lol! Gee thanks.
i believe you
I'd really, really like to put that sub in the factory spot -- but I keep reading it really REALLY reduces the quality of the sub firing out at the back of the seat.. I bet a JL 8" sub would fit in that box I linked with airspace..Right, I'm no expert, but it is a basic concept. I'd try my best to make sure the sub matches the enclosure.
But.. Now that I"m thinking about it,.. when I start this stuff,.. I ALWAYS end up doing more than I started off thinking. So I'm gonna say 10" JL Audio Sub and in a PROPER sized box facing rear. This box will work.. as they will customize the boxes "air space" if you give them the specs of your sub.
Zenclosures 350Z 1 10" Type 2 Sub Subwoofer Box New | eBay
IE: Going with this JL Sub.. 10WØv3-4 - Car Audio - Subwoofer Drivers - WØv3 - JL Audio ($100)
And JL provides a good explanation of RMS power for the sub:
10WØv3-4 - Car Audio - Subwoofer Drivers - WØv3 - JL Audio
Looks like "Optimum" RMS power for that sub is 200-250watts.
So here's an Alpine 250watt Mono Amp for $109 -- Alpine MRV-M250 (mrvm250) 250W Mono Block V-Power Subwoofer
Anything wrong with that brand/amp? For that sub?
Trust me, I'm not going at anything beyond "moderate".. really.. I have no need to show it off.. and my ears don't want to hear music at 100dB's+..At moderate volume levels, 75 watts s be enough.
So Apparently you say we can run the MB Quarts and have TWO sets of tweeters going (one on the Quartz, and one on the tweeter components I buy for the a-pillars) -- So let's say I bought these "mid range" tweeters..
Rockford Fosgate Prime R1T-S 1" Mylar balanced dome tweeters at Crutchfield.com
Now,.. I need a second amp to run 75x2 for MB Quarts and the ability to run 40-50wattsx2 for the Tweeters.. (can you dial down amp channels to less wattage? Probably hard to find a 4 channel amp that's 75 on two channels and 40-50 on two other channels..)
Man this amp would ALMOST work.. for the upper tweeters,.. and the MB Quart coaxials.. Pioneer GM-A6604 (gma6604) 360W RMS 4-Channel GM Series
It's 60 watts x 4 Channels.. Really, it "would" work.. as you can run slightly under the rated RMS.. it would be 20 watts over the tweeters RMS rating and 10 watts under the MB Quarts RMS rating.
Almost seems like with tweeters you are going to need 3 amps. I'm seeing a pattern.. each set of speakers you add (be it one or two..) = Another amp.
Amps need to come with a little more variety.
Or at least say make a 4 channel amp at 4 ohms that pushes say 100 watts x 4 -- be "adjustable" where you could make channels 1 and 2 run at 75% power.. aka: 75 watts.. and Channels 3 and 4 run at 40 or 50% power.. for the tweeters. (I don't suppose you can "adjust" amps to lower RMS power per channel?
Not an issue here -- I'm going one sub.. period. Not 2, not 3.. not 0.. but 1 -- It shall be a 10" it seems,.. as 8" seems around the same price range, and it seems a little silly to spend roughly the same money for an 8, when you can do the same with a 10" which is still small enough to have the recoil/reaction time to play fast music/rock music (unlike say 15's.. and even 12's aren't as responsive as 10's and smaller)..A single sub on each channel, each channel will see 4 ohms.
A single sub bridged, the amp will see 4 ohms bridged.
2 subs bridged , the amp will see 4 ohms.
It also depends if the sub is svc or dvc, and how you wire then...
Oh, and I remember when I added a crossover (just a cheap one.. I see them out there with a "bass knob" now for $60 -- We could run that bass knob up near the cupholders and empty switches where the higher 350z's have buttons (but mine has blank spots lol) -- and flush mount it in one of those for an on the fly "bass" level. OR, not go to the hassle, and just put the Crossover in an accessible location to adjust as needed. I like crossovers cause it lets you fine tune your speakers to really get them into the right levels.
While headunits are nice ,.. Cross-overs let you fine tune much more accurately and precisely and aren't extremely expensive.
So you getting the picture in your head of what this thing is going to look like yet?
Here's the car btw if you've wondered lol..
Hrmm.. well that makes amps with WAY more power RMS than the speaker needs a "good" thing ? Meaning I can run a 100 watt channel on a 70watt speaker and it won't damage it? Fill me in!however much headroom you can afford, the better.
If your willing.. and you seem to have experience installing -- I'm sure we could work something out where you install,.. I am your "helper" essentially.. and we get it done in an afternoon (depending on how fast we are)
You live in Alabama, maybe you'd want a side job for some cash
Maybe we could work something out
If we do this.. then I can expand to get all of the above mentioned items (though we'll refine the amps) -- and Then you can tell me what wiring "kit" and fuse box etc to order and I throw it all in the hatch.. and we get it done.
An install like this would take you (us).. like what 4-6 hours maybe? I guess it all depends on how familiar you are with car stereo installs and how many 'tricks' you have up your sleeve for getting the time consuming part of the task done.. which I assume is probably running wires through tight places?