Can I gound to the same place that my battery is? It's a nice big bolt, right now I have them on these two little bolts...
Also when running two amps can the grounds be on the same bolt? Do I need a distro block?
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Can I gound to the same place that my battery is? It's a nice big bolt, right now I have them on these two little bolts...
Also when running two amps can the grounds be on the same bolt? Do I need a distro block?
if you are saying you have a batt in the rear of the vehicle with the amps then it would behoove you to ground to the batt itself
and if you are running two amplifiers then it is best that they be grounded at the same location to prevent ground loop issues
Yes the battery is in the back of my car along with the amps.
So can I ground both amps and the battery all on the same place?
What you typed sounded like a yes. (I know my first post wasn't to clear..)
basically ground your amps to the battery
K sweet.
Thanks a bunch
i like to find a nice location hidden but easy to get to if need be , ill use angle iron or a small piece of tube stock welded right to the body or frame of the vehicle... the peice will usually have another plate welded to it with numerous holes drilled it all different sizes... the plate, (that has never had any paint on it) will serve as thee perfect ground ... secure all ground cables to the plate and you will never have to worry again... it will cost you about 5 bucks to make and about 10 minutes to drill holes and weld it in.. hardest part is finding a location
I love amp.
The triple threat as it is called by some installers is what i do, after using a wire brush to scrape off all paint and checking clearance i shoot a small self tapper through the center of the ring terminal and one of each side of the ring terminal that catches the edges. So you have 3 screws holding your ground in, have never had it fail me
at my shop we just use 2 self tapping one through the middle then on throught the actual ring close to where the copper comes out , i believe 2 is all it takes
some one should post pics of bad grounds and pics of good grounds
I prefer to do a ground run.
Hi,
This may be a stupid question but i wanted to make sure i was grounding my amps properly but dont have access to a VOM. It says to choose a location on the chassis. I'm not exactly sure which part the chassis is so i took a picture of where the original installer chose to make the grounding point in the trunk of my 2003 Lexus IS 300. Is this indeed a good location or bad location for my ground.
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...ngpoint001.jpg
a closer look
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...ngpoint002.jpg
If this is a good location i wanted to scrape the paint away(most likely use sandpaper) and reconnect the wires with the same shown screws from above.
When disconnecting the ground to my amps, should i remove the positive and/or negative wire from my battery terminals? and have the car in the off position? what is the procedure to follow that sets up the safest working environment when messing with my sound systems electrical wiring?
If this is a bad location where would you guys specifically suggest i pick as a grounding point in my cars trunk?
Background on my system:
JL audio 1000.1v2, JL audio 13" w7, Kicker KX600.4, and Stock head unit
Stock alternator and Duralast Gold: part # 24-DLG, CCA 750, 935 at 32F, reserve capacity 130amps
4 gauge wiring was used for the positive power wire from my battery's positive terminal all the way to the trunk where that 4 gauge wire was fed into a distribution block. This block has three output wires using 8 gauge wiring. Two of these 8 gauge power wires run to and are simultaneously connected into the 12v input of my JL Audio 1000.1 (shady? should i upgrade to 4 gauge or unnecessary). The one remaining 8 gauge power wire as well as the small red remote wire is fed into a:
Bosch 12V 20/30A small black plastic thing (fuse?).
This Bosch has a very small black ground wire that is "grounded" as seen in the picture below. does the location of that ground look fine? do i just need to scrape the paint away to ensure a good connection(like my amp ground point)? should i choose a different location? if so where?
The output of this bosch piece is an 8 gauge wire and the (small red) remote wire.
this red 8 gauge wire is then fed into the 12v input of my Kicker kx600.4 amp.
the remote wire is fed to the remote wire input of the kicker amp and another small red wire connects the kicker amp remote input directly to the remote wire input of the JL Audio 1000.1
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...ngpoint003.jpg
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...ngpoint004.jpg
Given my systems specs and electrical wiring setup, what gauge wiring would you guys suggest i use when doing "the Big 3" upgrade to my car?
should i be worried about the size of the 8 gauge power wires that is used to power both of my amplifiers?
Is this electrical wiring, shady and or could it be improved? if so how?
The reason I am asking is because i experience random bouts of alternator whine and turn off thump, as well as light dimming when playing the bass loud. My plan of attack will be doing the big three upgrade and following the suggestions made in the
Sticky Thread >>>Engine whine and ground loop fixes... take two
but before I do these I wanted to make sure the electrical wiring of my system was correct.
Let me know if you need more pictures or more information
also i apologize for the extremely long post and if you guys think this post is better off being put somewhere mods could definitely move it or i can repost it in the advised thread.
any help would be great
Thanks!
if you could take a pic of that relay untaped that would be great because im not seeing a reason to have a relay period in your current situation.
If that ground is where i think it is in the trunk of that vehicle then he is on the frame or very close to it and definately part of the unified chassis. I would def remove that paint asap it will likely assist in your atl whine issue. Also what gauge wiring was used for your ground wires...i cannot tell by the picture but it looks an awful lot like 8gauge for both if that is the case im going to need you to upgrade that as well. As for the saftey issue do whatever you feel is safest. I personally never disconnect batt terminals unless unplugging airbag harnesses. As for the distroblock i strongly suggest you purchase a decent distro block and run at least 2ga to the rear of that car and then split to at least 4ga to the 1000/1 and the kicker. As for the big 3 upgrade i would also do atelast 2ga if not 1/0. The wiring in your vehicle seems more lazy then anything else or like someone was attempting to quickly complete the install.