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    Techydrone's Avatar
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    Icon32 Box build

    Planning on a build with a crescendo d5500, (or taramps 8k) 2 kinetic hc-2000 blu batteries, interstate batterie in the front. Big 3 and multiple grounds in the back, and 2 psi p-3 15s. That's the list for the back, haven't decided on the front. It's gonna take me a long time. Trying to do all my research ahead of time, what I'm wanting to know (it's the last piece of the puzzle) how do I plan for a c pillar wall. How do I decide what to cut. What cubic feet. What will work in my space. I'm thinking of something like this picture but with the subs up top. And a beauty panel with mids an tweets in it. But I'm really bad at math and comprehending things Without A visual representation. Thanks ahead of time








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    Re: Box build

    Hit up buck designs if he's still doing them or cscstang if he's around. Box designers are getting harder to find but there's a thread here 65 pages long showing you exactly why it pays to spend a few bucks on a design. For two 15s on that kinda power a 8-9cft box tuned to taste would get down and could do subs up port back and get good results. I'd go 18s if your set on a wall. Personally in a SUV two 15s walled us kinda a waste unless it's a little truck like a Kia Soul or something tiny. And keep your speakers up front don't waste them with rear fill. I mean to each their own.




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    Re: Box build

    close lol it's a Kia sorento. Right now I'm doing two fosgate p2s at 38 hz speakers an port back on a skar 2k and it slaps pretty good for what it is




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    Re: Box build

    I wasn't thinking a full wall per say. A box with speakers forward port at the top an a panel around to make it appear as such. But subs up port back would be alot more in my skill range




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    Re: Box build

    Quote Originally Posted by Techydrone View Post
    Planning on a build with a crescendo d5500, (or taramps 8k) 2 kinetic hc-2000 blu batteries, interstate batterie in the front. Big 3 and multiple grounds in the back, and 2 psi p-3 15s. That's the list for the back, haven't decided on the front. It's gonna take me a long time. Trying to do all my research ahead of time, what I'm wanting to know (it's the last piece of the puzzle) how do I plan for a c pillar wall. How do I decide what to cut. What cubic feet. What will work in my space. I'm thinking of something like this picture but with the subs up top. And a beauty panel with mids an tweets in it. But I'm really bad at math and comprehending things Without A visual representation. Thanks ahead of time

    What vehicle? Best bet is to go out and gather up some big cardboard boxes and some tape and mock up a box in the back and take some measurements. Unless it's a pretty small vehicle you may do as well or better with just a normal box for only 2 15s. Most any SUV you can get 8-10 cube for just a regular box.


    Quote Originally Posted by Lbetts818 View Post
    there's a thread here 65 pages long showing you exactly why it pays to spend a few bucks on a design.
    His first attempt was a design he paid for and just flopped with the execution.

    Better advice would be to know your limitiations and take whatever you're not comfortable with to a professional.




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    Re: Box build

    if you aren't investing in a high output alternator you are loosing a good deal of output. skip the kinetiks.
    Id do a pair of batteries in the rear and run a 4GA wire to the original factory wiring.



    Insidious Audio

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    Re: Box build

    I'm lost I'm not understanding what your saying. I already have 1 run of 0 gauge ofc skyhigh running to the front. And 1 ground bolted to the frame attached to my second battery. (Yes it's not made to be in the car yes I understand a 70 pound block of acid flying in an accident scenario is a bad idea, no I don't have the money to do something about it atm) but. When it comes time, buying 1050 worth of subs and $550 to $1160 of amp (depending on which I get) and building a massive box plus all the extra wiring and the big 3. Isn't going to leave much room to squeeze in a 650$ alternator but your saying skip the batteries, but going right back and saying get a pair. I'm lost.




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    Re: Box build

    A boat battery up front, big 3, and two kinetics grounded to the frame with positives ran up front should be plenty of power if I avoid long sessions. I usually baby my subs anyways and hardly turn them up so they hold there value better




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    Re: Box build

    Quote Originally Posted by Techydrone View Post
    I'm lost I'm not understanding what your saying. I already have 1 run of 0 gauge ofc skyhigh running to the front. And 1 ground bolted to the frame attached to my second battery. (Yes it's not made to be in the car yes I understand a 70 pound block of acid flying in an accident scenario is a bad idea, no I don't have the money to do something about it atm) but. When it comes time, buying 1050 worth of subs and $550 to $1160 of amp (depending on which I get) and building a massive box plus all the extra wiring and the big 3. Isn't going to leave much room to squeeze in a 650$ alternator but your saying skip the batteries, but going right back and saying get a pair. I'm lost.
    if you can't afford the alternator and two batteries just get the alternator. if you go with just batteries put them close to the device that draws the most current.



    Insidious Audio

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    Re: Box build

    That does make more since. I was thinking a taramps 8k but I'd have to go all out to achieve that steady voltage. Hence why I bumped up to CT. Reliability. Now I'm thinking if I just got it and threw the rest at and alt and just one upgraded battery it's Ballance itself out. There's just no way to make a decision on all this fml




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    Re: Box build

    I'm just scared that amps gonna go poof with my hopes and dreams from simple vibration. Reviews are two sided




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    Re: Box build

    and you are a fool to spend 1k on an amp and not spend 350 to 400 on a alt.
    you could get a decent 3kw and more efficient woofers.

    the manufactures only make it because people buy it. you don't need 6kw to get 150.
    a solid 3kw on 2 efficient well designed 15s will get you low 150s.
    example

    SSD Series - SSD15 | Fi Car Audio
    flat wound coil and cooling 760
    SSA Store - Twisted Sounds TS2.8KW (TS2.8KW)
    dual 2s so you can run the amp at 1ohm. its really a 3500 thats 1/2ohm stable..



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    Re: Box build

    Quote Originally Posted by Techydrone View Post
    That does make more since. I was thinking a taramps 8k but I'd have to go all out to achieve that steady voltage. Hence why I bumped up to CT. Reliability. Now I'm thinking if I just got it and threw the rest at and alt and just one upgraded battery it's Ballance itself out. There's just no way to make a decision on all this fml
    ive spend probably 30 grand on car audio.
    first thing i buy is an alternator and a good battery.
    second i buy wiring
    3rd i reinforce the car/truck
    4th i decide what i want to spend and achieve.
    next is testing the acoustics of the vehicle with the box i intend on building.

    for example if i want a SPL car i try to use subs with a higher motor strength and lower MMS. power isn't a huge factor in high SPL efficiency is. acoustics play a FAR bigger role that power or woofers. i suggest trying to focus more on making the car rigid and designing a system that suits your needs. naturally the cabin will have a peak. if you want ouput use that peak to choose the woofers that are most efficient in that bandwidth and with the given space you have..



    Insidious Audio

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    Re: Box build

    Like I said the only alt I can get for my car (and I'd have to modify my car) cost 650$ cause irragi is the only one who's said they can do it. It's a 320 amp on the plus side




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    Re: Box build

    Twisted Sounds TS3.5KW 3500w Monoblock Amplifier - SSA STORE
    this is a 4500 watt board up upgraded caps and transistors on the output section. very strong 3500.

    you could step up to the BLs which is about another 150 bucks.



    Insidious Audio

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