Brand new to this audio game. Looking for suggestions?

[cynic]

Well, the sedan version of the 2013 model has 12.8 cubic feet of trunk space, though I wouldn't want to completely take it up or anything.

[blobb454]

I'd also try to stick with stock surrounds, but... I can guarantee that ford did not put any decent quality speakers in that car.. I'd suggest something like a single 15" but my concern would be you'd flood out any other sounds such as highs. As stated I'm sure your not hitting the comp lanes but still don't think you want just bass... Keep the stock head unit for now. Saves you money and will be ok until your ready. As for amp... Stick with quality. Search this place! There are soo many topics on amps and subs its ridiculous. Shop the classifieds here too. Consider 8"s as well!

[NuckinFutz]

I'm 17 and have two diamond 10s in a custom ported box. Sealed made them Shh there pants with the loudness and clarity. Can't wait till the get a chance to hear the ported. The difference blew my mind.

[gckless]

One 12 or two 10's would be great to get decently loud and not take up that much space including amps. I had 2 10's in my trunk, and it would impress the shit out of your friends, and sound good when you didn't want all that volume. Don't forget electrical upgrades in your cost depending on the size of amp(s) you run.

But trust me, over time, you get used to the volume, and suddenly you're back here asking how many batteries will support a 5k amp. Lol.

[neo_styles]

Don't pass up the idea of the Dayton HO for your subs. They cost about 130 each and don't need much volume at all sealed or ported, so you won't be losing your boot space. Feed each one 500-600 watts and you'll be good to go.

For the speakers, I would just run a front stage (still waking up so I'm not sure if this was mentioned earlier). This will let you spend a bit more on a really good set of comps and a separates amp. I run the jbl ms62c but have heard amazing things about the focal integration series when it comes to sq, for starters.

For the size and price, I think PPI scored one out of the park with the Phantom series amps. Under 200 each, gobs of power, and in a form factor small enough to fit under each seat. As for the wiring, knukonceptz has already received mention and I'm definitely impressed with what they had to offer. If you go with the cca kit instead of the ofc, you'll save a few extra bucks and IMO the difference is minimal for your setup. Also consider Audio Technix since the RCAs that come with the knu kits sometimes don't work out too well (it's really 50/50). That or just budget in for a good pair of RCAs (extra 20 bucks at max...find em in the classifieds here).

When you're ready to buy, hit up some of the vendors here. They'll definitely be willing to take care of you @mylows10 ;
@trumpet ;
@VertexAudio ;

[neo_styles]

Here's some links to my recommendations:

HU (170): Clarion CZ702 In-Dash CD/MP3 Car Stereo w/ Bluetooth & USB Port
Sub (125): Dayton RSS265HO-4 10" Reference HO Subwoofer 4 Ohm - Vertex Audio
Comps (180): JBL MS-62C (MS62C) 6-1/2" 2-Way MS Component Car Speakers System
Amp 1 (190): Precision Power PPI P900.4 (p9004) 4-Channel Phantom Car Amplifier
Amp 2 (190): Precision Power PPI P1000.1 (p10001) Monoblock Phantom Car Amplifier
Wiring (80): Audio Savings | Cadence FDA0+4K 0+4 Gauge Dual Amplifier Installation Multiple Amp Wire Kit
Extra RCA (7): Audio Savings | Cadence R17 17 Foot High Grade Twisted Pair RCA Cables w/ Split Pin Technology

Only thing really left is the sub enclosure. You could build it yourself and save some money or have someone else build one. If you go that route, make sure you trust who's building since an enclosure can make or break the sub stage. Especially when going ported, it should be built around the specific sub, the space it's going in, the power you will be giving it, and the music you listen to.

Sorry for the long-winded response. Hope it helped.

[trumpet]

Since you don't have the car yet you're going to want to decide if you want the Sync premium sound system. I don't have much experience with it but I can imagine it would help the resale value. The days of popping in a new head unit like it's mandatory are over. I would try a nice line out converter into a 4-channel amplifier on the stock speakers and add a small ported subwoofer system with a level adjustment knob to put in the dash.

There are some good options out there for a high quality LOC. The one I'd go with is the Cache COE6. Then I'd run a Precision Power P900.4 for the speakers. JBL MS-62C components fit into the stock locations. JBL P662 coaxials for the rear or use that money to improving the installation. By improving the installation I would put money into sound deadening. At least put on some vibration damper around the speakers and in the trunk where needed. You don't need to cover everything but just use good product selectively. My preferred vibration damper is Alpha Damp. It's currently on sale for 50% off at diyma.com.

A new product that I hope gains traction is the JBL MSBassPro SQ. This is a self-powered bass enclosure that's engineered on every level so the components perfectly compliment each other. It's about 2 feet wide by 1 foot tall and 1 foot deep so it doesn't take up much trunk space. It's also easy on your alternator but it puts out a hell of a lot of bass for only 300W RMS. I installed one in a Civic sedan for personal friends who are constantly listening to music and they love the sound quality.

Once you figure ~$150 for a good single sub, $75-100 for a custom ported box, ~$200 for a good amp you're already looking at the same price for the MSBassPro SQ. You can add the MS-WBC wireless bass knob to put up front.

COE6 ~$115 from me
P900.4 $200 shipped from me
MS-62C $200 from me
P662 $150 from me
MSBassPro SQ $450 from me
You're at $1125 for parts for a really nice balanced sounding system that will put a smile on your face every time. Add in your wiring kit of choice for a dual amplifier system(4 gauge) and labor. I'm confident you'd have a better setup than a lot of people.

[cynic]

Thanks for all the replies, guys.
Also, I take it bigger isn't always better when it comes to wattage?

[neo_styles]

Thanks for all the replies, guys.
Also, I take it bigger isn't always better when it comes to wattage?

Nope. Matter of fact, more wattage can mean you need to upgrade your electrical and believe me...when you see the cost of some HO alternators, you might want to poop your pants.

[Loudmp5]

Hey! So, I'm getting my first car soon -- a Ford Fiesta, but I'm waiting for the spring 2014 model release -- and my dad went on about how he did all this stuff to his car and how it was my turn to do such to mine. As such, I've got some money for well, modifications. I'd rather not go over $1000, and I've been asking around.

As a 16-year-old, all of my friends are about the same age and interested solely in volume. I'd rather get something with sound clarity as well. I've heard about Memphis subs and Kickers at school, but figured some veteran audiophiles could help me out?

Audio is NOT a game, its a way of life

[cynic]

? I can't tell if that post is sincere or not. I didn't have any intentions to offend anyone.

[mylows10]

i can help you with everything for your new system ,all new with full warranties in tact .prices would be shipped as well.

[BrownVanMan]

i have an elemtal designs 10 in a sealed box with an infinity 1600a amp for the sub a matching infinity 4ch for speakers. the box is custom built solid. i would sell you it all for 400 shipped. add nice speakers and wiring your at about 1k

[cynic]

Was just reading about mids. Would it be better to get mids instead of a sub?

[mylows10]

mids only play the mid frequencies ,of the vocals some guitars and such ,but they dont play the low notes that the subs play .if the issue is the size and space then look at 8" subs .