My first experience with Peel & Seal as an FYI......
Just thought I'd give my experience for other people to reference. My '91 Mustang GT is pretty loud between the long tube headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, lopey cam, and the whistling of the 1000cfm supercharger. I planned on doing the doors, floor, and hatch so Dynamat or equivalent would of been expensive to say the least. I went to my local building materials store and they sold me a 100sq ft. roll of aluminum backed "Peel & Seal" for $30 plus tax (they couldn't find their price sheet so they just said $30, I was planning on paying ~$65), not bad at all!
I've worked with Dynamat before and the Dynamat may of been a bit easier to work with due to the lack of an aluminum backing. But this stuff is very simple to work with also, I noticed I didn't have to heat it as much as Dynamat (I used a hair dryer, worked perfectly). Once this stuff sticks, it's ON, it's very tacky when slightly heated, more so the hotter it gets, but you can't get it to hot or it'll start sticking to the backing when you peel it off. Comapred to a small sheet of Dynamat I had stuck in my hatch the P&S seemed to be a little sturdier even a touch thicker, I believe the aluminum backing had a lot to do with that. Speaking of which I really like the aluminum backing on P&S, I feel it adds a bit extra to the sound proofing aspect. The only drawback is that you really can't lay a large sheet around sharp circular bends (i.e. spare tire well) due to risking air bubbles since the aluminum backing makes it a touch thicker, but you just use smaller sheets/strips on those areas. I didn't use a roller, just my hands and the blunt end of a screwdriver for indentations and corners. Also it has NO odor at all, none, I was surprised
I finished my hatch last night and it cut the drone from my exhaust considerably....I can't wait to do the floor and doors!
(3) JL Audio 12W6s <using 1 to save weight>
(2) Orion XTR 8" midbasses
6.5" Polk Momo comps.
Orion XTR 2150
Orion XTR 800.4