Well Ive got a spare SA 8 D4 motor/basket laying around that I can recone.. may as well find a use for it if I dont sell it or keep it as a spare.
If I built a ported box for the 8, what would I need to make it work with a PC?
CarAudio.com Elite
Well Ive got a spare SA 8 D4 motor/basket laying around that I can recone.. may as well find a use for it if I dont sell it or keep it as a spare.
If I built a ported box for the 8, what would I need to make it work with a PC?
1995 Nissan 240SX 5 speed
-Headunit: JVC AHD-69
-Speakers: Polk Audio DB6501 comps up front, no rears.
-Speaker amp: Diamond D401 old school SQ made in USA
-Sub: 12" NSv1 w/ Zv3 soft parts, 1.8~cube box tuned to 34
-Sub amp: Sundown SAZ 3k
-Electrical: 115A Nissan quest alt, Big 3 with 1/0, C&D 75ah under hood, C&D 75aH in trunk.
-Trunk, doors, and rear deck w/ AT 60mil. Trunk lid deadened with great stuff + SS Spectrum.
What's in your trunk?
a plate amp, other speakers, the first thing that came to mind
Alpine 9887 w/ Bluetooth
Kicker SX700.4
Phoenix Gold Ti 65cs
Mpyre 65m
Kicker SX900.2
Stereo Integrity Magnum v1 claw
cream jean of sound 8======D~ _
refs: Lil_KB, jesusbasscadill, Crzy, Wkbdkid, bigwheel15, groggy23, kenbei, Belunt (awesomebox), Nissan, shallowfu, jonnybusa, alxmlr789, pioneerpimp, peas247, ravens9322, sundownz, audiobahnuser18, [email]nbesaw2@new.rr, jared530, brenTgrillzem, Revrider1
Acoustics Engineer
A plate amp for the sub and another amp for the speakers, unless you'd just use existing pc speakers.
You can get affordable plate amps from Parts Express and MCM Electronics
have you been helped by me? i'd love to know. shoot me a PM.
My 2001 Accord build log:
http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/536049-2001-accord-ex-sedan-its-long.html
Can I help you? valencebandacoustics@gmail.com
Want to learn about car audio electronics?
http://www.bcae1.com
Mountaintop Stainer
If I remember correctly the BASH plate amps only go up to 1000.
You might need a PA amp.
Audioque
Plate amps or you can find your self a power supply for cheap that you can run a car amp to.
Refs: sbcaprice305, mattmcss, systembumping, LeofromtheH, audiobahnuser18, stishdr, wcarson8911, jnoel, mr_kebo, 93 saturn sl2
HU: Home stereo converted to dc
Speakers: Stock
Subs: 6 1/2 home sub
Amp: off the stereo
Wiring: extended power cord
neon lights: Christmas lights duct taped to frame
customizer
i got a yamaha p3500s for christmas.its a pa amp.it will be hooked up to my yamaha 5.1 surround sound for subwoofer duty.in order to get an unbalaced signal(home audio gear) to pro gear signal.i have a rolls mb15b i will recieve in the mail tomorrow.this lil unit converts the typical -10db output from the consumer gear to +4db required to use pro gear to its potential. i have seen a guy on youtube using the pa amp like i have from his computer to a small dj mixer to the pa amp.he had a 15 in a custom built box and it seemed very loud
Ride;370z
alpine 9887
DD6
CarAudio.com Elite
A amp, several have been suggested, remember that a home doesn't need the spl that a car does. If you are gaming or watching movies then tune way lower than you would in a car. Try about 25hz.Originally Posted by KTMrida4life
HU - Pioneer
Front Stage - Old school MB Quartz run off a JL e2150
Rear Stage - Stock - well one works, LOL
Sub - Tang Band 740C in between the front seats
Sub Amp - A tiny Kenwood. - because it fits under the seat.
Total Spent on everything $50.
Member
This sounds like a good idea in theory, but in reality you'll spend almost as much on a 12v power supply that can handle an amp as you would on a plate amp of similar power output. That is, you spend more in the long run. Since music is dynamic you can use a battery and a charger. I'd recommend a sealed battery and a ****** charger if you're going to go this route.
Beware, it's difficult to perfectly rectify 110/220 AC into 12-14v DC. Thus, there is a high chance of there being some noise you can not get rid of (without some mondo diodes which wouldn't be good for efficiency). This is why the highest end 12v supplies for test beds cost thousands of dollars.
In highschool I took 3 350w ATX power supplies, modified them to just output 12v, and wired them in parallel. It worked. Ran a 400w RMS amp pretty well. Cost me $50 for the amp and $0 for the supplies (were burnt out at 5 or 3.3v or from trash computers). However, there was a 60Hz buzz always, independent of gain or volume.
I put on
^ Is running PSU's in parallel in anyway harmful? Do you need diodes for each PSU?
Member
They didn't catch on fire and didn't harm the amp. Just some 60Hz noise. No diodes that weren't already in the PSU design. A diode pack that could handle that current would have been far too much for my highschool pockets and probably would have added too much resistance for the amp to turn on. I suppose if you wanted to spend $30-40 and had a bunch of PSU's laying around you could make a decent 12v supply with an external rectifier and probably drop the hum to a sub audible level.
Member
Oh and IIRC two of the PSU's were identical and one was a very similar (slightly older) model.
Acoustics Engineer
yea, trying to run car audio amps in a house is just pointless. a lot of hassle for no gain when compared to plate amps or pro audio amps. if plate amps aren't large enough - go with a pro audio amp.
have you been helped by me? i'd love to know. shoot me a PM.
My 2001 Accord build log:
http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/536049-2001-accord-ex-sedan-its-long.html
Can I help you? valencebandacoustics@gmail.com
Want to learn about car audio electronics?
http://www.bcae1.com
mmmm aeroports
Yeah, Just get something like a Dayton Rackmount amp or a Crown XTI. I think that would be better vs using pc power supplies on a car audio amp. Your choice though.
refs on here: bought from PioneerSPL1990, amartin_72, fasfocus00, Kowboy | Sold to evildave101, Louisiana_CRX, KAC1023, Zachfeen, ds0110 | refs on caco: 72impala, super_duper, KAC1023, tandrel | refs on ebay: my username is chevy-guy87
CarAudio.com Elite
lol
Were you joking about just running a big car battery in my room? I laughed at first, but thats actually an option.. just depends how fast it will drain. I can get my hands on 135ah batteries pretty cheap..
1995 Nissan 240SX 5 speed
-Headunit: JVC AHD-69
-Speakers: Polk Audio DB6501 comps up front, no rears.
-Speaker amp: Diamond D401 old school SQ made in USA
-Sub: 12" NSv1 w/ Zv3 soft parts, 1.8~cube box tuned to 34
-Sub amp: Sundown SAZ 3k
-Electrical: 115A Nissan quest alt, Big 3 with 1/0, C&D 75ah under hood, C&D 75aH in trunk.
-Trunk, doors, and rear deck w/ AT 60mil. Trunk lid deadened with great stuff + SS Spectrum.
CarAudio.com Elite
I have heard of it being done. I'd get a real amp for about the same price though.
HU - Pioneer
Front Stage - Old school MB Quartz run off a JL e2150
Rear Stage - Stock - well one works, LOL
Sub - Tang Band 740C in between the front seats
Sub Amp - A tiny Kenwood. - because it fits under the seat.
Total Spent on everything $50.
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