so 10 feet and what gauge? It will end up being about 3000 rms for my subs
so 10 feet and what gauge? It will end up being about 3000 rms for my subs
Well i don't know much about car audio at all. Im trying to learn. so that is why I'm asking so many questions

Gregulate thanked for this post
Okay thanks for all the advice
Okay thanks and what about wiring a 4 channel amp does it matter on RCA and power wire there?
I was comparing prices and i can get the Kicker 09PWG0-20FT for 80$ its Kicker 0 AWG. I had heard nothing but great things about it. And i would still have some to sell to my friend doing the Big 3 in his car

There are a lot of variables that can change how much/what kind of wires to use, but most important is safety and what end product you want ot end up with. I just did a big 3 upgrade in my friends Caprice and his main reason was the added fuse block that adds a certain level of security/safety for when his family rides with him. I wish I was able to drive yo meet you, but I am unable. if you ever get in or around Tupelo, let me know. I don't charge for help as long as you want to learn and promise to teach a friend or two![]()
Kenwood Xcelon Headunit
Boston Accoustics Front & Rear
Cadence United Series Vegas 4 Channel
Cadence S2W12-D2
Cadence United Series Dakota Mono Amp
Duralast 1,000 amp battery, X-Static 2,000 Amp Battery
Rockford Foagate 1/0 wire, and interconnects
Cadence shielded RCA wire
Dynamat sound deadening, Fatmat sound deadening
I want everything to be clean, work the way its suppose to and have great efficiency. may just buy an amp kit yes or no?

Wire is wire bro, as long as it's quality stuff, it doesn't matter who makes it. In most cases, with the short length of the Big 3 runs, 4 gauge is fine. to be safe, most people recommend 1/0, that's also fine. Kicker, Rockford, Stinger, Knu, Welding wire. If they're all OFC wire, they're all gonna do the same thing, just as well. Rockford and Kicker are gonna just be twice as much in cost. Personally, I bought my wire off another guy on here. got 10ft, fuse and holder, terminal lugs, for $25. If you insist upon buying new wire, I'd get the Knu Kolossus: KnuKonceptz - view products for category Kolossus Fleks Kable or the welding wire that was suggested before. Because you can buy them by the foot, and they're all equally good.
2009 Hyundai Elantra - Budget Sound in Progress
HU- Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X994
Fronts- Crescendo MP6 mids, Vifa Ring Radiator tweets on Arc KS300.4
Subs- Single SA-10 on Mmats 2000.1 @ 1ohm
Misc- 1/0 CCA from AT, Big 3 in Stinger HPM, and AT 60 mil deadener
Bought from: Inferno333, select127, treesive, Kangaroux, DonH
Sold to: coolest user, Psychodrama, MidgetClown, mr.tigger, av83

I used #1 Radnor welding cable it is rated for 350A and the guy said he had over 500A going thru it before with no problem so 3000 watts shouldn't be a problem if you go 1/0 but if your doing a 3000 watt amp you might want more than 10ft so you can run some back to the trunk / hatch. They have a minimum of 25ft rolls anyways at airgas but its the most flexible stuff I've ever used.
97 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0L Inline 6
Head Unit: Kenwood KDC-X895
Speakers: 6.5" Boston Acoustics SC65 (Front), 6.5" MB Quart DKD116 (Rear)
4ch Amp: Alpine mrv-f303
Sub Amp: AudioQue AQ2200D
Sub Woofers: None at the moment
Wiring: Big 3, Radnor #1 welding cable, Kolossus Fleks Kable 8 Gauge (4 ch)
RCA's: KnuKonceptz KARSS2.6M and KARSS4.6M
Batteries: Optima YellowTop (Main), XS Power D5100 (2nd)
I don't have to have name brand wire that doesn't matter to me. I am just asking some questions... I can do the welding wire but will probably buy it at a huge welding shop close to my house.
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