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    Need Some Help

    Alright so I have been searching around the forums for months now trying to build a system.

    I have a Kenwood DDX-418 head unit and 2 pairs of bargain 6.5 coaxial speakers
    I have KnuKoncepts 4 gauge OFC wire (can upgrade if needed)

    I have a budget of about 650 for the sub/subs and amp

    I was looking at the Alpine MRX-M110 for the amp, but I think there might be better out there for $275 (Alpines Amazon Price)

    I was looking for something 2 ohm stable preferably

    So I need suggestions on the amp

    Then the subs I were looking at

    -2 Alpine SWR-1223D
    -2 Rockford Fosgate P3D2-12
    -2 Image Dynamics IDQ12v3 D2
    -1 Rockford Fosgate T1D4-12


    And do I want a nice Cap or second battery
    I plan on doing a big 3 upgrade as well

    I drive a 98 Maxima so the trunk is fairly good sized
    I plan on building a custom ported box

    I am open to any and all suggestions







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    Re: Need Some Help

    I'd say two IDQs on a PPI P1000.1. You can get the PPIs from @trumpet ; for CHEAP right now and it'll be rock solid power and gentle on your electrical (letting you keep the 4ga OFC.

    You should be fine with just the Big 3 going that way, too.



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    Re: Need Some Help

    On a single PPI1000.1? The IDQs are 750rms each

    Edit
    ***Just saw "PPIs"***

    So are the PPIs a solid amp I have heard good opinions but never heard from someone with 1st hand experience




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    Re: Need Some Help

    That's max RMS. They'll do more than fine on 500 each. Heck, on 250 each, they'll still get down. You don't always have to match to max RMS.



    Deck: JVC KD-A95BT
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    Amps: Boston Acoustics GT-2125, Zed Minotaur III (x2)
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    Re: Need Some Help

    Which model ppi 1000.1
    And does ppi make an amp rated at 1200 rms at 2 ohm




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    Re: Need Some Help

    Quote Originally Posted by Plante11 View Post
    Which model ppi 1000.1
    And does ppi make an amp rated at 1200 rms at 2 ohm
    Close, the BK1800.1D at 1,100 Watts at 2 Ohms.




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    Re: Need Some Help

    I was referring to the Phantom, so the P1000.1. They also have a Sedona series that does 1300 at 2ohms, but it's a little bigger than the phantom. Sounds like you don't have an issue with space, so either would be a good option. Here's the links on both:

    Precision Power PPI S2000.1D (S20001D) Class D Monoblock Car Amplifier/Amp
    Precision Power PPI P1000.1 (p10001) Monoblock Phantom Car Amplifier

    Just realized, why are you looking at ratings at 2 ohms? Two of the IDQs can only wire to 1 or 4 ohms if you get he 4ohm DVC. You'd need dual 2 to end up at 2 ohms.



    Deck: JVC KD-A95BT
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    Re: Need Some Help

    Quote
    Then the subs I were looking at

    -2 Alpine SWR-1223D
    -2 Rockford Fosgate P3D2-12
    -2 Image Dynamics IDQ12v3 D2
    -1 Rockford Fosgate T1D4-12


    All these subs can be wired to 2ohm




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    Re: Need Some Help

    Bah good call. For some reason, I thought you put up the D4.



    Deck: JVC KD-A95BT
    Speakers: PHD FB mid, JBL MS tweets
    Amps: Boston Acoustics GT-2125, Zed Minotaur III (x2)
    Sub: 10" SSA ICON, IA Death Penalty 18" (coming soon)
    Starr Mountain Sound Nuthugger #2 (I'm a #2 lol)
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    Re: Need Some Help

    Now the reason I was looking at 2 ohm subs was because I was told by a Crutchfield tech that wiring down to 1ohm was really bad for an amp for sq and heat reasons




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    Re: Need Some Help

    Don't believe everything the Crutchfield rep tells you. The real reason you look at 2 ohms vice 1 is that 2 ohms is less taxing on your electrical system. As the impedance gets lower on the amp, it's allowed to suck up more power from the battery and then, in turn, from the alternator. Too much of this and you can risk damaging the alt. When you're talking about 1000W, though, you should be safe and sound. Also, the heat is more of a concern on Class A/B amps since they get rid of their inefficiency more so in heat than anything else. Class D is not as prone to this issue.

    Honestly, two of those IDQs on that Sedona 2000.1 should be PLENTY. You will most likely not even need to set your gains close to rated RMS to get the most out of that setup.



    Deck: JVC KD-A95BT
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    Amps: Boston Acoustics GT-2125, Zed Minotaur III (x2)
    Sub: 10" SSA ICON, IA Death Penalty 18" (coming soon)
    Starr Mountain Sound Nuthugger #2 (I'm a #2 lol)
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    Re: Need Some Help

    Could you maybe send me in the direction of a ported box design. I have an idea I just wanna make sure the idea is plausable




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    Re: Need Some Help

    West's Oak Creation

    This was actually designed for an IDMAX, but the IDQs would be just as at home in this enclosure. Keep in mind that for the same sub, a ported box will have a larger volume than a sealed, but the tradeoff is a much lower bass extension. You may have to EQ out a bit of a peak at the tuning frequency, but shouldn't be too hard if you have an EQ with more than 8 points (or if you have a parametric).



    Deck: JVC KD-A95BT
    Speakers: PHD FB mid, JBL MS tweets
    Amps: Boston Acoustics GT-2125, Zed Minotaur III (x2)
    Sub: 10" SSA ICON, IA Death Penalty 18" (coming soon)
    Starr Mountain Sound Nuthugger #2 (I'm a #2 lol)
    dcarcustoms Nuthugger #1
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    Re: Need Some Help

    Any sub suggestions other than what ive mentioned




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    Re: Need Some Help

    Sure. Here's several

    Adire Koda
    RE XXX (old version)
    Fi Q
    Dayton HO (AMAZING deal at around 150 each on parts express)

    Oviously some of those cost more than others, but are stunning performers. Just spend some time looking around this forum. Try to find @keep_hope_alive ; and look through his reviews as they're about as in-depth as you'll ever find.



    Deck: JVC KD-A95BT
    Speakers: PHD FB mid, JBL MS tweets
    Amps: Boston Acoustics GT-2125, Zed Minotaur III (x2)
    Sub: 10" SSA ICON, IA Death Penalty 18" (coming soon)
    Starr Mountain Sound Nuthugger #2 (I'm a #2 lol)
    dcarcustoms Nuthugger #1
    Spotify: http://open.spotify.com/user/neo_styles/playlist/6t9ru42j0wbEsuo4bXqXD8
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