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    robert J's Avatar
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    System Diagram Proof

    Hi all,

    Haven't installed a stereo since my Alpine 3002 back in the '80s. Things have changed but I think I am up for the task. My new car sound system is terrible.

    Here is my potential set up and I would appreciate a once over by some experienced builders so I can avoid problems and money.

    2018 Kia forte sedan OEM head unite, 7" touch display, 10-20W / 6 channels (4x 6.5" in doors + tweets in dash)
    Rear center arm rest down position opens up flow from the trunk SUB. seats also fold down.

    Fosgate R250W mono block
    Clarion 50W RMS x4 (high level inputs for front doors components 50W rms) Doors and dash tweets / rear doors Kicker coax.

    Audio Control LC2i for Fosgate Mono block (12" sub) and rear (doors) channel of clarion (kicker 6.5" coax 100W rms). I am running the LC2i for the rear channels and high level inputs for the rears so I can retain fade control?

    Alpine components front doors and dash tweets (front channels Clarion)
    Kicker 100W RMS coax rear doors (rear channels Clarion)
    single alpine 12" 100W RMS sub (Trunk) Fosgate. (not going with duo dubs in diagram cuz would have to buy new subs)

    Is there a better way to set this stem up that is not substantially more money?

    Thanks for your time and input.

    Cheers, Rob.

    Last edited by robert J; 03-14-2018 at 03:22 PM.







  2. #2
    Jeffdachef's Avatar
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    Re: System Diagram Proof

    Save up some money and get a digital sound processor instead of a sh*tty LC2i



    09 Sienna Subs : Four Team Ascendant 18s......Sub amp: Two Taramps 15k
    Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS................................Mids/Highs amp: CT 500.2, ppi 600.2, ppi 900.4 bridged
    Front stage: Two PWX 10s per door midbass only....... PRV 6MR500 midrange....... Massive CT 2 german tweeters.
    320 amp Singer alt....... 1 group 34 under the hood 6 group31 agms in the back 560 amp hours total.

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    Re: System Diagram Proof

    Quote Originally Posted by Jeffdachef View Post
    Save up some money and get a digital sound processor instead of a sh*tty LC2i

    This seems like good advice.

    Of course using some Y splitters from the LC2i will not hurt anything, but if you're not happy with the results that does seem to be the weakest link in your plan, plan around the thought that you may want to upgrade that down the road.




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    Re: System Diagram Proof

    Thanks for the replies,

    I am not planning to use the RCA splitters, that was just FMI.

    The plan is to use the LC2i for the sub and rear channel of the main, while using the high level signal OEM inputs for the front channel so I can retain fade control. Is this incorrect?




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    Re: System Diagram Proof

    Quote Originally Posted by robert J View Post
    Thanks for the replies,

    I am not planning to use the RCA splitters, that was just FMI.

    The plan is to use the LC2i for the sub and rear channel of the main, while using the high level signal OEM inputs for the front channel so I can retain fade control. Is this incorrect?
    problem is, every stock head unit has a built in EQ curve the manufacturers implement that you have no control over. This is because they use cheap speakers and need to compensate for how sh*tty they sound naturally with a flat signal. They also have a built in high pass filter that cuts all bass from existence past a certain frequency. All the LC2i does is boost that garbage signal.

    While a proper Digital sound processor signal sum, and flatten the EQ along with restoring lost bass properly. The LC2i accubase is just a glorified 45hz bass boost, nothing else more. Not only that, you get 31 bands of EQ, full network mode crossovers, time alignment and literally complete control over the sound spectrum.

    If you are really into SQ, I would never touch anything as horrible as an audiocontrol line out convertor on a stock head unit. thats more for cheap basshead teens on a budget.

    Also might as well get a 5 channel amp, you'll get way more power than your clarion fosgate combo at a lower price.

    AKA this amp thats tested do way more than rated power. Which you will need if you are used to two 12s and you are only doing a single 12 in your setup. More power for your door speakers will make things sound a lot cleaner as well.
    https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...-JAD900.5.html



    09 Sienna Subs : Four Team Ascendant 18s......Sub amp: Two Taramps 15k
    Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS................................Mids/Highs amp: CT 500.2, ppi 600.2, ppi 900.4 bridged
    Front stage: Two PWX 10s per door midbass only....... PRV 6MR500 midrange....... Massive CT 2 german tweeters.
    320 amp Singer alt....... 1 group 34 under the hood 6 group31 agms in the back 560 amp hours total.

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    Re: System Diagram Proof

    Jeff worded it better than I could, you should definitely invest in a DSP

    throw in a $70 dso nano oscope to set your gains right and i think you're definitely doing better than most people starting out



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    Re: System Diagram Proof

    Quote Originally Posted by Jeffdachef View Post
    problem is, every stock head unit has a built in EQ curve the manufacturers implement that you have no control over. This is because they use cheap speakers and need to compensate for how sh*tty they sound naturally with a flat signal. They also have a built in high pass filter that cuts all bass from existence past a certain frequency. All the LC2i does is boost that garbage signal.
    I did not know that, thank for the info. I will consider options.

    I have not heard of NVX




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    Re: System Diagram Proof

    With the NVX 5 Ch I could run 2ohm rear doors for more RMS power and still use my 4ohm components up front yes?

    or does the amp need to have all four channels the same ohm resistance?
    Last edited by robert J; 03-14-2018 at 05:20 PM.




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    Re: System Diagram Proof

    Quote Originally Posted by wew lad View Post
    Jeff worded it better than I could, you should definitely invest in a DSP

    throw in a $70 dso nano oscope to set your gains right and i think you're definitely doing better than most people starting out
    Makes sense yes. Would an Lc6i do the trick or can you suggest a decent DSP for a decent price? Thanks.




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    Re: System Diagram Proof

    Quote Originally Posted by robert J View Post
    Makes sense yes. Would an Lc6i do the trick or can you suggest a decent DSP for a decent price? Thanks.
    if you have a newer android/apple phone or tablet, the rockford DSR1 isn't bad just buggy

    if you can afford a little more than $200, i would recommend the miniDSP 2x8 or 6x8. The 6x8 will let you retain fade if you have enough preouts from your headunit (factory headunit probably wouldnt work)

    the DSR1 does offer factory integration that MIGHT work with your vehicle. look into it!



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    Quote Originally Posted by Loudz View Post
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    Re: System Diagram Proof

    Quote Originally Posted by wew lad View Post
    if you have a newer android/apple phone or tablet, the rockford DSR1 isn't bad just buggy
    Cheers, I do have an Iphone. I will look into your suggestions.




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    Re: System Diagram Proof

    The NVX is the same cost as my intended fosgate and Clarion but with more options and power, making it a better option given comparative quality and longevity.

    I just have to work out the signal processing which will blow my budget. I was hoping not to have to get into the dash but pick up input signal from speakers wires. Lots to consider.

    Is an LC6i a good option or should I stay away from audio control products?




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    Re: System Diagram Proof

    Quote Originally Posted by robert J View Post
    The NVX is the same cost as my intended fosgate and Clarion but with more options and power, making it a better option given comparative quality and longevity.

    I just have to work out the signal processing which will blow my budget. I was hoping not to have to get into the dash but pick up input signal from speakers wires. Lots to consider.

    Is an LC6i a good option or should I stay away from audio control products?
    Stay clear away from audiocontrol lc6i is the same garbage as the lc2i, they are all just line out convertors, not any kind of digital signal convertors. What you are looking for is a signal sum, de-equalization unit with 31 band eq, time alignment, crossovers etc.. All the lc6i, lc2i, lc7i do is boost the garbage head unit signal without fixing anything. The only audiocontrol product that would qualify is the DM-608

    audison bit one/bit ten, helix dsp, arc audio ps8, hertz h8, alpine pxa 800, mini dsp, rockford dsr1 etc....

    You'll save money on wiring with the nvx since its just 1 amp vs two.
    This is a video on a proper amp dyno testing for true wattage.



    09 Sienna Subs : Four Team Ascendant 18s......Sub amp: Two Taramps 15k
    Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS................................Mids/Highs amp: CT 500.2, ppi 600.2, ppi 900.4 bridged
    Front stage: Two PWX 10s per door midbass only....... PRV 6MR500 midrange....... Massive CT 2 german tweeters.
    320 amp Singer alt....... 1 group 34 under the hood 6 group31 agms in the back 560 amp hours total.

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    Re: System Diagram Proof

    Quote Originally Posted by Jeffdachef View Post
    Stay clear away from audiocontrol lc6i is the same garbage as the lc2i, The only audiocontrol product that would qualify is the DM-608

    audison bit one/bit ten, helix dsp, arc audio ps8, hertz h8, alpine pxa 800, mini dsp, rockford dsr1 etc....
    Crystal Clear... Thank you for saving me some time and money




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    Re: System Diagram Proof

    Quote Originally Posted by robert J View Post
    With the NVX 5 Ch I could run 2ohm rear doors for more RMS power and still use my 4ohm components up front yes?

    or does the amp need to have all four channels the same ohm resistance?
    wouldn't get kicker anything (maybe amp) i'd put more power to sub/s than 250 fs nvx 5 channel is probably like the ppi phantom 5 channel so that would be better.. u can run diff ohm loads on the 4 channels but u want more power up front not in rear most of us don't even use rear speakers.. i'd get a 500-800rms mono amp (u can get gain lower) but if u want better sub/s later u would have more power ready., and a 100x2 channel for fronts run factory rears off hu (faded mostly to front)



    KENWOOD X301 HU, PRECISION POWER Phantom 1000, FU 750 12, 2.1cfad ported, soundqubed 6.5" coax/doors, hp & lp xover on hu, AGM starting batt...
    Quote Originally Posted by Boomin_tahoe View Post
    2 ohms rule
    Quote Originally Posted by Popwarhomie View Post
    Shit Ill sleep with you if you do that for me..

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