My recommendation is:
Amp: Soundstream Rubicon RUB1.1000 can be bought for about $150 shipped for a refurb(your on a budget)
Sub: An Obsidian 12 dual 2ohm series to 4ohm at the amp for 600 watts RMS $138 + shipping
Box: build a 1.75cu.ft ported enclosure tuned to 32hz
StarrMountainSound Nuthugger Team Member #1
Your also gonna need the following:
Metra Dash Kit 99-2009
Metra OEM Harness 77-2003-1
Metra Antennae Adapter 40-GM10
Metra Amp Bypass Harness 70-2054
StarrMountainSound Nuthugger Team Member #1
So the OA12 D2 model, correct?
I wouldn't worry about an aftermarket head unit. The stock one will work fine for now until you can come up with some more cash down the road. That being said, if you can increase your budget to $500 I would recommend the following equipment.
Amp
POWERBASS ASA 600.1x AUTO SOUND SERIES MONOBLOCK AMPLIFIER AMP ASA600.1x NEW 823871003358 | eBay
Sub
SA-8 V2 D4 SUNDOWN AUDIO SUB 8" DVC 4 OHM V2 VERSION 2 SERIES SUBWOOFER NEW | eBay
Line output converter
STINGER SGN12 FIXED POWER LINE STEREO OUTPUT CONVERTER 609098797405 | eBay
Wiring kit
Cadence WK41 4 Gauge Complete Car Amplifier Installation Kit Amp Wire Kit | eBay
That comes out to just under $400, and I'm sure a box can be built by someone on here for around $100.
References- Team H&K, bpres9991, bumpin buick, 2002XLT, Lucid15, alex5857(x2), Fusion_FREAK, ls2poweredgoat, TeamPSI, VIPER118, dropped_mazda, lvfive.o, jbizzle, Junior22, CivicPower, Paaco1981, lostsuspect21, lilcarus, lrc131, us3, RidnClean, wu501, Worstenemy453, 9F-ckinThousand, bigdhenderson, witherman, Pieper, tymoto21, total mayhem, MutantDreams, mr b, Audio4ever

I got some good 12's FS. Could do one in a box for 190$ in person if you can meet me somewhere along my way to Mohegan Sun
FS/FT more Shocker Super Extreme 12's and 15 OEM d2 coils Carbon Fiber/Kevlar caps
Grab yourself one of the Audiopipe Mini APSM-1300 amps (around 100$ all over the place online), have 100$ left for wiring kit and line level converter (IMO you'd do best to keep factory HU until you can afford to replace and amp fronts if you have the factory Bose system)
You think an SA8 would be sufficient for such a large vehicle?
Thanks for the advice about the HU, both of you, good to keep in mind. Sorry I can't buy your subs, hispls, don't even have the car or the money now (going to other things as of now). I would like to though
.
these are meh.
yes x2
look into the audiopipe txbff line or eve candy line. lanzar max would also fit your budget and do ok. all about the enclosure
---------- Post added at 08:54 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:54 AM ----------
these are meh.
yes x2
look into the audiopipe txbff line or eve candy line. lanzar max would also fit your budget and do ok. all about the enclosure
---------- Post added at 08:54 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:54 AM ----------
these are meh.
yes x2
look into the audiopipe txbff line or eve candy line. lanzar max would also fit your budget and do ok. all about the enclosure

My suggestion is to stop thinking about doing it all at one time on that small a budget.
As Keith noted, forget about replacing the stock HU at this point, and follow the above advice on your sub+amp.
Sundown or Obsidian would be a solid choice for a single 12" sub, and Lanzar makes decent amps for someone on your budget, esp if you can find a used OPTI
Whether you buy new or used, understand that purchasing higher quality stuff now is the best way to go, for two reasons:
1) You get what you pay for , and you aren't going to be happy with the way cheap shizz performs, anyway; and,
2) A quality sub and amp will hold their value so that when you decide to sell and re-do (and you will), you can recoup most of your initial investment.
Refs: adamtwo4, basscort2009, burzendowski, clanassa, cthedinger, ikoolguy, its_bacon12, Jew_Bagel, jr711, kreapin, kowboy, Rudy, TheRealDefman, Winter_C
HU:Eclipse CD7200 MkII
Subs: Fack Skar Audio
Front comps: HAT Clarus C61-2 off Sony ES 7547
Electrical: C&D batt, Big 3 with 1/0, 4ga to amps, Stinger RCA’s
Damping: 60mil FG panels over holes, full worx from SDS
I have to agree with keeping the factory headunit for now. You can pickup a LOC(Line Out Converter) for fairly cheap. But if you have the Bose system you will need to run the LOC after the amplifier. So if the Tahoe already has a sub (can't remember if you said that in the first post) just connect the LOC at that location. This way you can concentrate the $400 budget on a sub, amp, box, and wiring. If it were me, I would slowly piece this together instead of trying to work with such a low budget. I would use the $400 to either buy a sub and enclosure or amp first. And then worry about buying other pieces when more money is available.
Right now I run an Obsidian 15d2 off of an RE Audio DTS1500.1 with RE components running off an RE Audio DTS750.2. I was working with a budget. The amps sat in my room for about 6 months until I bought my sub and had Dave the Box Guy build my enclosure. Then that sat for another 3 months until I had the money to buy my Pioneer DEH-80PRS. So I say take it in steps. You will be more glad that you did.
And just an FYI: This setup did a 143.2 on termlab. Not bad for a daily system running stock electrical.
StarrMountainSound Nuthugger Team Member #1
Yea, I'm definitely doing this in multiple steps, I don't even have my licence until around Christmas anyways, so the budget can probably go up a lot, I might be doing a part time job in the fall as well. I might just save up for an OA15 or something like that, I really want to make this purchase the only one for a couple years or so.
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