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    Re: Get me down to 2 from this list...sub amp

    Is there a point at which you either go with quality watts vs quantity watts? I mean could a 700w amp be better then a 1200w amp thats just pushing a single or dual ported box?







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    Re: Get me down to 2 from this list...sub amp





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    Re: Get me down to 2 from this list...sub amp

    Quote Originally Posted by mclerico83 View Post
    MMATS Amplifier Class D D1600.0 1ohm stable | eBay

    here you go, american made 1150rms and one of the most effecient amps you can buy best deal for 300 out of any

    WoofersEtc.com - D1600.1 - Mmats 1 Ch 1600 Watt Amplifier
    msrp on them is 600 bucks
    11x8 inches
    I second the mmats ^^^^ awesome amps!!



    Bought From: itHertz, cdimic25, cwill5 Sold To: Bettr n' Revrse, Silver-n-Black, Supra94, ebay rating 100% with 139 feedbacks (dchap123)


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    Re: Get me down to 2 from this list...sub amp

    I am reading in other threads that I am doing it backwards and should be picking my sub first then matching the amp to the sub. In that case I am sure it will be either a SA 8/10/12 or SSA Gcon 10/12. I dont know what size I need but I do know I only want one to cut costs. Not sure who the choosing of D4 vs D2 works in relation to the amp though...total newb...

    In the beginning I didnt think there would be such a variety of choices for the size of amp I could fit...Now I know there are plenty...




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    Re: Get me down to 2 from this list...sub amp

    Quote Originally Posted by perferd View Post
    Is there a point at which you either go with quality watts vs quantity watts? I mean could a 700w amp be better then a 1200w amp thats just pushing a single or dual ported box?
    hmm..I think I see where you are going ... You mean like comparing the class g/h KS 300.2 bridged @ 700w to a 4 ohm load and the PPI class d @ 1000w on a 1 ohm load?
    Let's say you get the KS and bridge it to run one 12" sub in a ported box. I say this because with a good sub in a well designed ported box, you will see output gains of 6+ db possible vs. the same sub sealed. A 6 db gain is the equivalent of doubling power, all else being equal...you will need a sub capable of handling the 700+w rms at 4 ohms...This can be a Single Voice Coil (SVC) 4 ohm sub, a Dual Voice Coil (DVC) 8 ohm sub with the voice coils wired parallel or a DVC 2ohm sub with the voice coils wired in series.

    Take the same scenario with the PPI for 725+w rms at 2 ohms. You would use a 4 ohm DVC sub with the voice coils wired parallel. The PPI at 1000+w rms at 1 ohm
    you would use a 2 ohm DVC sub with the coils wired parallel.

    Have you given thought to electrical requirements?....




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    Re: Get me down to 2 from this list...sub amp

    Pretty much what I was getting at but not talking about the ohms thing. I just wasn't sure if you needed the same kind of quality watts I assume you need for component speakers...I might jot be making sense lol

    Hmmm...can good quality clean 700w be as good or better then 1200 dirty watts while pushing a sub regardless of ohms? Hope that makes sense. I don't know any better I just assume you need quality for components and just need power for subs...



    Electrical huh so what do I need to think about? Alt and batt? I am sure my batt is a stock durango battery and the alt is 160amps. If that's what you are talking about..




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    Re: Get me down to 2 from this list...sub amp

    Quote Originally Posted by perferd View Post
    Pretty much what I was getting at but not talking about the ohms thing. I just wasn't sure if you needed the same kind of quality watts I assume you need for component speakers...I might jot be making sense lol

    Hmmm...can good quality clean 700w be as good or better then 1200 dirty watts while pushing a sub regardless of ohms? Hope that makes sense. I don't know any better I just assume you need quality for components and just need power for subs...
    Yes, you are making sense. I have mixed feelings there. Subbass frequencies are non directional, whereas your tweeters are the most directional speakers..the mids are directional, but not as critical to the ear as the tweeter. I cross over my subs and midbass at 63hz. I use a class A/B that has very good specs and sounds awesome on my highs, an Avionixx 440.4...my current sub amp is a HiFonics Brutus BXI 1205D. Your sub choice and box design will have more impact on the overall sound than the sonic differences of any of the amps suggested in this thread. I know what you mean by dirty watts, but you have to realize that on the subs, 1% THD is nothing. Also, the reason many class D amps have a low S/N ratio is due to the high speed switching that makes them so efficient. This noise is normally @ 40-60Khz..wayy beyond the human hearing range, but not measurement range...I do like to see 80+ though..lol...

    The key to the whole deal is Headroom. Take the PPI at 1 ohm..it specs at 1000watts rms, on a test bench, you will probably see more like 1200 watts rms. With a sub wired to 1 ohm on this amp, the actual load the amp "sees" may never really reach 1ohm, due to some wire resistance and the ohm rise that happens because the sub is enclosed in a box and having to work harder to overcome compression effects that are non-existent in free-air space. Think of the sub as a resistor. A 4 ohm load has much more resistance than a 1 ohm load. If the amp is capable, it can transfer more current into the lower impedance. As I said, the impedance is going to be all over the place with music and 90% of the time with instrumental music, your amp will only be producing @ 50% or less power. The exception of transient bursts of power to reproduce the energy of a bass drum or the pluck of a low bass string....If you have 700 watts, you can realize about 250 - 350 watts continuous on most instrumental recordings..now you get into more bass intensive music that is made with more synthesized bass, such as rap, and you will be needing more power to reproduce the sub bass energy with transients at lower frequencies. This is why I say you really need to get some balls behind that sweet front stage you just bought.

    ..I would rather not need bass boost or worry about clipping my shit, than skimp out on putting some muscle in my system and constantly wish I had more energy in my music.


    Quote Originally Posted by perferd View Post
    Electrical huh so what do I need to think about? Alt and batt? I am sure my batt is a stock durango battery and the alt is 160amps. If that's what you are talking about..
    I would recommend getting a good AGM deep cycle battery for the front, the biggest that will fit, and doing the big 3...your alt should be fine on what you have been looking at here. These upgrades will assure good current transfer to your amps to keep them and your speakers healthy. As a side effect, it will also help to prevent any headlight dimming that commonly accompanies a decent 1000w + system on stock electrical.




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    Re: Get me down to 2 from this list...sub amp

    I thought I read or heard 1ohm is very hard to stay stable and should stick more to 2-4ohms?

    I keep hearing about the ppi at 1ohm for 1000 but the arc xdi does 1ohm 1150. Wouldn't that be better? Also I found that boston makes a bigger watt amp that still fits, the gta1000m which pushes 1000 @ 2ohms is that better having more control?

    The "big 3" is that 3 things or 1 thing called the "big 3"?




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    Re: Get me down to 2 from this list...sub amp

    You talk about headroom which brings up the Alpine MRX-M100 and M110 which are both 2ohms at 1000/1100watts. I didnt list them cause they were 13.5" but thats with the ends on and didnt know for sure if the Needed to be on???




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    Re: Get me down to 2 from this list...sub amp

    Quote Originally Posted by perferd View Post
    You talk about headroom which brings up the Alpine MRX-M100 and M110 which are both 2ohms at 1000/1100watts. I didnt list them cause they were 13.5" but thats with the ends on and didnt know for sure if the Needed to be on???
    The XDi1000 looks to be a pretty good amp It is close to the PPI in power, like you say. The PPI is underrated a bit too. You will not notice a 50 watt difference either way. The PPI seems to be much cleaner than anything else on the board. It operates 41 db quieter than the Arc XDi1000. The XDi has a S/N ratio of 65db, the PPI has a S/N of 106 db. The Alpine MRX110 sports a 117 db S/N and .04 THD at 600watt 4 ohm low frequency output, along with a low frequency dampening factor of 1000....and power is right on par with the XDi/PPI ...hmm..I like the Alpine MRX110, a lot.
    Alpine Electronics of America, Inc.
    Last edited by quackhead; 10-02-2012 at 08:36 PM.




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    Re: Get me down to 2 from this list...sub amp

    Quote Originally Posted by perferd View Post
    I thought I read or heard 1ohm is very hard to stay stable and should stick more to 2-4ohms?

    I keep hearing about the ppi at 1ohm for 1000 but the arc xdi does 1ohm 1150. Wouldn't that be better? Also I found that boston makes a bigger watt amp that still fits, the gta1000m which pushes 1000 @ 2ohms is that better having more control?

    The "big 3" is that 3 things or 1 thing called the "big 3"?
    Car Audio 101 - The Big 3 Upgrade Tutorial - YouTube

    Custom Big 3 kits in OFC and CCA




    "Bailout: Taking a trillion dollars from the people and giving it to the banks so the banks can loan it back to the people, at interest!"

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    Re: Get me down to 2 from this list...sub amp

    Quote Originally Posted by mclerico83 View Post
    MMATS Amplifier Class D D1600.0 1ohm stable | eBay

    here you go, american made 1150rms and one of the most effecient amps you can buy best deal for 300 out of any

    WoofersEtc.com - D1600.1 - Mmats 1 Ch 1600 Watt Amplifier
    msrp on them is 600 bucks
    11x8 inches
    being an mmats nutt hugger i am gonna agree




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    Re: Get me down to 2 from this list...sub amp

    Quote Originally Posted by perferd View Post
    I thought I read or heard 1ohm is very hard to stay stable and should stick more to 2-4ohms?

    I keep hearing about the ppi at 1ohm for 1000 but the arc xdi does 1ohm 1150. Wouldn't that be better? Also I found that boston makes a bigger watt amp that still fits, the gta1000m which pushes 1000 @ 2ohms is that better having more control?

    The "big 3" is that 3 things or 1 thing called the "big 3"?
    1 ohm is not very hard to stay stable at....u do go down in efficiency but stable? no anything under 1 u will loose stability if u dont kno what ur doing


    almost everyone on here runs 1 ohm daily.......




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    Re: Get me down to 2 from this list...sub amp

    Quote Originally Posted by quackhead View Post
    The XDi1000 looks to be a pretty good amp It is close to the PPI in power, like you say. The PPI is underrated a bit too. You will not notice a 50 watt difference either way. The PPI seems to be much cleaner than anything else on the board. It operates 41 db quieter than the Arc XDi1000. The XDi has a S/N ratio of 65db, the PPI has a S/N of 106 db. The Alpine MRX110 sports a 117 db S/N and .04 THD at 600watt 4 ohm low frequency output, along with a low frequency dampening factor of 1000....and power is right on par with the XDi/PPI at 2 ohms...hmm..I like the Alpine MRX110, a lot.
    Alpine Electronics of America, Inc.
    Thanks. Thats more along the lines of what I was talking about earlier as in the xdi and the pip put out the same power but that doesnt make them the same (dirty vs clean)...




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    Re: Get me down to 2 from this list...sub amp

    Quote Originally Posted by Imtjnotu View Post
    1 ohm is not very hard to stay stable at....u do go down in efficiency but stable? no anything under 1 u will loose stability if u dont kno what ur doing


    almost everyone on here runs 1 ohm daily.......
    Thanks thats good to know. But is it safe to assume if I can run at 2ohms its better/safer/more controlled?




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