Poor man's electrical upgrade

[pro-rabbit]

I have a stock 140amp alternator in my car... at Idle it produces around 60-75amps... 1200rpm around 80-90amps
I have a 2k amp , 300 watt 2channel now... Big 3 done... my voltage drops to around 13.1 to 12.9 with that on idle... at 1200 rpm its around 13.4-13.5...
I have a single 75ah yellow top battery... battery is fused at 100... distro box 100/50 .... you are doing over kill dude..

Not every car is the same. So what works with one may or may not work for another. I'm not sure why this get rehashed all the time. It is pretty basic.

Your stock alternator is able to support you car and a little bit more with everything at max draw, that is how they are designed. Adding a second battery is a simple band-aid that will likely harm your stock alternator over time rather then saving it. Doing a "big 3" is a good start, but likely requiring an upgraded alt for any added current draw. Yes, that means if you had even a small amp the correct action would be to upgrade the alternator however as we all know that is not always the case and most of this industry simply "cheaps out" on the most important part of the mobile electronics, which to be honest I never understood. How can "we"(the people in this industry) go spend thousands on amps/subs and then buy the cheapest wire, batteries, and alt we can find thinking it will be "just fine" because member number X on a random forum claims to have it work for them....

Ok, I'm done venting a bit here...


Simple and correct answer is purchase an alternator to help support the upgrades of your system. Doing the big 3 is a nice start, as is using proper wire and fusing to help protect the electrical.

Remember, "over kill" does not apply to upgrading your electrical most of the time.

[cyn]

Not every car is the same. So what works with one may or may not work for another. I'm not sure why this get rehashed all the time. It is pretty basic.

Your stock alternator is able to support you car and a little bit more with everything at max draw, that is how they are designed. Adding a second battery is a simple band-aid that will likely harm your stock alternator over time rather then saving it. Doing a "big 3" is a good start, but likely requiring an upgraded alt for any added current draw. Yes, that means if you had even a small amp the correct action would be to upgrade the alternator however as we all know that is not always the case and most of this industry simply "cheaps out" on the most important part of the mobile electronics, which to be honest I never understood. How can "we"(the people in this industry) go spend thousands on amps/subs and then buy the cheapest wire, batteries, and alt we can find thinking it will be "just fine" because member number X on a random forum claims to have it work for them....

Ok, I'm done venting a bit here...


Simple and correct answer is purchase an alternator to help support the upgrades of your system. Doing the big 3 is a nice start, as is using proper wire and fusing to help protect the electrical.

Remember, "over kill" does not apply to upgrading your electrical most of the time.

I was referring to over kill for his fusing... Alternator is what needs to be upgraded. but I think with all the fusing he is doing its overkill..

[Groundpounder22]

Okay ive been reading this. Wont putting another battey on a stock alternator???

[Groundpounder22]

Put a heavier load on the alt? Srry for new commet. Phone messted up!

[Roland]

Okay ive been reading this. Wont putting another battey on a stock alternator???
Put a heavier load on the alt? Srry for new commet. Phone messted up!

Batteries are like water tanks, and the alternator is like a water pump.

Water tanks, only add storage capacity. So adding one does not increase the load on a pump.

Adding extra tanks does not help the pump out ether. If i drain one tank, 3 gallons, OR drain three tanks, 1 gallon, --- it's still 3 gallons for the pump.
Adding extra tanks only give you more time to drain water before the water level gets critical. (For a car critical level could be dimming lights, car not starting, overworking the alternator...)

(Maybe a little extra load could come from leakage. Bats & tanks do leak a little, so in that case adding one does add the very slightest extra load. If the tank/bat is older it leaks a little more so...)