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    a good read on volts and hertz

    How Electricity Makes Volts & Hertz | eHow


    It makes sense now why your ground wire is equally important to the positive wire.



    Head Unit Pioneer P99RS
    3 Runs of 1/0 OFC Power and 3 Runs of 1/0 OFC Ground
    1 XS Power D3400 & 2 XS Power XP3000 with Copper Bus Bars
    380 Amp & 320 Amp Iraggi Alternators(One is a chevy case, the other ford)
    RD 7500.1 running 2 12 inch SPLaudio (AA Mayhem motors/baskets)
    Tuned to 36 hertz. About 4.5 cubic feet, 8" Aeroport (made by dbeez)
    Zed Audio Leviathan III on Morel MDT-29, RS100-4 & RS225-8 Daytons
    Alex Jones www.infowars.com Endgame, Obama Deception, Truth Rising,
    Fluoride in the water, poison in vaccines, chemical trails in the skyglobal
    elite banks run our government towards a one world global government.

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    Re: a good read on volts and hertz

    yes it's not understood enough by people- they should be treated equally. classic physics can actually interpret the negative wire to carry the energy carriers to your energy consumer- which is opposite of intuition.



    4x 12" HDC3's
    1x Hifonics Maxximus (rated 10,000@1ohm)
    2x Powermaster D3100
    8x runs of 0 gauge
    1x stock alt

    155.2 dB legal (vehicle off and @50Hz) in a Ford exploder

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    Re: a good read on volts and hertz

    I didn't check the link out yet, but yes. Your entire electrical can be worthless without the same quality - as +. Some people don't know this, but most of us on here do. If you use 1/0 for power and 8 gauge for ground, your 1/0 is completely worthless as you will only be able to use as much power as your 8 gauge ground.
    Electricity is not point A to point B, its point A to point B back to point A. it is a circuit or loop, not a straight connection. Your ground affects your positive and vise versa.




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    Re: a good read on volts and hertz

    Question

    I have 1 run of 0/1 from front to back with Big 3. In the trunk I have 2 batteries both same kind and size. Last battery is grounded to chassis with 2 0/1 short cables . I'm running 2 12's and an AB120.1 and.solo. adding a 180amp alt. .

    Do you see my electrical up to par?



    Refs .. VisceralSound...Dtrom...Jes 42...

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    Re: a good read on volts and hertz

    Quote Originally Posted by HomeGrown View Post
    Question

    I have 1 run of 0/1 from front to back with Big 3. In the trunk I have 2 batteries both same kind and size. Last battery is grounded to chassis with 2 0/1 short cables . I'm running 2 12's and an AB120.1 and.solo. adding a 180amp alt. .

    Do you see my electrical up to par?
    I'd say so. Not sure with the 120.1 does for power? 1200?



    Head Unit Pioneer P99RS
    3 Runs of 1/0 OFC Power and 3 Runs of 1/0 OFC Ground
    1 XS Power D3400 & 2 XS Power XP3000 with Copper Bus Bars
    380 Amp & 320 Amp Iraggi Alternators(One is a chevy case, the other ford)
    RD 7500.1 running 2 12 inch SPLaudio (AA Mayhem motors/baskets)
    Tuned to 36 hertz. About 4.5 cubic feet, 8" Aeroport (made by dbeez)
    Zed Audio Leviathan III on Morel MDT-29, RS100-4 & RS225-8 Daytons
    Alex Jones www.infowars.com Endgame, Obama Deception, Truth Rising,
    Fluoride in the water, poison in vaccines, chemical trails in the skyglobal
    elite banks run our government towards a one world global government.

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    Re: a good read on volts and hertz

    Quote Originally Posted by jockhater2 View Post
    I'd say so. Not sure with the 120.1 does for power? 1200?
    2200



    Refs .. VisceralSound...Dtrom...Jes 42...

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    Re: a good read on volts and hertz

    Quote Originally Posted by HomeGrown View Post
    2200
    You'll probably be fine. It's always hard to say. Depends on how much accessories your car has to run. Voltage will tell you when you install it all. I wouldn't go below 12.6v ever. And try to stay above 13.



    Head Unit Pioneer P99RS
    3 Runs of 1/0 OFC Power and 3 Runs of 1/0 OFC Ground
    1 XS Power D3400 & 2 XS Power XP3000 with Copper Bus Bars
    380 Amp & 320 Amp Iraggi Alternators(One is a chevy case, the other ford)
    RD 7500.1 running 2 12 inch SPLaudio (AA Mayhem motors/baskets)
    Tuned to 36 hertz. About 4.5 cubic feet, 8" Aeroport (made by dbeez)
    Zed Audio Leviathan III on Morel MDT-29, RS100-4 & RS225-8 Daytons
    Alex Jones www.infowars.com Endgame, Obama Deception, Truth Rising,
    Fluoride in the water, poison in vaccines, chemical trails in the skyglobal
    elite banks run our government towards a one world global government.

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    Re: a good read on volts and hertz

    Quote Originally Posted by HomeGrown View Post
    Question

    I have 1 run of 0/1 from front to back with Big 3. In the trunk I have 2 batteries both same kind and size. Last battery is grounded to chassis with 2 0/1 short cables . I'm running 2 12's and an AB120.1 and.solo. adding a 180amp alt. .

    Do you see my electrical up to par?

    no it's not



    4x 12" HDC3's
    1x Hifonics Maxximus (rated 10,000@1ohm)
    2x Powermaster D3100
    8x runs of 0 gauge
    1x stock alt

    155.2 dB legal (vehicle off and @50Hz) in a Ford exploder

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    Re: a good read on volts and hertz

    Quote Originally Posted by PSturmer View Post
    no it's not
    Could you elaborate?



    Refs .. VisceralSound...Dtrom...Jes 42...

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    Re: a good read on volts and hertz





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    Re: a good read on volts and hertz

    Quote Originally Posted by HomeGrown View Post
    Could you elaborate?

    currently you are relying on your chassis as your negative wire. in small systems this is fine, because V=I*R, and when I (the current being drawn for amp) is small, then V (the voltage drop between the negative terminal on your amp and the negative terminal on your battery) is also small. here R represents the resistance of your chassis. now in any car audio system the above V should be minimized, because this voltage is representative of wasted power (essentially going to heating up your chassis).

    now in large car audio system "I" from above is also large, making "V" larger. to remedy this issue people make "R" smaller by instead of using the chassis as there negative wire, simply running a 0 gauge wire. furthermore, beyond the above considerations it is also desirable to have the same resistance in the negative and positive connections to the amplifier. that is why people will have the same number of positive and negative runs of wire. in competition it is not uncommon to see 8 runs of positive, and 8 runs of negative 0 gauge wires running from front to back- the high number of runs is to lower the effective "R" as much as possible.

    so in your case this is how i would wire the system: 2 runs of 0 gauge from front to back, one is + and one is -. then have small gauge (like 12 or 10) + and - running from back batteries up to headunit. this helps prevent any ground loop issues and also makes it unnecessary to connect the rear batteries to the chassis. under the hood your good with the big 3. but now since your wiring your car audio electrical on top of your cars eleectrical, instead of integrating it with the chassis, one of the big 3 connections isn't as important- the one going from the negative battery terminal to the chassis. in the systems i've done i've just upgraded the + and - from the alt to the battery.



    4x 12" HDC3's
    1x Hifonics Maxximus (rated 10,000@1ohm)
    2x Powermaster D3100
    8x runs of 0 gauge
    1x stock alt

    155.2 dB legal (vehicle off and @50Hz) in a Ford exploder

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    Re: a good read on volts and hertz

    Quote Originally Posted by PSturmer View Post
    currently you are relying on your chassis as your negative wire. in small systems this is fine, because V=I*R, and when I (the current being drawn for amp) is small, then V (the voltage drop between the negative terminal on your amp and the negative terminal on your battery) is also small. here R represents the resistance of your chassis. now in any car audio system the above V should be minimized, because this voltage is representative of wasted power (essentially going to heating up your chassis).

    now in large car audio system "I" from above is also large, making "V" larger. to remedy this issue people make "R" smaller by instead of using the chassis as there negative wire, simply running a 0 gauge wire. furthermore, beyond the above considerations it is also desirable to have the same resistance in the negative and positive connections to the amplifier. that is why people will have the same number of positive and negative runs of wire. in competition it is not uncommon to see 8 runs of positive, and 8 runs of negative 0 gauge wires running from front to back- the high number of runs is to lower the effective "R" as much as possible.

    so in your case this is how i would wire the system: 2 runs of 0 gauge from front to back, one is + and one is -. then have small gauge (like 12 or 10) + and - running from back batteries up to headunit. this helps prevent any ground loop issues and also makes it unnecessary to connect the rear batteries to the chassis. under the hood your good with the big 3. but now since your wiring your car audio electrical on top of your cars eleectrical, instead of integrating it with the chassis, one of the big 3 connections isn't as important- the one going from the negative battery terminal to the chassis. in the systems i've done i've just upgraded the + and - from the alt to the battery.
    "then have small gauge (like 12 or 10) + and - running from back batteries up to headunit"

    I don't get that part. Connecting your HU directly to your back battery?



    Head Unit Pioneer P99RS
    3 Runs of 1/0 OFC Power and 3 Runs of 1/0 OFC Ground
    1 XS Power D3400 & 2 XS Power XP3000 with Copper Bus Bars
    380 Amp & 320 Amp Iraggi Alternators(One is a chevy case, the other ford)
    RD 7500.1 running 2 12 inch SPLaudio (AA Mayhem motors/baskets)
    Tuned to 36 hertz. About 4.5 cubic feet, 8" Aeroport (made by dbeez)
    Zed Audio Leviathan III on Morel MDT-29, RS100-4 & RS225-8 Daytons
    Alex Jones www.infowars.com Endgame, Obama Deception, Truth Rising,
    Fluoride in the water, poison in vaccines, chemical trails in the skyglobal
    elite banks run our government towards a one world global government.

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    Re: a good read on volts and hertz

    Quote Originally Posted by jockhater2 View Post
    "then have small gauge (like 12 or 10) + and - running from back batteries up to headunit"

    I don't get that part. Connecting your HU directly to your back battery?
    yes. it is best for your entire car audio system to draw from the same power source location. the reason for this links back to what i was discussing befroe about the voltage difference across different parts of your ground (something undesirable). it is best that the negative wire coming out of your head unit is at the same voltage potential as the negative lead of your amp; this can be achieved by connecting the head unit directly to the back battery (because the back battery is at the same voltage as the amp inputs)

    i discovered the significance of this issue when i kept blowing the ground on the pre-amp in my head unit. this happened because the ground of the HU was at a different voltage than the ground of the amp.

    if you are having no issues with how your deck is currently wired then you need not necessarily change it. i am just simply describing the best way to wire an electrical system.



    4x 12" HDC3's
    1x Hifonics Maxximus (rated 10,000@1ohm)
    2x Powermaster D3100
    8x runs of 0 gauge
    1x stock alt

    155.2 dB legal (vehicle off and @50Hz) in a Ford exploder

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    Re: a good read on volts and hertz

    Quote Originally Posted by PSturmer View Post
    yes. it is best for your entire car audio system to draw from the same power source location. the reason for this links back to what i was discussing befroe about the voltage difference across different parts of your ground (something undesirable). it is best that the negative wire coming out of your head unit is at the same voltage potential as the negative lead of your amp; this can be achieved by connecting the head unit directly to the back battery (because the back battery is at the same voltage as the amp inputs)

    i discovered the significance of this issue when i kept blowing the ground on the pre-amp in my head unit. this happened because the ground of the HU was at a different voltage than the ground of the amp.

    if you are having no issues with how your deck is currently wired then you need not necessarily change it. i am just simply describing the best way to wire an electrical system.
    Hmmm. That honestly makes a lot of sense. I might have to do that. I will add it to my "to do" list for my car. It isn't asking for much since my HU isn't even in. and Neither are the door speakers or the wiring for them. so either way I have to run wire to that back of the car.

    Nice find on that!



    Head Unit Pioneer P99RS
    3 Runs of 1/0 OFC Power and 3 Runs of 1/0 OFC Ground
    1 XS Power D3400 & 2 XS Power XP3000 with Copper Bus Bars
    380 Amp & 320 Amp Iraggi Alternators(One is a chevy case, the other ford)
    RD 7500.1 running 2 12 inch SPLaudio (AA Mayhem motors/baskets)
    Tuned to 36 hertz. About 4.5 cubic feet, 8" Aeroport (made by dbeez)
    Zed Audio Leviathan III on Morel MDT-29, RS100-4 & RS225-8 Daytons
    Alex Jones www.infowars.com Endgame, Obama Deception, Truth Rising,
    Fluoride in the water, poison in vaccines, chemical trails in the skyglobal
    elite banks run our government towards a one world global government.

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