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Reload Thread: Dayton Titantic 15" MkIII worklog *pics*

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    PV Audio's Avatar
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    Dayton Titantic 15" MkIII worklog *pics*

    ok guys, starting on the dayton w00t! bought this mdf for 10.99 because it was "damaged in shipping". i looked it over, and i'm not worried. damage pics included. heres how we stand:

    tools of the trade:



    Hitachi *model number* cordless 14.4v drill
    Titebond II Premium Wood Glue
    Griprite PrimeGuard 1 5/8" screws
    Craftsman square edge

    front baffle, side and port installed



    port:



    AYYY! heinous damage! how will we ever fix this?!?! *faints*



    theres a solution to everything




    SHAZAM!


    that's all for now, didn't take any more pics. all that isn't shown are two braces that were put in moments later.

    i need ur guy's help for the finishing. what should i do? lacquer? enamel? veneer? wanting either white or black.







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    Re: Dayton Titantic 15" MkIII worklog *pics*

    good work so far man.... you still won't be as loud as my Atlas...lol... j/k

    Nice work man... Why not go with Titebond III?



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    Re: Dayton Titantic 15" MkIII worklog *pics*

    where did you happen to find damaged MDF?

    because if thats all the damage i want some



    1996 Camaro Z28
    Head Unit: Pioneer Premier DEH-P860MP
    Front: Polk Momo MMC6500 6.5", Tweeters, and X-overs
    Rear: Stock Delco 6.5"
    Subs: 2 12" Alpine Type R
    Sub Amp: Alpine 1005


    2002 Honda Civic EX
    Pioneer AVIC-D3
    Directed Audio 2510 and 6"x9"
    Cerwin Vega Component System up front
    Viper 1200.1----15" FI BL

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    Re: Dayton Titantic 15" MkIII worklog *pics*

    Quote Originally Posted by Untouchable11
    good work so far man.... you still won't be as loud as my Atlas...lol... j/k

    Nice work man... Why not go with Titebond III?
    lol i would have gone with the woodshop's blend, but they were closed for some reason....anyway, i saw that the quart of II was actually cheaper than the smaller bottle of III. i actually have some III left over from milenko's SX15 box, but i don't want to use it on projects for me cause its $$$




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    Re: Dayton Titantic 15" MkIII worklog *pics*

    Quote Originally Posted by chris96camaro
    where did you happen to find damaged MDF?

    because if thats all the damage i want some
    lowes. they sell 4x8s of sheet rock for $2 as well that are "damaged" but just have chipped ends




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    Re: Dayton Titantic 15" MkIII worklog *pics*

    Yeah, the Titebond III was like $8.xx for a small *** bottle.. it was gay..



    References: Blados, sbacaprice305, Mr. Loki (3), trn
    sephiroth619, bobo244, kmart fan6, canadiancav, FRITO, HincklNutt, SSS 18734, nikosbuddy, Loud3, chaarlieee, negative3five, pwnt by pat, James Bang, bimma85

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    Re: Dayton Titantic 15" MkIII worklog *pics*

    Quote Originally Posted by lemans23
    lowes. they sell 4x8s of sheet rock for $2 as well that are "damaged" but just have chipped ends
    is it with the rest of the MDF, or does the damaged stuff have its own section...because for $11 i want some.....



    1996 Camaro Z28
    Head Unit: Pioneer Premier DEH-P860MP
    Front: Polk Momo MMC6500 6.5", Tweeters, and X-overs
    Rear: Stock Delco 6.5"
    Subs: 2 12" Alpine Type R
    Sub Amp: Alpine 1005


    2002 Honda Civic EX
    Pioneer AVIC-D3
    Directed Audio 2510 and 6"x9"
    Cerwin Vega Component System up front
    Viper 1200.1----15" FI BL

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    Re: Dayton Titantic 15" MkIII worklog *pics*

    Quote Originally Posted by chris96camaro
    is it with the rest of the MDF, or does the damaged stuff have its own section...because for $11 i want some.....
    they have it on those retarded blue carts that are unbalanced. they put them on the lumber aisles. you just have ta look around, but they nearly ALWAYS have sheetrock here.




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    Re: Dayton Titantic 15" MkIII worklog *pics*

    Get one of those drill/countersinking bits so you can pre-drill the screw holes so your
    MDF doesn't split when driving the screw in -- as seen in your pics

    http://www.longchengtools.com/drill_8.jpg




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    Re: Dayton Titantic 15" MkIII worklog *pics*

    ooh good tip bro, how much and where can u get those?




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    Re: Dayton Titantic 15" MkIII worklog *pics*

    Quote Originally Posted by thylantyr
    Get one of those drill/countersinking bits so you can pre-drill the screw holes so your
    MDF doesn't split when driving the screw in -- as seen in your pics

    http://www.longchengtools.com/drill_8.jpg




    lol



    -

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    Re: Dayton Titantic 15" MkIII worklog *pics*

    Lemans, your box building skill are definalty improving. Get some more pics when you're done man. Oh, and it looks good so far




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    Re: Dayton Titantic 15" MkIII worklog *pics*

    Quote Originally Posted by lemans23
    ooh good tip bro, how much and where can u get those?
    Home centers in the drill bit area. Just get the drill bit size that mates to the screws
    you use. Not too big otherwise the screw won't bite, not too tiny otherwise the
    wood splits. I can't really tell you how to do this, I just eye ball the drill next
    to the screw and pick something that is smaller, perhaps a drill size that is about
    the same size of the screw shaft only not threads. Try half the screw diameter.

    The best way to do boxes if you axe me.

    *Cut the wood and double check the dimension by holding it next to the wood
    to glue to. Just hold it in place and do a quick eye check to make sure your cuts
    are perfect.

    *Predrill the wood with the countersinking bit, spread the holes out evenly.
    Use a scrap piece of wood underneath to reduce chipout and so you don't
    ruin the drill bit if you hit concrete. [if you are drilling the hole on the floor].

    *Use some finish nails and pre-nail the areas between the holes you drilled.

    *Add glue to both pieces of wood being nailed together.

    *Have someone help you hold the wood while you nail the panel in place.

    *Use the countersinking drill and redrill the hole, but now you drill deeper.

    *Install the screws.

    *Use a punch to hit the nail deeper and use putty to fill it.

    This method probably doesn't make sense.

    When you pre-nail and pre-countersink/drill, it makes the wood fit perfect without
    wander. When you nail the wood first and have the wood held in place, the
    wood will not drift as you use the hammer and the joint is in perfect alignment.

    When you predrill next, the drill bit won't shift the wood panel because the
    nails are already installed.

    Plan B. If you feel skilled, skip the pre-drill step and do it last after you nail the wood.

    These are extra steps but you will save alot of time on sanding because if you
    do it right, there is very little. Just wipe off the excess glue with a damp rag
    after you are done. Don't let it dry in blobs.

    Do you have a table saw?




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    Re: Dayton Titantic 15" MkIII worklog *pics*

    lookin nice man



    crunktimes . com/ct

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    Re: Dayton Titantic 15" MkIII worklog *pics*

    thylantr, i TECHNICALLY do have a table saw, but i'm not using it anymore for projects because it is truly a POS. the cuts arent straight and the motor is weaker than gary coleman on THE GRIP. i also do not own a nail gun (looking at this ****** bostich package ) but I will go get that drill bit as soon as these morons stop cleaning my mother's fish tank.

    and thanks eug




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