Re: Need a lil help all.
All the signal processors in the world can't help a bad set of speakers sound good. Your money will best be spent on a good set of components. The only place those speakers will be properly used is up front. The system is for your enjoyment so why should you be listening to the marginal quality Pioneers. Custom kickpanels will probably cost the same as custom door work in the back and will definitely be money better spent. If you don't want to do custom kicks, you can always just go with a 6 1/2" component set. A good set will be able provide good midbass response and still sound good through the rest of the frequency range. No real custom work required.
Originally Posted by TimberJon
I meant the 6 1/2 Pioneers you have in the doors. Replace them with either a good midbass in the door and components in the kickpanels or a good component set in the doors.
1) Ditch the Pioneer front speakers/...
>>sounds like a plan. you meant ditch the 6x9s i was thinking about getting right? not the ones in the back. and get component sets custom mounted in my kickpanels. i like it. rear doors?
It was a both thing. Replace the 6.5s in the doors with a good 6.5" midbass and then put a good component set in the kickpanels
2) Spend the money you just freed/...
>>what about 6 or 6.5s?
3) Get a good set of 6.5 midbasses/...
>>Im confused, do #2 and #3 go together? or is it an either or suggestion? Did you mean get the component sets for the front doors, and then add bigger drivers on top of that? (i like that too.. but itd cost a dime or two im guessing)
Actually get one amp to power the components (both the mid and the tweet) and a more powerful amp for the midbasses if you go that route. If you go for just a component set get one pretty powerful amp to power the whole thing.
4) Get a two channel amp for the front/...
>>a two channel amp for the tweeters, and a more powerful 2 channel amp for the drivers? no prob.
By all accounts those subs will enjoy having the extra power of the 1000/1s. If money isn't a problem, go for it. You could also start with one of 1000/1 (same power as the two 500/1s and easier to wire and cheaper) and then if you decide that you need more, get another.
Ive made up my mind on the bassengine and amps.
If i go with the JL 12W7s, i will pair each with a 500/1 amp.
But im tempted to up the ante and go with the 13W7s, and up the amps to two 1000/1s.
If you are set keeping the rear speakers, get a mid size 4-channel amp to power both the rear speakers and the front components, and then keep the gain on the rear channels set fairly low so they don't drown out the good front speakers. If you do it right up front, you will not miss the rear speakers, but its your system.
5) Rear speakers are entirely up to you/...
>>In my eyes, i got a great set of speakers in the back already.
But id like to put some power through em, like another two channel amp. But is that too many Amps in the car? I dont want to put too much stress on any of my amps. Id just like to keep all power freeflowing. Would another amp be too much for the rear 6x9s? or can i just run them off the head unit stock even with all the amplifiers and new equipment? will there be any extra cables available for the 6x9s?
Once you get past the 9813 Alpine unit, the only thing you get for the extra money of the more expensive units is the bells and whistles on the display. The EQ, crossover and preamp functions are exactly the same. I have a 9813 myself because I couldn't justify the extra expense of the higher priced units, the display wasn't worth it to me. Kenwood makes some good decks, but look at all the different models to find the features you need and don't pay more than you have to.
1)You never mentioned a head unit/...
>>Everyone is telling me Eclipse, and while theyre great on the stats, their ugly as hell. So im looking at the $500+ Alpine and Clarion models. Im looking at the Kenwood Excelon MP969 or something like that, its gotta motorized/camaflauged face, and 3 pairs of 5v preouts. All that EQ stuff included. Any suggestions on non-horriffic looking head units?
It's 0ga actually and with the type of power you are talking about one run of it will the minimum to run from the battery.
>>Sweet. wiring. Monster Cable?
ok whats 1/0 wire? 1 ga? thick heat resistant industrial stuff?
Of all my questions asked in all the forums im in, nobody has helped me understand how the cables are wired. So alternator to ground and battery and all that? then battery to fuses, then cabled to trunk to a distro block, and possible other distro blocks? correct?
If you like the looks of the Audiobahn fuse blocks and distro block then get them. Knukonceptz has really good prices, but they don't have 1/0 to 4ga fused distro blocks. They also don't have 4ga fuse blocks that are multiple block. I really like their two tone wire from a looks standpoint, but wire is pretty much wire. Get whatever you can get cheap. Fuse blocks pretty much come down to looks and type of fuse. Types of fuses are: 1)ANL-the really big flat ones that are used for high current (up to 300A). These are the ones you usually have under the hood near the battery.
>>Distro blocks i can get anything Audiobahn about 30% off at least from a bud. and i like their EQs and distro blocks and fuse blocks. Whats an ANL type fuse? the flat looking ones?
2)MIDI-these are basically smaller versions of the ANL.
3)MAXI-these are larger versions of the blade type fuses that you have in you car fuse panel. They make them up to 100A but the 80A are the largest commonly available.
4)AGU-these are the round glass fuses that most people are familiar with.
If I were you I would look on eBay for the Stinger HPM series stuff. They make a 2 position MIDI block that will take 1/0 in a give 2 4ga out for your sub amps and a maching MIDI block that takes a 1/0 in and 2 4ga out for your midbass and high frequency amps. If I were running the kind of power you are looking at, I personally would run dual 1/0 from the battery to the rear and then split to 4ga there. Each 1/0 will need its own inline fuse, ANL is the only way to go here and since they're under the hood, they should be waterproof. It might be a bit of overkill for the high freq amps but better too big than too small when it comes to wire.
Fuseblocks are fuseblocks the only difference from one model to another is the styling and the finish. As long as it takes the size wire you need and the type/size fuse you need any other difference is cosmetic not functional. Like I said above, two ANL fuses under the hood running to two fuseblocks in the trunk. The part number for the ANL fuseblock is FH-20 from Knukonceptz. The two rear blocks I mentioned above are SF2MDPT from Stinger. You will need battery terminals as well. Your best bet would either be the Knukonceptz ones with two ring terminals on the Pos to get all the 1/0 outputs you need. You will need 3 1/0 wires off the battery unfortuantely and no one that I know of makes a terminal with 3 1/0 outputs. You will need the 2 to go to the trunk and 1 to the alternator. You will use the small ga output on the Knuconceptz terminal to go to the car's power distribution system. You may have to do some creative power distribution under the hood to get power to all the places you need it (car's electrical system, starter, etc...). They're all parallel circuits so as long as you keep the pos and the neg separate and use big enough wire, you can move distribution stuff around a bit to make it all work.
>>Im lookin at... 1 big distro block and a smaller one? two smaller ones? a fusebox thing under the hood? what size? one in the trunk as well?
It's pretty easy to do, really. Just power down the amp. Each amp has a turn on lead. Ideally you should run the HU turn-on lead to a relay and use the relay to power up all the amps. Just splice in another relay to your kill switch for the sub amps. You don't necessarily want a relay in the signal path (wires going to subs themselves) because you will probably cook it with too much current. Just power down the amp and you are good to go. Another option is to just turn down the sub output on the HU when you don't want the subs going.
3)Power. A new alternator will be a must/...
What i want to do is get those flip-style kill switches mounted under my radio, or more, so i can kill power to my extra systems
>>My goal is to, while i have family in the car, kill all the extra noise, and just run a simple system, just regular speakers. And whenever else, switch on my bassengine. This is also good because ordanances are tough around here and other areas i travel in.
Any other questions?
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