Let me finish posting all the pics. hope this works
Thought I would share my kick building project. If you **** at fiber glassing and making it look good, like I do, this will be very helpful. I have good sized plastic kick panels on my Maxima. I thought I would use them to keep the stock appearance around the trim and use the stock mounting points. I am not going into all the details, but wanted to show my technique. It was very easy to get a really good finish without doing a lot of sanding, etc. I won’t show all the finish work like painting, Bondo work or sealing. This took me about 5 hours in total, not including drying time.
A must tool for this project is a Dremmel (sp) tool. I bought one brand new for $10 on sale, with all the attachments. You will especially need the cut off tool. Use safety glasses unless you want to find out what a broken bit does at 5000 rpm.
Here we go.
1) Using the stock plastic kick panel, I set the location of the speaker. Cut a hole large enough to mount the magnet though. It doesn’t need to be pretty as this will be all covered. Don’t make it too big as you want to preserve the stiffness of the plastic. Don’t cut the stock mounting points for reattachment.
2) Cut a piece of 3/8 plywood to the hole size for the speaker and any extra you might need for a grill. It doesn’t need to be that thick as it will be reinforced later. Mount the “ring” of wood to the plastic kick panel any way possible (epoxy), setting the angle you want and checking the depth of the speaker in the car so it has lots of room to spare for the magnet, around 1”. Doesn’t need to be pretty or that strong.
3a/b) Using an old pair of woman’s nylons (finally a good use for nylons), stretch them over your assembly. It conforms just amazingly to any shape as opposed to using felt. It is so thin and stretchy it won’t “bulk out” the existing framework. Make it as tight as possible without warping the plastic, otherwise you will get some wrinkles (see later). I used needle and thread on the back side to tie it tight and make it conform to all the angles of the plastic. It only needs to be pretty on the front side.
4) (Not a great picture) Now “lightly” fiberglass epoxy the nylon all over the front side, making sure to join the wood and plastic to the nylon. It doesn’t need to be that strong, just enough to hold the shape. I used too much epoxy and hadn’t pulled the nylon tight in places, so I got some wrinkles from the weight of the epoxy. Experience will fix this.
5a/b) Using a Dremmel and utility knife, cut away the nylon on the back and speaker hole. Now enlarge the hole in the plastic, close to where the nylon joins it. Remove the temporary wood bracing as much as you can. You should be left with a shell. The nylon should hold the plastic ridged enough and the wood ring in place
6a/b) Since the nylon will not be strong enough to withstand being “kicked”, or if you are using big speakers. Fiberglass the back side where you won’t see it. It doesn’t need to be pretty, just strong. The nylons previously, made the perfect shape. Join it to the wood and plastic. On the front it looks no different.
7) Cut back the excess fiber glass
8) Finished product. Stock appearance! Held in place with all the stock mounting hardware. Once I fill in the wrinkles and paint, they will look really good. I will make another post on how I made them “sealed”.