Ok, a few people recommending I change my Sub to Daytons.
First, they aren't easy to find info on. Express-parts seems to be a big supplier of them but their website is not giving me the info.. so I'm using cached pages from google and finding info.
Few problems with the Daytons.
They are higher power requirement.. Often double or near double the RMS requirement. IE: 600 Watt RMS requirement, vs the JL 10" which is max 300ish .
Then a second problem which is more of a problem than the first. I am without ANY doubt going to use this custom enclosure:
Nissan 350z Vehicle Specific Sub Enclosure 1-10"
You can see the specs -- .66 Cubic feet.. and MOUNTING depth is 5.25inch.
The JL's fit fine,.. the Daytons just don't. Most aren't even close with their magenet length.. smallest 10" sub for a car I've found so far is 5.37",.. still .12" too long.
Remember guys I don't want to get carried away too much with this build.. My original budget was $350.. (Quickly discovered I wasn't going to get close with that..) -- Bumped it to $500.
Now I'm willing to settle for INSTALLED $950.
I know, install it myself. (And I just may given the money savings.. but if I can get a quality shop with a quality experienced installer to do the install for $200 or so.. I'm going to take it. ) -- It's not about learning for me.. I actually know how to hook this stuff up.. it's the tearing the fragile interior apart and the frustration of running thick gauge wires through very tight spots that I just don't want to deal with to be honest. I will be using at least a 4 Gauge wire from the Battery.. Maybe larger.. Can't ever go wrong with a bigger Battery wire into a very good Fuse box/system. But, 4 Gauge should handle my power requirements just fine I'd think.
So,.. if you can find a 10" Dayton that runs closer to 350-450 watts.. (Ideally 400 watts given the amp I have picked) -- AND mounts with a depth at or less than 5.25" -- Please , by all means, link it fo rme.
If I end up NOT going with Dayton do to such physical limitations,.. the JL Sub is not going to dissapoint me. I know their sound.. Remember the whole idea here is a VERY poor 18 watt rms, 40 watt peak 4 speaker setup in a 350Z (Sounds HORRIBLE).. to get it sounding like the premium system for example at minimum.. and 50% better at maximum. I don't want overpowering bass,.. but I think with my enclosure pick,.. firing UP in that sealed over "cubby hole" Already in a box as well that is exactly the dimensions of the hole.. The bass will be just right, probably a touch on the "too much" or "More than I need" side.. but that's all adjustable quite easily.
Seems to be coming along
"When I listen to a stereo loudspeaker playback in my room and an auditory scene has formed in my mind, how would I know that what I hear is an accurate replica of an auditory scene that could be had at the recording venue? Or more generally, that this is an auditory scene that could have existed at all?"
So the build is still :
I guess next is figuring out Install.. then ordering.Doors/Front Speaker/Stage = CDT CL-61-CV 6.5" Mids with the .75" Tweeters going in the Window Sail panels (Both are factory size, and will replace factory speakers directly.) -- The high mounted tweeters should bring up the sound stage well. Speakers are 100 Watts RMS a piece. $180
Cl-61cv - CDT Audio 6.5" Convertible Coaxial Component Speaker System | WoofersEtc
Head Unit = Pioneer AVH-P4100DVD AVH-P4100DVD - In-Dash Double-DIN DVD Multimedia AV Receiver with 7" Widescreen Display | Pioneer Electronics USA (Already installed).
Sub box = Custom Built box that fits exactly in the Factory slot where the Factory sub would go.
Nissan 350z Vehicle Specific Sub Enclosure 1-10"
Sub = JL Audio 10w0 (75-300 Watts RMS) JL's "optimal" range on their website is around 220-250 watts RMS. $110
The alternative here is an 8 Inch Sub.
This brings back the 8 or 10" argument. Money is going to be $100-$130 on sub regardless of which size. So if that budget on sub helps you give me a reason to go with one size over the other.. please do.
JL Audio 10W0v3-4 W0v3 Series 10" 4-ohm subwoofer at Crutchfield.com
Amp: CT Sounds - 4 Channel, 125watt RMS x 2 (for 100watt fronts).. and 380watts RMS (Bridged and stable at 4 ohms) for Sub. $225
Ct Sounds 125 4 Amp Amplifier 125W RMS 250W Max Class A B 4 Channel 2 Ohm | eBay
Given I have Headunit already -- that saves $500+ ... The total for those components comes to $615.
I contacted a local car audio shop.. "Audio Creations".. and the owner said for me to call him tomorrow.. as I left a long email, but was basically just asking what kind of price "ballpark" would he charge me to install the 2 fronts, the sub, and 1 amp (which is all it is).. and he said this will be lengthy.. so give me a call tomorrow.
I have a feeling he is going to try to get me to go with parts from his store if they sell audio components.. And that's ok if he is reasonable with prices OR has good installers and does the install free for 'me' considering he knows what I've found online and the price of 615 bucks.. But then again, I'm just one customer buying a $1000 or less total package.
We've talked about maybe installing this together.. but I was thinking of the numbers - and it's a 150 miles one way to you, even in same state.. So that'd be 300 miles.. About $60-70 dollars in gas in my sports car this is going in, plus a 4-5 hour drive. So, if I can find a 'trustworthy' installer,.. I'll pay 200.. hell, if good enough 300 for installing 2 fronts, a sub, and an amp.
I've even considered bringing it to Best buy with my parts and letting them install.
I know that sounds nuts -- but hear me out. Best buy's installs are priced high, but they have it all priced .. so I know I could get it installed sub 300$.. but between 200-300. Now, automatically I, and most, probably think Bestbuy = crap installs. However, I've been reading around on them... and they must be certified to even start working alone on a car,.. and some forums have dozens of best buy installers in them who went to school for it, etc. So, I don't think they are as bad as it would seem. It's always going to depend on what "guy" you get that day wherever you go.. even at the best places.. you can always get a lazy guy, tired guy.. who cuts corners, breaks some clips/pieces in the door.. Car rattles when you get it back.. door panels are "loose" etc. On the flip side, I've heard many people getting similar and better systems installed by bestbuy (that they didn't buy at bestbuy) and reporting they have taken off the door panels to do other work later.. and the quality of wiring and such was top notch,.. neat, no skimping on using crimps, ie: Soldering.. and small things like that, that add up in the long run.
Lastly on BestBuy -- They offer a lifetime warranty on their installs. So if they mess anything up on your car.. they pay to fix it.. no hassles. This warranty also covers the install. Say a speaker stops working or whatever.. you bring it in and they will fix it free.. Of course if it's blown , etc.. that's different.. but a wire that went bad, is loose,.. and so on.
The main two things for me are prices already out in front of you.. no guess work.. and they guarantee your car will have zero problems/defects from their installs.. so they scratch the door.. they are paying to get the door painted.. They break a clip in the door panel... guess what, they are buying a whole new door panel.. Plus some of their installers are really actually quiet experienced and credible.
Main reason *I* don't want to install it is not because I don't think I could.. but simply because I don't want to. I hate that kind of tedious work of wiring in tight spaces. Nothing wrong with paying a pro with the tools to install just for 'convenience'. On the flip, I may have to **** it up and install myself if the budget doesn't support installation cost.
What would you guys "Ballpark/rough guess" The install of my system would be? The headunit is already in -- The install consists of 2 Fronts, Sub (I would have already put in box..) and one amp. It's not much when you list it like that.