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    LoudCrownVic's Avatar
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    Amp control while driving...

    my problem is that when I crank the system, the speakers on the headunit max out before the bass does, unless I adjust the bass and treble settings. My amplifier, a former prostitute (as i am at least the fifth or sixth owner) provides great power but did not include the remote gain control. it has the hookup, but not the control itself. Will any old remote gain control work? or should I just **** it up and buy a nice eq with sub controls? With that or similar I'll just thrn up up the subs without overbassing my little speaks. Any advice is appreciated.



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    Re: Amp control while driving...

    Quote Originally Posted by LoudCrownVic
    my problem is that when I crank the system, the speakers on the headunit max out before the bass does, unless I adjust the bass and treble settings. My amplifier, a former prostitute (as i am at least the fifth or sixth owner) provides great power but did not include the remote gain control. it has the hookup, but not the control itself. Will any old remote gain control work? or should I just **** it up and buy a nice eq with sub controls? With that or similar I'll just thrn up up the subs without overbassing my little speaks. Any advice is appreciated.
    if ur speakers are distorting before ur subwoofers, then turn the gain up on ur subwoofer amp. so that they distort at the same time.



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    -Viper d1200.1 (sub), Viper 400.2 (mids), David Navone Amp-100 (horns)



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    Re: Amp control while driving...

    Actually, now that I think about it, the root cause of this problem is is that I listn to a massive variety of music. That's why i feel that i need bass control. The amp gain wouldnt effect it much, and i have tried it. Works with some music, not others.



    I com to lern bout car awww-deeeee-ohhhhhs!
    Truck: 1998 Ford Ranger SC 2.5L 4 cyl 5 spd
    Mods- 195/60R15 Cooper Cobra Tires on stock rims
    System: HU- Eclipse CD8454, 2 Dayton RS180 7" midbass, Optimus 3" Horn Tweets hotglued to the dash, 3 12" JL W6v1's downfiring sealed, PPI PCX2200 @ 4 ohms, Alpine MRV-F545 mids and highs, 2 layers of Raamat on the doors.
    What's in Store:
    2 more Dayton RS180 7" midbass, 2 Bolender Grabender Neo planar tweets

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    Re: Amp control while driving...

    Well you could find a bass control as you know, but Id recommend sucking it up and buying an eq. I know -exactly- where you are coming from, I listen to a variety of music too. And even my mood affects my listening style. I use an alpine EQ with sub control, volume and crossover point. Of course the sub level control (volume) is nice, but the knob with the variable adjusting xover point is surprisingly useful. Different songs, bands and music genre's like that xover point at different places in my system. Bass heavy songs I tend to adjust the xover point higher (max is 120hz), while rock and other types I generally crank it down to its lowest point (50hz).

    For the best control over your music on the fly, you cant beat an in-dash eq with lots on controls.




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    Re: Amp control while driving...

    audioholic: Just off the top, how much $ was the alpine eq? I think my fiend is selling a kenwood one... But I luv alpine.



    I com to lern bout car awww-deeeee-ohhhhhs!
    Truck: 1998 Ford Ranger SC 2.5L 4 cyl 5 spd
    Mods- 195/60R15 Cooper Cobra Tires on stock rims
    System: HU- Eclipse CD8454, 2 Dayton RS180 7" midbass, Optimus 3" Horn Tweets hotglued to the dash, 3 12" JL W6v1's downfiring sealed, PPI PCX2200 @ 4 ohms, Alpine MRV-F545 mids and highs, 2 layers of Raamat on the doors.
    What's in Store:
    2 more Dayton RS180 7" midbass, 2 Bolender Grabender Neo planar tweets

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