Closed Thread
Page 4 of 6 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 LastLast
Results 46 to 60 of 84

Reload Thread: Alright, Boys (Noob uncertainties)

  1. #46
    TheUnderFighter's Avatar
    TheUnderFighter is offline Beer Addict



    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Murrieta, California, (SoCal)
    Age
    23
    Posts
    3,465
    Post Thanks / Like
    Images
    5
    Mentioned
    28 Post(s)

    Re: Alright, Boys (Noob uncertainties)

    For me, maybe it's just my HU, but I could easily tell the difference on Bluetooth. It sounded kinda like radio connection. But it was convenient at times.

    The on/off wire, also known as the "remote wire" will run from the wiring harness on your HU, to your amps.

    And just keep reading, that's how I learned anything. Read anything you can, and take it all for a grain of salt. Everything works different for everyone.

    Mids usually start crossing around 80hz. That's also usually the highest you'll want your subs playing. You might have your mids crossed higher with a lower dB slope. Or have them crossed lower with a sharper dB slope. You just gotta play with it, depending on driver selection and musical preference. I think the Pioneer 80prs is the best option for you. Best to learn on for newbies. It's the most noob friendly.

    Basic Guide-read this before posting - DIYMA Car Audio Forum

    On-axis vs off-axis - DIYMA Car Audio Forum

    couple good reads there

    Oh, also.... www.bcae1.com



    2009 Hyundai Elantra - Budget Sound in Progress
    HU- Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X994
    Fronts- Crescendo MP6 mids, Vifa Ring Radiator tweets on Arc KS300.4
    Subs- Single SA-10 on Mmats 2000.1 @ 1ohm
    Misc- 1/0 CCA from AT, Big 3 in Stinger HPM, and AT 60 mil deadener
    Bought from: Inferno333, select127, treesive, Kangaroux, DonH
    Sold to: coolest user, Psychodrama, MidgetClown, mr.tigger, av83




  2. #47
    AxT4430's Avatar
    AxT4430 is offline CarAudio.com Elite

    Threadstarter


    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Akron, OH
    Age
    24
    Posts
    848
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)

    Re: Alright, Boys (Noob uncertainties)

    Quote Originally Posted by TheUnderFighter View Post
    For me, maybe it's just my HU, but I could easily tell the difference on Bluetooth. It sounded kinda like radio connection. But it was convenient at times.

    The on/off wire, also known as the "remote wire" will run from the wiring harness on your HU, to your amps.

    And just keep reading, that's how I learned anything. Read anything you can, and take it all for a grain of salt. Everything works different for everyone.

    Mids usually start crossing around 80hz. That's also usually the highest you'll want your subs playing. You might have your mids crossed higher with a lower dB slope. Or have them crossed lower with a sharper dB slope. You just gotta play with it, depending on driver selection and musical preference. I think the Pioneer 80prs is the best option for you. Best to learn on for newbies. It's the most noob friendly.

    Basic Guide-read this before posting - DIYMA Car Audio Forum

    On-axis vs off-axis - DIYMA Car Audio Forum

    couple good reads there

    Oh, also.... Basic Car Audio Electronics
    Thanks alot! Since i cant sleep pm best price shipped to 44314! I can get a bnib
    Cz702 from 150-200 shipped! With sleeve and harness specific to vehicle!




  3. #48
    AxT4430's Avatar
    AxT4430 is offline CarAudio.com Elite

    Threadstarter


    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Akron, OH
    Age
    24
    Posts
    848
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)

    Re: Alright, Boys (Noob uncertainties)

    Hey guys update here:

    I purchased a clarion cz702(on its way here) from Timmy( great seller) on here.. I will be using my polk audio 6501 2 way set until summer, unless I sell off my subwoofer or broken aq1200..

    So, Im wondering where I should start at with crossover points and slopes? The crossover is a 2nd order. Although Im not sure where it crosses over at, or why its listed as 2nd order as my passive attentuation is (iirc) -3db to +3db... so, im probably just confusing the 2nd order (12db/octave?) passive cross over

    I also will try and place them in my honda civic sail panel's or a pillar with either @keep_hope_alive ; 's spheres or another poster had some pvc end caps that looked pretty easy to do by myself. On axis. I haven't read yet if I should load my tweeters off the windshield or point them at me/ middle console for comprimised spot for driver/passenger side.

    So, Like I said above Im not where the passive crossover crosses the tweeters at. I have them attenuated at +3db slope on my passive xover currently.. Where should I start the crossover from mid to tweeter range? Ill cross my component around 80hz i suppose at a 12 or 24 db slope ( that means at 40hz they will be half as loud at -3db slope, right?)\


    extra info: Im running the listed comp set off a jbl gto 1000.4 and my spl audio 15 ( sub and L port facing trunk hatch, seat up) on my autotek ss 1500.




  4. #49
    AxT4430's Avatar
    AxT4430 is offline CarAudio.com Elite

    Threadstarter


    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Akron, OH
    Age
    24
    Posts
    848
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)

    Re: Alright, Boys (Noob uncertainties)

    Sorry if any of the above is face palmage.. I've been very busy with college courses so I've had some very limited time on diyma.com

    @neo_styles ; @av83 ; @TheUnderFighter ;

    Sorry to keep mentioning you guys, but you are all sq men!




  5. #50
    gckless's Avatar
    gckless is offline CarAudio.com Veteran



    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    San Antonio
    Posts
    4,123
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    28 Post(s)

    Re: Alright, Boys (Noob uncertainties)

    Quote Originally Posted by AxT4430 View Post
    Hey guys update here:

    I purchased a clarion cz702(on its way here) from Timmy( great seller) on here.. I will be using my polk audio 6501 2 way set until summer, unless I sell off my subwoofer or broken aq1200..

    So, Im wondering where I should start at with crossover points and slopes? The crossover is a 2nd order. Although Im not sure where it crosses over at, or why its listed as 2nd order as my passive attentuation is (iirc) -3db to +3db... so, im probably just confusing the 2nd order (12db/octave?) passive cross over

    I also will try and place them in my honda civic sail panel's or a pillar with either @keep_hope_alive ; 's spheres or another poster had some pvc end caps that looked pretty easy to do by myself. On axis of course, but I havent read yet if I should load my tweeters off the windshield or point them at me/ middle console for comprimised spot for driver/passenger side.

    So, Like I said above Im not where the passive crossover crosses the tweeters at. I have them attenuated at +3db slope on my passive xover currently.. Where should I start the crossover from mid to tweeter range? Ill cross my component around 80hz i suppose at a -3 or -6 db slope ( that means at 40hz they will be half as loud at -3db slope, right?)\


    extra info: Im running the listed comp set off a jbl gto 1000.4 and my spl audio 15 ( sub and L port facing trunk hatch, seat up) on my autotek ss 1500.
    Dude, you really need to do some reading. Not trying to rag on you, it's just you might have a tough time or ruin some gear, which will really frustrate and discourage you.

    With that said, if you plan on running active, you are no longer using the crossovers that came with the 6501 set. If you are going passive, then you will. Either way, cross your sub/mid at 80Hz with a 24dB/octave slope to start.

    That passive attenuation you were talking about is for the tweeters only. Attenuation has nothing to do with crossover or slope. Well, it does in a way, but for your sake, it doesn't. All attentuation is a decrease in volume, literally "weakening in force or intensity". That switch is for the tweeter's level.

    Before we go any farther, do you plan on using the passive crossovers and running passive, or running a wire from each of your amp's channels and going active?



    Quote Originally Posted by ducatipaso View Post
    15inch subs can't play fast beats, they take more power and that taxes the vehicles electrical system. You will wake up and "hear" then see the light at the end of the tunnel and it will be 3 10's pounding so hard you wont even open your trunk or turn your system on because you 15's will sound sloppy & weak.
    Quote Originally Posted by benbenondatrack View Post
    stfu lesbo.why are you worried about me so much? you must want to date me ya little cookie monster but i dont even like sweets. your just a cup full of ice, dirt dead nasty azz ice...without the water.

    Dat Build Log: http://mobileaudioforum.com/forum/showthread.php?2566-1999-Chevrolet-Blazer&highlight=1999+blazer

  6. Thanks nismos14 thanked for this post
    Likes ciaonzo liked this post
  7. #51
    AxT4430's Avatar
    AxT4430 is offline CarAudio.com Elite

    Threadstarter


    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Akron, OH
    Age
    24
    Posts
    848
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)

    Re: Alright, Boys (Noob uncertainties)

    Quote Originally Posted by gckless View Post
    Dude, you really need to do some reading. Not trying to rag on you, it's just you might have a tough time or ruin some gear, which will really frustrate and discourage you.

    With that said, if you plan on running active, you are no longer using the crossovers that came with the 6501 set. If you are going passive, then you will. Either way, cross your sub/mid at 80Hz with a 24dB/octave slope to start.

    That passive attenuation you were talking about is for the tweeters only. Attenuation has nothing to do with crossover or slope. Well, it does in a way, but for your sake, it doesn't. All attentuation is a decrease in volume, literally "weakening in force or intensity". That switch is for the tweeter's level.

    Before we go any farther, do you plan on using the passive crossovers and running passive, or running a wire from each of your amp's channels and going active?
    I know I wont be using my cross over, i was using them as refernce points for my first crossover points...




  8. #52
    neo_styles's Avatar
    neo_styles is offline AKA Pop Twidget



    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Porter Ranch, CA
    Age
    28
    Posts
    3,584
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    50 Post(s)

    Re: Alright, Boys (Noob uncertainties)

    It's all good, man. I'd start by setting a HPF for your woofers at 63-80Hz (wherever you prefer) but letting them roll of naturally on the upper end. Then, for the tweeters, since Polk's are normally victim to a lot of sibilance, would try lifting their crossover point somewhere between 2.5-3k. Should be a good foundation and, from there, you can start tweaking things to what EQs the best.



    Deck: JVC KD-A95BT
    Speakers: PHD FB mid, JBL MS tweets
    Amps: Boston Acoustics GT-2125, Zed Minotaur III (x2)
    Sub: 10" SSA ICON, IA Death Penalty 18" (coming soon)
    Starr Mountain Sound Nuthugger #2 (I'm a #2 lol)
    dcarcustoms Nuthugger #1
    Spotify: http://open.spotify.com/user/neo_styles/playlist/6t9ru42j0wbEsuo4bXqXD8
    PROUD MEMBER OF TEAM VERTEX

  9. #53
    AxT4430's Avatar
    AxT4430 is offline CarAudio.com Elite

    Threadstarter


    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Akron, OH
    Age
    24
    Posts
    848
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)

    Re: Alright, Boys (Noob uncertainties)

    Quote Originally Posted by AxT4430 View Post
    I know I wont be using my cross over, i was using them as refernce points for my first crossover points...
    and duh on me... the crossover point at the sub and comp is high pass filter.. i was thinking low pass filter for some reason..




  10. #54
    AxT4430's Avatar
    AxT4430 is offline CarAudio.com Elite

    Threadstarter


    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Akron, OH
    Age
    24
    Posts
    848
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)

    Re: Alright, Boys (Noob uncertainties)

    Quote Originally Posted by AxT4430 View Post
    and duh the crossover point at the sub and comp is high pass filter.. i was thinking low pass filter for some reason..
    If im able I wont to set my amp to full pass, then wire each comp and tweet to my amplifier.. can you guys verify that I can do this? or I will in time..

    Thanks @neo_styles ; @gckless ;

    side note- I kind of wish I would have waited to get a prs80.. from what I read they have more slope settings..




  11. #55
    gckless's Avatar
    gckless is offline CarAudio.com Veteran



    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    San Antonio
    Posts
    4,123
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    28 Post(s)

    Re: Alright, Boys (Noob uncertainties)

    Quote Originally Posted by AxT4430 View Post
    I know I wont be using my cross over, i was using them as refernce points for my first crossover points...
    So you are running active then?

    Alright well as I said, sub should be a LPF at 80Hz with a 24dB/octave slope and mid should have a HPF of 80Hz with a 24dB/octave slope. As for upper point, you could try mid LPF and tweeter HPF around 3.2kHz with a 12dB/octave slope to start. Your point and slope between mid and tweeter is based on equipment capability and listener preference. I would say you would be safe doing anything from 2.8kHz-4.2kHz.

    I'm not trying to offend you in my last post, but you do need to read more man.



    Quote Originally Posted by ducatipaso View Post
    15inch subs can't play fast beats, they take more power and that taxes the vehicles electrical system. You will wake up and "hear" then see the light at the end of the tunnel and it will be 3 10's pounding so hard you wont even open your trunk or turn your system on because you 15's will sound sloppy & weak.
    Quote Originally Posted by benbenondatrack View Post
    stfu lesbo.why are you worried about me so much? you must want to date me ya little cookie monster but i dont even like sweets. your just a cup full of ice, dirt dead nasty azz ice...without the water.

    Dat Build Log: http://mobileaudioforum.com/forum/showthread.php?2566-1999-Chevrolet-Blazer&highlight=1999+blazer

  12. Likes ciaonzo liked this post
  13. #56
    neo_styles's Avatar
    neo_styles is offline AKA Pop Twidget



    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Porter Ranch, CA
    Age
    28
    Posts
    3,584
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    50 Post(s)

    Re: Alright, Boys (Noob uncertainties)

    Quote Originally Posted by AxT4430 View Post
    If im able I wont to set my amp to full range, then wire each comp and tweet to my amplifier.. can you guys verify that I can do this? or I will in time..

    Thanks @neo_styles ; @gckless ;

    side note- I kind of wish I would have waited to get a prs80.. from what I read they have more slope settings..
    Actually, I've heard the crossovers on the Clarion were better, but Pioneer had the upper hand when it came to EQ. You might still be OK.



    Deck: JVC KD-A95BT
    Speakers: PHD FB mid, JBL MS tweets
    Amps: Boston Acoustics GT-2125, Zed Minotaur III (x2)
    Sub: 10" SSA ICON, IA Death Penalty 18" (coming soon)
    Starr Mountain Sound Nuthugger #2 (I'm a #2 lol)
    dcarcustoms Nuthugger #1
    Spotify: http://open.spotify.com/user/neo_styles/playlist/6t9ru42j0wbEsuo4bXqXD8
    PROUD MEMBER OF TEAM VERTEX

  14. #57
    AxT4430's Avatar
    AxT4430 is offline CarAudio.com Elite

    Threadstarter


    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Akron, OH
    Age
    24
    Posts
    848
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)

    Re: Alright, Boys (Noob uncertainties)

    Quote Originally Posted by gckless View Post
    So you are running active then?

    Alright well as I said, sub should be a LPF at 80Hz with a 24dB/octave slope and mid should have a HPF of 80Hz with a 24dB/octave slope. As for upper point, you could try mid LPF and tweeter HPF around 3.2kHz with a 12dB/octave slope to start. Your point and slope between mid and tweeter is based on equipment capability and listener preference. I would say you would be safe doing anything from 2.8kHz-4.2kHz.

    I'm not trying to offend you in my last post, but you do need to read more man.
    Youre fine haha. I admit i dont know, yet! Ill have to get another set of rcas my tweeters if I want to run one channel with them, and another on my comps right?

    This was probably to premature of a post.. sorry guys

    and Yes, Im running active!




  15. #58
    gckless's Avatar
    gckless is offline CarAudio.com Veteran



    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    San Antonio
    Posts
    4,123
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    28 Post(s)

    Re: Alright, Boys (Noob uncertainties)

    Quote Originally Posted by AxT4430 View Post
    If im able I wont to set my amp to full range, then wire each comp and tweet to my amplifier.. can you guys verify that I can do this? or I will in time..

    Thanks @neo_styles ; @gckless ;

    side note- I kind of wish I would have waited to get a prs80.. from what I read they have more slope settings..
    The way I think you are doing it, you want to set it to full pass. Because you are setting points and slopes on your HU, you don't want your amp doing something differently, so you just want your amp to amplify every signal that it sees, which has already been crossed and processed by your HU. Make sense?



    Quote Originally Posted by ducatipaso View Post
    15inch subs can't play fast beats, they take more power and that taxes the vehicles electrical system. You will wake up and "hear" then see the light at the end of the tunnel and it will be 3 10's pounding so hard you wont even open your trunk or turn your system on because you 15's will sound sloppy & weak.
    Quote Originally Posted by benbenondatrack View Post
    stfu lesbo.why are you worried about me so much? you must want to date me ya little cookie monster but i dont even like sweets. your just a cup full of ice, dirt dead nasty azz ice...without the water.

    Dat Build Log: http://mobileaudioforum.com/forum/showthread.php?2566-1999-Chevrolet-Blazer&highlight=1999+blazer

  16. #59
    AxT4430's Avatar
    AxT4430 is offline CarAudio.com Elite

    Threadstarter


    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Akron, OH
    Age
    24
    Posts
    848
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)

    Re: Alright, Boys (Noob uncertainties)

    Quote Originally Posted by neo_styles View Post
    Actually, I've heard the crossovers on the Clarion were better, but Pioneer had the upper hand when it came to EQ. You might still be OK.
    I may end up buying someone a plane ticket to come help me in the summer haha

    ---------- Post added at 04:33 AM ---------- Previous post was at 04:32 AM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by gckless View Post
    The way I think you are doing it, you want to set it to full pass. Because you are setting points and slopes on your HU, you don't want your amp doing something differently, so you just want your amp to amplify every signal that it sees, which has already been crossed and processed by your HU. Make sense?
    Crystal clear!




  17. #60
    gckless's Avatar
    gckless is offline CarAudio.com Veteran



    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    San Antonio
    Posts
    4,123
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    28 Post(s)

    Re: Alright, Boys (Noob uncertainties)

    Quote Originally Posted by neo_styles View Post
    It's all good, man. I'd start by setting a HPF for your woofers at 63-80Hz (wherever you prefer) but letting them roll of naturally on the upper end. Then, for the tweeters, since Polk's are normally victim to a lot of sibilance, would try lifting their crossover point somewhere between 2.5-3k. Should be a good foundation and, from there, you can start tweaking things to what EQs the best.
    Natural roll off huh? Why that versus knowing where he's at?

    And I wouldn't really trust those Polk's to get down to 63 under power :/ Not decently anyway.



    Quote Originally Posted by ducatipaso View Post
    15inch subs can't play fast beats, they take more power and that taxes the vehicles electrical system. You will wake up and "hear" then see the light at the end of the tunnel and it will be 3 10's pounding so hard you wont even open your trunk or turn your system on because you 15's will sound sloppy & weak.
    Quote Originally Posted by benbenondatrack View Post
    stfu lesbo.why are you worried about me so much? you must want to date me ya little cookie monster but i dont even like sweets. your just a cup full of ice, dirt dead nasty azz ice...without the water.

    Dat Build Log: http://mobileaudioforum.com/forum/showthread.php?2566-1999-Chevrolet-Blazer&highlight=1999+blazer

Closed Thread
Page 4 of 6 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Alright boys i ordered it.
    By Jacobman in forum General Discussion
    Replies: 19
    Last Post: 08-06-2007, 11:31 PM
  2. noob Please some advice?
    By trizzin4u in forum Subwoofers
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 04-17-2002, 04:57 PM
  3. Alright Installers
    By RangerMan in forum Wiring, Electrical and Installation Help
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 01-24-2002, 07:32 PM
  4. would this sound alright?
    By timmy23 in forum General Discussion
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 12-16-2001, 10:30 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may post replies
  • You may post attachments
  • You may edit your posts
1e2 Forum