to play lower but that doesn't make all cone drivers midbasses.

[thadman]

you will get nasty comb filtering by running 2 6.5s vs 1 8...baddd

RS225s for midbass paired with a Peerless Exclusive 4 or 5.5 or even a Diyma 2" if u want a dome (it can do 300hz)

[thadman]

for a monopole speaker, 375cm^3 of displacement is required to reach 110dB @ 80hz

[helotaxi]

for a monopole speaker, 375cm^3 of displacement is required to reach 110dB @ 80hz

Large or small room?

[thadman]

1 meter away

[helotaxi]

So no room effect transfer function. Doesn't take that much in-car. The small space of the car cabin will amplify he lower freqs. Its much easier to get bass in a car because of that. The in car problem is usually in the 150Hz range where there is typically a cancellation node.

If you go to the trouble of equalizing the pathlengths of the drivers on same side, you can run 2 6s without worrying about comb filtering any more than you do with a pair of drivers mounted on opposite sides of the car.

[T3mpest]

yeah, door distances are a *****.... Screwed me in my last car for a while. Like 8db's down at 160 somethhing.

Anyway, the 8's would be my choice. 2 channels of amplification, less point sources, overall it's just easier, and will probably end up playing lower. KISS (keep it simple stupid)

[heyman421]

awesome guys, lots of help here

so now i understand the purposes of domes vs. cones, but there must be a distinct sound difference between the two, am i wrong? Which of the two do most people prefer? All i've ever heard before are cones (which i'm running now)

Domes could actually be a more attractive option for me, since i could build some sort of structure to hold a tweeter and a dome-midrange in the a-pillars (a la gauge pods) and then be able to use the entire door to cook up some sort of IB install for a single 8" midbass for each of the front doors....

The original reason i wanted to be able to hit 55hz is because with my L7's in their 4.5cf each ported box @ 33hz, output was DEAD by 60hz.

My plan (going more toward SQ if you can't tell) is to seal the L7's for the best possible transient response) once i have the new enclosure made, i'll figure out where output starts dying before investing in new components for the fronts.

Is there a good all-in-one x-over setup anyone's running? I'm going to end up going active for my tweets, midranges, and midbasses, and my kenwood's not equipped to go active, so i need to come up with a 3rd set of channels somehow.

I'd really like to steer-clear of just building crossovers, since i want tweakability and full-range adjustability on my x-overs, is there anyone that can point me in the right direction for what i'll need? And i'll end up buying a small 2-channel amp to power my tweets, but i need a x-over network to divide up the frequency ranges to GET them to the amps, since most amps only have a small band of adjustability (50-200hz or so for the high/low pass)

Thanks again guys, lots of help.

And again, i don't have the internet yet at my place, so i'll check back in tomorrow.

[T3mpest]

depends on budget, p9 combo or h701 are very nice choices for a midline to high budget. Even a slightly lower end pioneer can do 3 way. Honestly, most people haven't heard domes. Biggest advantage is off axis response, but they won't play that low. Frankly, I'd stay away from domes, they can be very tricky to dial in, even with a lot of processing you need quite a bit of install+tuning to really make them shine. Not saying they are bad, but unless you really have a use for them and can take full advantage, conventional drivers are easier.