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    saw blade question...

    Looking to get a new blade for my saw for my next build. The blade I currently have on it stops in its tracks sometimes when im in the middle of using it and then i have to pull back and then proceed. Im thinking its dull and time to replace. Its for my circular saw. Question is,does the amount of teeth on the blade play a big role as far as cleaner cuts. How many teeth on the blade should i be looing for. Ill have to check when i get off work to see what I currently have on my saw.







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    Re: saw blade question...

    SLOW DOWN!!!

    Assuming your material hasn't shifted and is binding the blade, you're pushing too hard and too fast. Even if your blade is dull, there is a speed at which you can cut the material and not cause the blade to bind up.

    I've seen this with almost everyone I've ever lent a saw to... including some people who are actual, professional carpenters. Matter of fact, it's the only reason why I'm reluctant to lend my saws to people.

    As for blades, more teeth does indeed make a smoother cut but, it also requires that you slow down even more, because if you blow through a piece of material with an expensive, thin kerf, 40 tooth blade you will cause the blade to warp and thus, bind up.

    Here are some blades I use on my circular saw:
    Shop DEWALT Precision Trim 7-1/4-in 60-Tooth Circular Saw Blade at Lowes.com

    Shop CMT 10-in 80-Tooth Continuous Circular Saw Blade at Lowes.com

    Oldham also makes good blades and I run a thick kerf one on my small table saw, for ripping. And while all of the above blades can and will cut faster and cleaner than the average saw blade, they can also all be pushed too hard through the material and the result will always be binding up of them at the least. At the worst, binding a saw blade can cause you and/or other people and structures around you some serious harm.

    So again....slow down. ;-)



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    Re: saw blade question...

    Quote Originally Posted by bbeljefe View Post
    SLOW DOWN!!!

    Assuming your material hasn't shifted and is binding the blade, you're pushing too hard and too fast. Even if your blade is dull, there is a speed at which you can cut the material and not cause the blade to bind up.

    I've seen this with almost everyone I've ever lent a saw to... including some people who are actual, professional carpenters. Matter of fact, it's the only reason why I'm reluctant to lend my saws to people.

    As for blades, more teeth does indeed make a smoother cut but, it also requires that you slow down even more, because if you blow through a piece of material with an expensive, thin kerf, 40 tooth blade you will cause the blade to warp and thus, bind up.

    Here are some blades I use on my circular saw:
    Shop DEWALT Precision Trim 7-1/4-in 60-Tooth Circular Saw Blade at Lowes.com

    Shop CMT 10-in 80-Tooth Continuous Circular Saw Blade at Lowes.com

    Oldham also makes good blades and I run a thick kerf one on my small table saw, for ripping. And while all of the above blades can and will cut faster and cleaner than the average saw blade, they can also all be pushed too hard through the material and the result will always be binding up of them at the least. At the worst, binding a saw blade can cause you and/or other people and structures around you some serious harm.

    So again....slow down. ;-)
    lol,thanks for the reply man. I thought that i was cutting slow but.....i do get a bit anxious at times when im ready to get a box done. Think i may get the first blade you sent the link to, and just cut slower




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    Re: saw blade question...

    24t carbide tipped is what I use, circular and table saw. Don't bother with higher tooth count blades anymore...




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    Re: saw blade question...

    Quote Originally Posted by mlstrass View Post
    24t carbide tipped is what I use, circular and table saw. Don't bother with higher tooth count blades anymore...
    So higher tooth count blades are not really needed? The results you get from lower count tooth blades are just as good as higher counts?




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    Re: saw blade question...

    If cutting mdf a lower count blade is fine, just slow down mdf is dense




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    Re: saw blade question...

    I'm not sure with MDF, but I can tell you with plywood that you would be happier with a higher count blade. Like bbel said, slow down while you cut and make sure your supports are in the right place so the wood doesn't bend.




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    Re: saw blade question...

    I agree plywood go higher count and you can put masking tape to try to stop the wood from fraying on the cut edge




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    Re: saw blade question...

    who cares if the outer laminate frays a little. Just sand it smooth and don't most boxes get covered with carpet.

    24t is SOOOO much faster, no reason to slow down on your cuts.




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    Re: saw blade question...

    Thanks Mlstrass I was wondering this too...



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    Re: saw blade question...

    Quote Originally Posted by mlstrass View Post
    who cares if the outer laminate frays a little. Just sand it smooth and don't most boxes get covered with carpet.

    24t is SOOOO much faster, no reason to slow down on your cuts.
    Assuming you know how fast he's cutting before you make that statement.

    OP said his material is binding in the saw. That's a sign of pushing too fast... regardless of the blade being used.



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    Re: saw blade question...

    op make sure you don't cut in the middle of the wood. always have the piece of wood that you plan to cut hanging over the edge of the table, so when you cut it, it fall to the floor. when you cut in the middle you create back pressure that can bind your saw.



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    Re: saw blade question...

    Quote Originally Posted by bbeljefe View Post
    Assuming you know how fast he's cutting before you make that statement.

    OP said his material is binding in the saw. That's a sign of pushing too fast... regardless of the blade being used.
    Could also be a dull blade, so don't assume he's pushing too fast....




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