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    help NO POWER PLEASE! URGENT

    I hooked up my Tsunami 1100db to my subs but NO POWER...my ground my remote and my power seem to be in just fine but still no power...PLEASE HELP!







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    60_cent's Avatar
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    Re: help NO POWER PLEASE! URGENT

    Check it again.

    It is obvious that something's not right.

    Check the ground, most of the time that's what the problem is.




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    Re: help NO POWER PLEASE! URGENT

    Quote Originally Posted by Alpine4life
    I hooked up my Tsunami 1100db to my subs but NO POWER...my ground my remote and my power seem to be in just fine but still no power...PLEASE HELP!

    I have installed alot of amps in my time and I always get cuaght in the moment of being done and getting to test it out that I will forget to put the fuse in the fuse holder. . If you are positive that you have a good ground source and power termination then stick a meter to your remote lead and see if it is sending the proper voltage to the amp




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    Re: help NO POWER PLEASE! URGENT

    check your wiring, and check it again. Also the Tsunami's come with gains down and crossovers not set, check those out first, at first it might take a while to hear wang, but in a minute after powering on, it should wang for ya.



    This years line up.....

    *eD, Tsunami, CDT, Alpine, EFX wiring/block/fuses*

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    Re: help NO POWER PLEASE! URGENT

    When in doubt, take measurements!
    Having your power, ground, and remote wires connected securely doesn't mean the wires are doing what they are supposed to, after all.
    (although I'd also check the fuse up front, underhood... I'm also always doing an install, getting excited it's complete too early, jumping in and turning it on only to realize it won't power up because it's not getting any power, because the fuse is still pulled out

    What you do know is that your ground wire needs to be securely fastened (metal-on-metal, secure connection) to the car's chassis, providing essentially a nearly-zero resistance path to the negative terminal of the battery (as the battery negative is also securely fastened with a clean, metal-on-metal connection).
    You know your main power wire should measure 12v all the time, since it's directly connected to the battery's positive post.
    You know your remote wire should measure 0v with the car and stereo turned off, and should measure 12v with the car and stereo turned on.

    Break out the DMM...
    Disconnect your ground wire from your amp (or you'll be measuring the amp too! ).
    Set it to resistance (mine beeps to show continuity, anything under 1/10th of an ohm, I believe), put one probe on the ground wire pulled off the amp, put the other probe on a known good ground - anything connected to the vehicle's chassis. I've almost always got good luck with the door striker plates, or the screws used to hold them on, since they aren't painted.
    If your DMM shows virtually 0 ohms, you have a good ground.
    If you don't, check it out! When connecting the ground wire to the car's chassis, use a wire wheel on a drill to strip off all the paint where your ground cable's ring terminal will be pulled down, as paint is an insulator. Don't ground to anything that's not the actual vehicle's chassis, also. You need a good, bare metal-on-metal, secure contact patch.
    If everything checks out OK, reconnect it to the amp.

    Disconnect your power wire from your amp.
    Set the DMM to read voltage.
    You can either leave the one probe on your door striker plate or whatever good ground you used before.
    Obviously, the other probe is held to the bare power wire disconnected from the amp.
    You should read 12v.
    If you don't, there's your problem. Check out the power wire. Check the connection at the battery. Is it good?
    Check the fuse itself... even if you did insert the fuse, maybe it blew.
    Remember what that fuse is there for... to protect against your power wire shorting against your vehicle's chassis somewhere... it should be oversized relative to the sum of your amp's fuses (since the wire presents some resistance, and some current will be burned up en route, and it's not there to protect your amps.)...
    So if it did blow, you should inspect your entire power wire. Did you put a screw through it somewhere? Did the insulation become torn somewhere? Etc.
    If everything checks out OK, reconnect it to the amp, so that bare end doesn't inadvertantly touch any bare metal anywhere (including your amp's heatsink!).

    Disconnect the remote wire from your amp.
    This time you'll need to start your car, or rather put the key to the position where the radio will work (ACC).
    With the key off (and stereo off), you should measure 0v on the wire. No doubt you are...
    Turn the key on so the stereo will work, and turn the stereo on. As soon as you turn the stereo on, the wire should measure to 12v.
    If it doesn't, that's very obviously the problem.
    It might just be a bad connection, or a connection that got pulled loose when the HU was shoved back in... or maybe a bad connection along the way.

    One likely cause though, is inadvertantly using the power antenna wire, when you wanted to use the remote wire - both are blue wires.
    To test this scenario out, actually turn the radio on. When the radio is selected, does the wire go to 12v? When the CD is selected, does the wire go back to 0v?
    If so, that's what happened. You'll need to pull the HU out and connect your wire going back to your amp to the other blue wire.

    If everything checks out OK, reconnect it to the amp.

    If you've gotten this far without finding any issues, there's a few other things to check out. Mainly, you might be tripping a protection circuit.. the amp might be powering up, but immediately going into protection.
    Are there protection lights on the amp? Is it lit?
    Is the impedance connected to the amp correct? Some amps have protection against low impedance loads. Check your sub wiring. You can even measure it with the DMM (you have to disconnect the wires from the amp), but bear in mind that's DC resistance, not nominal impedance, being measured. It should simply be somewhat close to the nominal impedance, but a bit lower (2 ohms nominal usually meters around 1.7 ohms, etc)
    Is there a remote gain control?

    If you haven't found any issues after all that, then it very well might be a defect in the amp, but my guess is that you find something before you get all this way.

    Good luck!




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    Re: help NO POWER PLEASE! URGENT

    Also check out the onboard fusing on the amp. The 3 - 30 amp fuses could be blown.




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    Re: help NO POWER PLEASE! URGENT

    Any luck, Alpine4life?




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    Re: help NO POWER PLEASE! URGENT

    my fuse was blown
    lol all i had to do was replace it




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