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    01Price, IASCApro, or anyone else who wants to respond


    You know how you told me that I should bridge that PCX-480 amp to drive the front speakers? Well, I decided that if I do that I'm going to go with an even better 3-way component set than the JL, since I'm gonna be getting alot of power. (I originally wanted the JLs to being with because it said they only needed 75wRMS per set) But if I'm going to bridge that amp, I might as well get something like the Dynaudio, CDT Audio, or Diamond Audio 3-way set that takes about 150-200wRMS per set. Any suggestions here?

    Now, to get to my main question. I'm doing a stealth installation in my Dodge truck, where the only thing that you'd be able to see when you looked in is the head unit and the kick panels. The subs, amps, caps, changer, everything else will be completely hidden from view. To pull off this installation and waste as little space in the vehicle as possible, I'm putting the subwoofer under the front center seat. It's a JL Audio stealthbox with a 12W3 in it that was specifically designed for that location. The sub is rated at 250wRMS, I heard JL underrates their subs though and I could probably get away with putting 300wRMS into it. The question is, since I have a relatively low power subwoofer, is there any point in me putting so much power into a component set? I ask this because I heard you should always have your sub powered higher than your front stage or else it won't blend in right with the music. I think it would be a little strange running the components at 320wRMS while the single subwoofer is only running at 300wRMS. I heard that ideally if I run the components at 320wRMS then I should run the subwoofer at 600wRMS, b/c the sub should be powered at twice whatever your mids/highs are powered at. But if this is true I won't be able to do that because I can't put a 600wRMS sub in a tight space like under the center seat. It has to be something like a 12W3 or IDQ that was made for small enclosures.

    So, is there any truth to this deal about the sub having to be powered at twice whatever the front stage is, or is the person who told me this on crack just like the guy who told me class D amps shouldn't be used for sound quality? If this isn't true, then is it ok to run 320w components and have a 300w sub?



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    I'll respond to this now, but i am tired and I might blabber, I am going to bed after this.

    If you want a high-power handleing superb sounding component set, I know a guy that designs his own speakers that sound as good as the rainbows. But, since he is busy and he doesn't know you, , I would suggest the MB Quart PSC 216 or Q series. Before you get them, please, PLEASE listen to them first, that is the most important part of the buying process. The PSC 216 is a 2-way component set designed to handle anywhere from 60 to 130 wRMS at a low frequency xover, they can handle plenty more watts with a higher setting. The Q series can handle up to 170 wRMS, more than most entry level subs can handle. Both use titanium tweeters which I love. Some people think titanium sounds harsh, but I believe that is the true sound and it isn't harsh to me.

    The 12w3 is a good choice, I would say you can give it 400-500 wRMS with the gains turned down on the amp. If you want to run a 600 wRMS sub instead of the 12w3, I got one choice for you buddy: get the 1202 Blueprint sub. They sound better than a 12w7 and work in a very small sealed enclosure. Don't worry about how your watts are being used. That 12w3 or whatever you decide to get, will be plenty loud. Remember, your speakers aren't always getting the full rms watts, it's only during the high dynamics of the music and how high you have your volume at. You sound like you will have a pretty rockin truck! IT IS VERY OK to run 160 wRMS to each side of your truck's components and 300 watts into a sub, especially if the sub is right behind you .

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