I'm gonna run a BRZ2100 to my pair of 10s
I've used Hifonics and love them, they may hit rated at full tilt, but it isn't like the more expensive amps that will do it cleanly. I would never run one to full-tilt because I wouldn't trust the signal being clean enough to keep the sub safe.
I've also never clamped one, but I've heard the difference of many different 1200W Amps on the exact same set-up and the Hifonics was lacking.
97 4runner, 3RZ, 5 Speed
Headunit: Pioneer DEH-P9800BT
Mids: Pioneer ????
Tweets: CDT DRT-25
Fronts Amp: Memphis M-Class 4x50
Sub Amp: Diamond D3 400.1
Substage: 2x 12" Dayton HO's
Electrical: 160 Amp Alt, Kinetik HC2400, Interstate DCM0100, 2/0 Throughout
i dont know about all that.. I run a brz2400 at .5 (used to at 1 as well) and it just slams.. maybe your amp was just a dud.. I've heard a fair share of amps.. kicker zx2500.. rf2500.. and i can tell no difference
no clamp personally so I cant say for sure.. but it was the best $300 ive spent on any car audio purchase to date
Headunit - Stock cassette player - Pioneer P9400
Front Stage - Pyle 8 inch subs (1000 watt peak!!) - Polk DB6.5 (about to be CDT 6.5s)
Rear stage - Deleted (stolen) - Deleted
Sub stage - custom built 15 inch sony xplod (5k watt peak!!!) (huge box) - Two SA12's built by Corey
Sub amp - Pyle 8000w peak!! (spl edition) - AQ2200
Electircal - 35 amp alt from ford festiva upgrade, stolen battery, 28 gauge solder coil for my cable - Dual D34 Yellows, 1/0 trystar OFC, 135amp alt
You can give that sub 2000 watts RMS if you wanted to, as long as you adjust the gain so that no distortion is heard. I would give it 800-1000 RMS though, as long as you don't have it on full blast for long periods of time because then it could possibly melt the voice coil due to the excessive wattage but it should be fine if you set the gains on the amp correctly.
Headunit - Stock cassette player - Pioneer P9400
Front Stage - Pyle 8 inch subs (1000 watt peak!!) - Polk DB6.5 (about to be CDT 6.5s)
Rear stage - Deleted (stolen) - Deleted
Sub stage - custom built 15 inch sony xplod (5k watt peak!!!) (huge box) - Two SA12's built by Corey
Sub amp - Pyle 8000w peak!! (spl edition) - AQ2200
Electircal - 35 amp alt from ford festiva upgrade, stolen battery, 28 gauge solder coil for my cable - Dual D34 Yellows, 1/0 trystar OFC, 135amp alt
Headunit - Stock cassette player - Pioneer P9400
Front Stage - Pyle 8 inch subs (1000 watt peak!!) - Polk DB6.5 (about to be CDT 6.5s)
Rear stage - Deleted (stolen) - Deleted
Sub stage - custom built 15 inch sony xplod (5k watt peak!!!) (huge box) - Two SA12's built by Corey
Sub amp - Pyle 8000w peak!! (spl edition) - AQ2200
Electircal - 35 amp alt from ford festiva upgrade, stolen battery, 28 gauge solder coil for my cable - Dual D34 Yellows, 1/0 trystar OFC, 135amp alt
Headunit - Stock cassette player - Pioneer P9400
Front Stage - Pyle 8 inch subs (1000 watt peak!!) - Polk DB6.5 (about to be CDT 6.5s)
Rear stage - Deleted (stolen) - Deleted
Sub stage - custom built 15 inch sony xplod (5k watt peak!!!) (huge box) - Two SA12's built by Corey
Sub amp - Pyle 8000w peak!! (spl edition) - AQ2200
Electircal - 35 amp alt from ford festiva upgrade, stolen battery, 28 gauge solder coil for my cable - Dual D34 Yellows, 1/0 trystar OFC, 135amp alt
Refs- DiabolicBass, nismos14,IonSQL,massiveaudiocw,sxpimpin,sundownz,8 7gr, nissan,Louie68,Tips,Trell,integra88,Ellsworthz,bas ebalz13,lil98cabrio,woofercooker,pro-rabbit,Louisiana_CRX,MANTI5,eL_wEEnIe,bubbagumper6 ,jco1385,95saturn,ace_800,micah_jones,assassin1840 ,beat-down69,RAM_Designs,whitedragon551,KTMrida4life
Yeah, gunna call BS on that...never heard of anybody sending that much to them, esp daily driver with music vs/ test tone.
Underrated is one thing, putting 2k on a 600WRMS sub and expecting them to take it is just idiotic.
That being said, I am putting two of the VVX-12 d2s in my daily driver soon, and will be confident in sending each 750-800WRMS , consistently.... wouldn't sweat burping them upwards of another 200-400, but alot of that feeling of being safe is in knowing you have clean power along with a correctly built enclosure, gains correctly set, known box rise, etc, etc.
Refs: adamtwo4, basscort2009, burzendowski, clanassa, cthedinger, ikoolguy, its_bacon12, Jew_Bagel, jr711, kreapin, kowboy, Rudy, TheRealDefman, Winter_C
HU:Eclipse CD7200 MkII
Subs: Fack Skar Audio
Front comps: HAT Clarus C61-2 off Sony ES 7547
Electrical: C&D batt, Big 3 with 1/0, 4ga to amps, Stinger RCA’s
Damping: 60mil FG panels over holes, full worx from SDS
There is a DSO Nano rental thread on here so you can measure your amp's output signal. TBH you don't really need an o-scope or anything like that unless you really want to squeeze every watt out of your amp. Set your gains with a DMM for 800w using a 50hz -3dB test tone and you'll be good to go. Small changes in power will hardly effect the volume, so you may not hear much between 800-1000w, and consequently your sub will just heat up more.
Bookmarks