really very nice advice. i like it.
really very nice advice. i like it.
Ive read through the majority of these, and haven't seen it yet so ill post it.
I have a small cable ran around a spoke on both of my sub baskets with a lock connecting them. There's no breaking it, or even moving the woofers really, and the only way is to reach in through the port with a key. Doesn't add much displacement, and an easy way to ruin a thief's day. Just an idea though :p works for me so far.
Theres some great info on this thread, thanks!
Record a message played on a loudspeaker mounted under your car that starts with a demented laugh and then has a voice that says "Im coming to f*** you." Then have it go back to laughter. Have another speaker start playing the sound of a woman screaming. Just as that starts, your air horns start blaring and a blue rotating cop light starts flashing. Bonus points if you have a red strobe light in the car that starts flashing with no fixed interval. Have the brain hidden behind the passenger airbag or instrument panel, and have one that sends a remote message warning you that your car is being messed with. Maybe a couple of those handheld piezo sirens that you pull the chord on to activate. As you approach the car pull the chords and throw the sirens in a couple of directions (before they see you). I would only approach the car if it was one thief, he didnt see me, and I had a gun I knew how to use. Attacking with pepper spray is too risky, and more than one thief what if they both have guns?
Anyways, great advice on this thread!
It seems to me the most effective way is to bring fear into the equation- fear of getting caught, fear of the sick angry owner who just so happens to likely be a sadist, etc. A veteran car thief is pretty much immune to this- best way to avoid him stealing your equipment is to have a plane jane car with no stickers and as stealth an install as you can manage.
Get real insurance where they cover your audio and who cares. Thread/
I get your point for sure, but I do think there is definitely a point to the tips in this thread
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HU: ///Alpine 9887, KCE-400BT, KCE-433IV, KTX-100EQ Imprint, 8Gb iPod Touch
Front Mids: Eclipse SC6500
Front Tweeters: Morel made Xtant 28MM Silks
Subs: Audiomobile Evo 10" TC2+
Enclosure: 1.1 Cubes sealed with 10 Ounces Poly Fill
Amp: Audio Systems Twister F6 380 III
Thread is over 9 years old..
I was 8 when this was started, lol.
My Silverado under construction with 8 15" Soundrive subs in a 4th order wall powered by four 7k's @ .5 ohms each http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/621466-alexs-silverado.html
Sorry for the Repost.
2015 6.2 L Crew Cab Ford Raptor
- 1 JL Audio 13W7 13-1/2-Inch Subwoofer
Both of my amps and all 4 subs are bolted down. Allenhead type bolts too not just some average joe bolt or drywall screw.
Have fun removing those in less than 5 mins.
I suggest the same to others as well.
97 4 dr. Tahoe
CDT KA-61 comps
Soundstream Rubicon 1.2500D & 4.500 amps
2 Sundown Audio X 15's Tuned @ 30Hz.
One of the simplest and most effective security features for trunk cars is lockable trunk release.
'07 Accord V6
HU: Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS
Front stage: Gladen Zero Pro 6.5"
Subs: 2 B2 audio reference 12"
Amps: Arc KS300.2 and DD M2B
Box: 3.75 cu ft tuned to 34Hz - built by OB Audio
Wiring: All KNU Konceptz
Doors deadened with Kno Knoise, trunk with Kolossus
This cable is 15' long it goes thru the trunk roof , thru the trunk, under my rear seats and a metal pipe goes though the loops with padlocks. I also have an alarm with a lcd to alarm me if I'm broken into. If anyone does try to open my hood it will open up about 3" buahahahahahahahahahhahahahaj
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