I need some help guys

[Gui]

Now Im a noob on these boards but im no stranger to forums.

Anyway, I have a 1995 Suburban. The sounds is, well, terrible. I play bass for local bands and such. High Fidelity is my middle name.

Im new to the whole car-audio scene. I know practicly nothing about how much power you need for these types of deals.


From what I do know, I have 4 6-1/2'' speakers on the front 4 doors and 2 4x10'' speakers on the rear pillar.


Now I want premo sound. Clarity and deep warmth to it. No subwoofer. Every car I've ever been in with a woofer has muddy/drowned out sound. The highs pierce through the reverb of the bass. Its unsettling.


Anyway, I was just wondering if any of you can give me some tips on this. I would deeply appreciate it.

[sumone]

Every car I've ever been in with a woofer has muddy/drowned out sound

...well you've been in the wrong cars then; shouldn't generalize this to just all subwoofers. A well-deadened car with a decent sub in a sealed box with 2 to 300 watts and some decent component speakers up front can be a decent system (like mine ).

[Black_Jesus]

High Fidelity is my middle name.

names ehehhe

No subwoofer.

if ya want high fidelity, ya need a sub bro, just dont cheap out and get a crap one, believe me, the same sub can sound like crap and like god, its all in the way its installed

Anyway, I was just wondering if any of you can give me some tips on this. I would deeply appreciate it.

wtf, i did man, look up lol

about time u came out of the shadows, welcome

[JimJ]

I don't know, there are people out there that really don't need a sub, or have enough front stage that a sub can be unecessary (note, these are not my views, but they do exist! )

[Dir3ctor24]

To properly have accurate and precise sound reproduction, especially with BASS, you NEED a subwoofer. Now, you may no opt for a 1000 watt sub, but you should have one, even if it's not as powerful. My recomendation for a great system would be as follows...

Headunit: Alpine/Pioneer/Eclipse/Clarion
Components: Image Dynamics Chameleons/CDT HT's
Sub: Image Dynamics (http://www.woofersetc.com/product.as...1&1=304&3=1468) use that link for a great, low cost efficient sub
Sub amp: Depends on the sub you choose
Comp amp: JBL/HiFonics both provide cheap power
Wiring: Walmart...just get 4 guage.
Box for sub: Sealed....if you want SQ and low SPL

This stuff is all great SQ oriented gear, while still good for sound reproduction.

[nosaj070]

I won't make any brand specific recomendations, go to a shop and have a listen to some speakers, don't waste time listening to a sub, it doesn't mean **** if it sounds good in the showroom.

Get a set of components up front, then i'd vote to just get nice coaxials in the middle of the car, and just forget that back. Pick up one 12" sub of some kind, adire shiva comes to mind seal it, throw it 300 watts, and it should sound good. If you really want it to sound good pick up an equalizer (you may deifnetly need on in a car like that) and it will do wonders. Good luck.

[forbidden]

Good sound starts with a good cd player. There is a huge difference between a good cd player and a light show. Consider Eclipse, Denon and Nakamichi for this. Good sound ends with good speakers. As we all hear different this is the most subjective part of a system. Consider MB Quart, Focal, Adire, Image Dynamics for good speakers. I would leave out the far rear speakers entirely. Keep it to the front speakers and rear door speakers. Both should fit a oversize 6.5" woofer. Make sure you sound deaden each door and the vehicle if it is your budget. A ringing panel is robbing output in the midbass region from the speaker. Amplify these speakers with between 40-100 watts of power, based on what you have stated, a 50w rms X 4 amplifier should be tons of power. A single 10" or 12" sub in a sealed enclosure would properly round out the system. A subs purpose is to play sound that is beyond the capabilities of the other speakers in the system. The sound is naturally there and needs a driver of this size to accurately reproduce it (in most cases). A amp with about 300w rms of power is tons. MB Quart, Eclipse, Lightning Audio all make great subs that work in small sealed boxes or slighly larger ported boxes. Make sure that the cd player you choose has a subwoofer level control, this way if the sub bass is overbearing, a simple adjustment on the cd player can adequately kick it down to a much more appreciable level, conversly, if it is lacking in response, it may be turned up. This is indipendent of the main volume control. Have a look at the eclipse website and in particular the CD3424, there is probably no need to go any higher up the line in the cd players. www.eclipse-web.com

[squeak9798]

Don't know if this has been mentioned yet; Install and tuning is a VERY, VERY MAJOR part of a good sound quality system. You need to really deaden your entire vehicle (or atleast the doors) with a few layers of sound deadener to lessen resonances. Then you have speaker placement, phasing, etc etc. You can have the best equipment in the world, but it will sound like ass if poorly installed and poorly tuned.

[Gui]

Thanks a LOT for the info guys. It was very very helpful. Im almost certain about what im going to do. The talk about subwoofers and such has expanded my horizon. I sat in a car with a very well tuned system in it. It belongs to the owner of a local soundshop. It was crystal clear with rock. I asked him a lot of questions about tuning and such, so Im practicly convinced. My friends cars that had amps = ****. They must ahve been tuned wrong with a 800 watt rms output. I also found a company that installs musical speakers *what they use in PAs and bass cabinets* for a really awesome price. They are converted for use in a car. The thought of using the same 10 inch style speakers on my bass amp sounds really cool. Just a thought though, I doubt it will work the same.


Heres a new twist to the evergrowing plot. I found out that my cousin builds competition speakers. So MAYBE a good deal will be heading my way.

As soon as I find out who he works for, Ill post it on here.

Yet again, thank you all for the help.

[supa_c]

Wanna know something Gui.
I have a 97 burb if you want help.
Check out EFFENDi's sig to see what's in it.
oversize 6.5 dont fit in mine, they might fit in yours ( diff door style)

[Gui]

Then consider this.

Component 6.5s in the front doors.

Normal midrange speakers on the back doors.

Fit 6x9''s in the rear pillar.

Maybe a 10 inch sub in the wheel well area next to the rear air conditioner.


???


That = mucho cash though :-\.

[Gui]

Oh and this is what inspired me to do anything to my car.

http://www.mptronix.com/

I seriously suggest you audiophiles to check this out. Especially mp3 nerds. I have about 10000 of them... which is why I want one so bad.

[supa_c]

1. 6x9's will never fit, dont even attempt it, 4x10's or nothing
2. a 10" sub in the wheel well fit fine.
3. fan is on the other side.
also, when you upgrade, plug those speakers into a wall socket.
Its what they need

[Gui]

A friend of mine recommended Volfenhag. Know anything about these speakers?

I found a pair of 4x10s from them that handle up to 150 watts supposidly.

Anyway, the frequency response on the low end is a bit high. Are these good speakers?

# Speaker Size: 4" x 10"
# Design: 2-way
# Sensitivity: 91 dB
# Frequency Response: 70 - 20kHz
# Peak Power Handling: 400 watts
# RMS Power Handling: 150 watts approx.
# Impedance: 4 ohms

[squeak9798]

Don't buy them. Definitely better for the money.

Why do you want 4x10s in the rear?? If you are doing it for the rear-seat passengers, then just get something decently cheap and either run them off of your headunit power or a extra channels of an amp if you have them. If you don't have people in the rear very often or don't think they'll need to extra speakers to hear the music well, then don't even bother with them.