Re: hopefully someone has an easy fix for me
Rears aren't necessary without rear passengers. If you want them anyway, run them from the deck. Also, unless you have passengers listening to them, cut off/down the treble from your rear speakers from 10kHz down (even lower might be helpful). Keep the volume of the rears as low as possible so they are only just audible. Most of the music should come from the front.
Also keep in mind the more power you run, the more there's a tradeoff between output and low frequency extension. The more output you want, the higher you need the highpass filter on the speakers to be for them to be able to handle what you're asking. If you want to actually run that 160W to just about any front speaker, you will need to highpass at like 100+Hz, or you WILL be blowing speakers if your music has bass (and I don't mean bass test music only, either). With lower powers 60-80Hz should be attainable. Some people claim to be running 400w to their fronts. For those using ANY speaker in stock locations, that's BS - they may have an amp capable of 400w, but they have probably never even peaked over 100W to them. My Helix Dark Blue 4 at 60WRMS could fry my Rainbow Profi Kick 6.5" woofers EASILY highpassed at 80Hz. It could also do the same for the Dayton RS180-4s. Point of this paragraph: Be careful if you're trying to run that 160W to your fronts. Edit to note: I suppose it would probably be more like 80-100W at 4 ohms, but still, that can blow most speakers, so be careful.
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