Review of: Quick Start's F1-6G-HD200
Ever had a task that was so difficult, so daunting that you thought you could never do it?
Replacing my alternator was not one of those tasks
on a scale of one to ten, one being breathing, five being an oil change and ten being building an engine, I rate this project a 2: seriously, this was easier than changing my oil.
First off, an alternator is a device that generates alternating electrical current and uses a series of diodes and rectifiers to convert the AC to DC.
most modern cars need at least 100 amps to run (alternator out put is measured in amps)
the original alt on my car was rated at 110 amps: I got one that is rated at 200 with a heavy duty rectifier. When I called Quick Start, I actually spoke to someone who knows what he is talking about: great information.
The Quick Start F1-6G-HD200 features:
Bearings that are the exact OEM standard and, in my experience top of the line made in Canada
70 amp rectifier diodes as opposed to OEM 55 amp diodes
Solid copper heat sink
Made in the USA
Heat kills electronics hence the copper heat sink and the #1 thing that fails on an alternator is the diodes which is why this model uses over specified diodes.
I got the alternator 9 days after placing the order: I placed it on the 10th it was shipped on the 14th and I got it on the 19th: if anything, the slow turnaround was disappointing.
the alt came in a plain box labeled "Alternator"
I was hoping their alts were better than their boxes.
the first thing I did after removing it from the box, was look for the copper rectifiers:
no: literally COOL: copper does everything the alternator man says: conducts heat and electricity better than the standard OE aluminum.
I wanted to get started but I was running out of daylight: I had less than 2 and a half hours to get it done and I had no idea how long it would take me:
I did some research on the web and found a great site that showed step by step how to do the swap...
but these guys were pros: and I know that they can make it look easy....
I decided to at least get the belt off and finish the rest the next morning so I took pictures of how the belt was strung around the engine and located the belt tensioner.
I saw that you could fit a 3/4 socket in it but I had doubts as to how easy it would be to simultaneously pull on it and remove the belt
I got the socket in and tested it out:
slick as snot!!
Why did I ever doubt Ford Engineers!
so I slipped off the belt with ease!
there were bolts and wires that had to be removed and I was still doubting that I could get it done in time:
sure removal was fast but I am all too familiar with Murphy's law: so, as so as I removed the old alt, I compared the size:
the bigger, newer one kinda tapers at the rear: I just hope it fits in there!
WOW! the monkey loving alternator slipped in perfectly!
I quickly tightened the six bolts and slipped the belt back on and VOILA!
newly installed alternator!
SHUT THE FRONT DOOR!!
it only took less than 10 minuets for the install!
I knew that I could potentially cause major damage if I installed anything incorrectly or, worse yet:
I could fry my whole electrical system if the alternator was incompatible!
the proof would be in starting the engine:
I was giving up a theoretical 4 or 6 horse power by installing the amp (alternators use 4 hp per 100 amps):
...would the belt just tear to shreds?
...would there be belt slippage?
...would my sound system be fried?
Well here goes!
*turns the key*
Yowza: it works!
rev that engine
Impressions on the new alternator:
my sound system sounds WAY better at moderate to high volumes!
..details that were missing are all there!
seriously: I was hearing sounds in familiar music that I have NEVER heard before!
second: my low end engine response was IMPROVED!
I guess that the extra electrical power at low RPMs allows the already awesome COP ignition system to fire and burn gas more efficiently:
rather than LOSING 4 to 6 horse power:
I feel like I GAINED 4 to 6!
You might ask why I did not install a new belt when I installed the new alternator:
that's a fair question:
I did not change the belt because if I installed it incorrectly, I would not be out a new belt: besides: that belt is my original one with over 170k 118k miles on it: I'm kinda attached!
not to worry: I'm going to change it.
I did some research and found out that a lot of people like the Goodyear gatorback belt but Ford drivers in cold weather experience some slippage...
I'm not in cold weather so I opted for the gatorback:
I also instaled a new 1/0 gauge wire that goes straight from the alternator to the battery:
I had the parts lying around: I just never got around to it....
There was some hand wringing about how the belt was strung around the pulleys: I know, I know: I took pictures....
The Ford OE Motorcraft belt was still going strong with no signs of cracking with 118,106 miles on it!
Just like the alternator install, the belt went on with no problems
if you have have a Ford modular engine, 10 minuets and $340 and want to add 90 more amperes then go get yourself an upgrade from Quick Start!
It has been five months since I have done the install and I have not regretted doing it till now
let me explain:
Back then I was running a PPI PCX480 and a PCX2200: the lights would dim ever so slightly at really high volumes.
I have now replaced the PCX2200 with a JL 1000/1v2 and am waiting on two JL 12W3v3-8 to run with the amp:
I believe that the 1000/1 will draw considerably more amperage and I'll have dimming lights at retardedly high volumes. The saving grace is how the new alternator is made with copper heat sinks and heavy duty rectifier diodes.
stay tuned for my report!