Alright, Boys (Noob uncertainties)

[TheUnderFighter]

For me, maybe it's just my HU, but I could easily tell the difference on Bluetooth. It sounded kinda like radio connection. But it was convenient at times.

The on/off wire, also known as the "remote wire" will run from the wiring harness on your HU, to your amps.

And just keep reading, that's how I learned anything. Read anything you can, and take it all for a grain of salt. Everything works different for everyone.

Mids usually start crossing around 80hz. That's also usually the highest you'll want your subs playing. You might have your mids crossed higher with a lower dB slope. Or have them crossed lower with a sharper dB slope. You just gotta play with it, depending on driver selection and musical preference. I think the Pioneer 80prs is the best option for you. Best to learn on for newbies. It's the most noob friendly.

Basic Guide-read this before posting - DIYMA Car Audio Forum

On-axis vs off-axis - DIYMA Car Audio Forum

couple good reads there

Oh, also.... www.bcae1.com

[AxT4430]

For me, maybe it's just my HU, but I could easily tell the difference on Bluetooth. It sounded kinda like radio connection. But it was convenient at times.

The on/off wire, also known as the "remote wire" will run from the wiring harness on your HU, to your amps.

And just keep reading, that's how I learned anything. Read anything you can, and take it all for a grain of salt. Everything works different for everyone.

Mids usually start crossing around 80hz. That's also usually the highest you'll want your subs playing. You might have your mids crossed higher with a lower dB slope. Or have them crossed lower with a sharper dB slope. You just gotta play with it, depending on driver selection and musical preference. I think the Pioneer 80prs is the best option for you. Best to learn on for newbies. It's the most noob friendly.

Basic Guide-read this before posting - DIYMA Car Audio Forum

On-axis vs off-axis - DIYMA Car Audio Forum

couple good reads there

Oh, also.... Basic Car Audio Electronics

Thanks alot! Since i cant sleep pm best price shipped to 44314! I can get a bnib
Cz702 from 150-200 shipped! With sleeve and harness specific to vehicle!

[AxT4430]

Hey guys update here:

I purchased a clarion cz702(on its way here) from Timmy( great seller) on here.. I will be using my polk audio 6501 2 way set until summer, unless I sell off my subwoofer or broken aq1200..

So, Im wondering where I should start at with crossover points and slopes? The crossover is a 2nd order. Although Im not sure where it crosses over at, or why its listed as 2nd order as my passive attentuation is (iirc) -3db to +3db... so, im probably just confusing the 2nd order (12db/octave?) passive cross over

I also will try and place them in my honda civic sail panel's or a pillar with either @keep_hope_alive ; 's spheres or another poster had some pvc end caps that looked pretty easy to do by myself. On axis. I haven't read yet if I should load my tweeters off the windshield or point them at me/ middle console for comprimised spot for driver/passenger side.

So, Like I said above Im not where the passive crossover crosses the tweeters at. I have them attenuated at +3db slope on my passive xover currently.. Where should I start the crossover from mid to tweeter range? Ill cross my component around 80hz i suppose at a 12 or 24 db slope ( that means at 40hz they will be half as loud at -3db slope, right?)\


extra info: Im running the listed comp set off a jbl gto 1000.4 and my spl audio 15 ( sub and L port facing trunk hatch, seat up) on my autotek ss 1500.

[AxT4430]

Sorry if any of the above is face palmage.. I've been very busy with college courses so I've had some very limited time on diyma.com

@neo_styles ; @av83 ; @TheUnderFighter ;

Sorry to keep mentioning you guys, but you are all sq men!

[gckless]

Hey guys update here:

I purchased a clarion cz702(on its way here) from Timmy( great seller) on here.. I will be using my polk audio 6501 2 way set until summer, unless I sell off my subwoofer or broken aq1200..

So, Im wondering where I should start at with crossover points and slopes? The crossover is a 2nd order. Although Im not sure where it crosses over at, or why its listed as 2nd order as my passive attentuation is (iirc) -3db to +3db... so, im probably just confusing the 2nd order (12db/octave?) passive cross over

I also will try and place them in my honda civic sail panel's or a pillar with either @keep_hope_alive ; 's spheres or another poster had some pvc end caps that looked pretty easy to do by myself. On axis of course, but I havent read yet if I should load my tweeters off the windshield or point them at me/ middle console for comprimised spot for driver/passenger side.

So, Like I said above Im not where the passive crossover crosses the tweeters at. I have them attenuated at +3db slope on my passive xover currently.. Where should I start the crossover from mid to tweeter range? Ill cross my component around 80hz i suppose at a -3 or -6 db slope ( that means at 40hz they will be half as loud at -3db slope, right?)\


extra info: Im running the listed comp set off a jbl gto 1000.4 and my spl audio 15 ( sub and L port facing trunk hatch, seat up) on my autotek ss 1500.

Dude, you really need to do some reading. Not trying to rag on you, it's just you might have a tough time or ruin some gear, which will really frustrate and discourage you.

With that said, if you plan on running active, you are no longer using the crossovers that came with the 6501 set. If you are going passive, then you will. Either way, cross your sub/mid at 80Hz with a 24dB/octave slope to start.

That passive attenuation you were talking about is for the tweeters only. Attenuation has nothing to do with crossover or slope. Well, it does in a way, but for your sake, it doesn't. All attentuation is a decrease in volume, literally "weakening in force or intensity". That switch is for the tweeter's level.

Before we go any farther, do you plan on using the passive crossovers and running passive, or running a wire from each of your amp's channels and going active?

[AxT4430]

Dude, you really need to do some reading. Not trying to rag on you, it's just you might have a tough time or ruin some gear, which will really frustrate and discourage you.

With that said, if you plan on running active, you are no longer using the crossovers that came with the 6501 set. If you are going passive, then you will. Either way, cross your sub/mid at 80Hz with a 24dB/octave slope to start.

That passive attenuation you were talking about is for the tweeters only. Attenuation has nothing to do with crossover or slope. Well, it does in a way, but for your sake, it doesn't. All attentuation is a decrease in volume, literally "weakening in force or intensity". That switch is for the tweeter's level.

Before we go any farther, do you plan on using the passive crossovers and running passive, or running a wire from each of your amp's channels and going active?

I know I wont be using my cross over, i was using them as refernce points for my first crossover points...

[neo_styles]

It's all good, man. I'd start by setting a HPF for your woofers at 63-80Hz (wherever you prefer) but letting them roll of naturally on the upper end. Then, for the tweeters, since Polk's are normally victim to a lot of sibilance, would try lifting their crossover point somewhere between 2.5-3k. Should be a good foundation and, from there, you can start tweaking things to what EQs the best.

[AxT4430]

I know I wont be using my cross over, i was using them as refernce points for my first crossover points...

and duh on me... the crossover point at the sub and comp is high pass filter.. i was thinking low pass filter for some reason..

[AxT4430]

and duh the crossover point at the sub and comp is high pass filter.. i was thinking low pass filter for some reason..

If im able I wont to set my amp to full pass, then wire each comp and tweet to my amplifier.. can you guys verify that I can do this? or I will in time..

Thanks @neo_styles ; @gckless ;

side note- I kind of wish I would have waited to get a prs80.. from what I read they have more slope settings..

[gckless]

I know I wont be using my cross over, i was using them as refernce points for my first crossover points...

So you are running active then?

Alright well as I said, sub should be a LPF at 80Hz with a 24dB/octave slope and mid should have a HPF of 80Hz with a 24dB/octave slope. As for upper point, you could try mid LPF and tweeter HPF around 3.2kHz with a 12dB/octave slope to start. Your point and slope between mid and tweeter is based on equipment capability and listener preference. I would say you would be safe doing anything from 2.8kHz-4.2kHz.

I'm not trying to offend you in my last post, but you do need to read more man.

[neo_styles]

If im able I wont to set my amp to full range, then wire each comp and tweet to my amplifier.. can you guys verify that I can do this? or I will in time..

Thanks @neo_styles ; @gckless ;

side note- I kind of wish I would have waited to get a prs80.. from what I read they have more slope settings..

Actually, I've heard the crossovers on the Clarion were better, but Pioneer had the upper hand when it came to EQ. You might still be OK.

[AxT4430]

So you are running active then?

Alright well as I said, sub should be a LPF at 80Hz with a 24dB/octave slope and mid should have a HPF of 80Hz with a 24dB/octave slope. As for upper point, you could try mid LPF and tweeter HPF around 3.2kHz with a 12dB/octave slope to start. Your point and slope between mid and tweeter is based on equipment capability and listener preference. I would say you would be safe doing anything from 2.8kHz-4.2kHz.

I'm not trying to offend you in my last post, but you do need to read more man.

Youre fine haha. I admit i dont know, yet! Ill have to get another set of rcas my tweeters if I want to run one channel with them, and another on my comps right?

This was probably to premature of a post.. sorry guys

and Yes, Im running active!

[gckless]

If im able I wont to set my amp to full range, then wire each comp and tweet to my amplifier.. can you guys verify that I can do this? or I will in time..

Thanks @neo_styles ; @gckless ;

side note- I kind of wish I would have waited to get a prs80.. from what I read they have more slope settings..

The way I think you are doing it, you want to set it to full pass. Because you are setting points and slopes on your HU, you don't want your amp doing something differently, so you just want your amp to amplify every signal that it sees, which has already been crossed and processed by your HU. Make sense?

[AxT4430]

Actually, I've heard the crossovers on the Clarion were better, but Pioneer had the upper hand when it came to EQ. You might still be OK.

I may end up buying someone a plane ticket to come help me in the summer haha

---------- Post added at 04:33 AM ---------- Previous post was at 04:32 AM ----------

The way I think you are doing it, you want to set it to full pass. Because you are setting points and slopes on your HU, you don't want your amp doing something differently, so you just want your amp to amplify every signal that it sees, which has already been crossed and processed by your HU. Make sense?

Crystal clear!

[gckless]

It's all good, man. I'd start by setting a HPF for your woofers at 63-80Hz (wherever you prefer) but letting them roll of naturally on the upper end. Then, for the tweeters, since Polk's are normally victim to a lot of sibilance, would try lifting their crossover point somewhere between 2.5-3k. Should be a good foundation and, from there, you can start tweaking things to what EQs the best.

Natural roll off huh? Why that versus knowing where he's at?

And I wouldn't really trust those Polk's to get down to 63 under power :/ Not decently anyway.