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    I joined this site to ask this question...

    I am upgrading my subs from two 10" alpine to two 15" subs, not sure what kind yet..however I cannot be persuaded to a certain brand so save your breath. The only advice I am asking you people maybe laughable to the versed car audio individual....but here goes. I drive a custom car. The trunk is almost completely fiberglass (major structures and mechanics aside) and I don't want to encourage my trunk walls to flex, bend, alter, warp, or MOVE. BUT, the trunk is not sealed...In the front seat of my car I can look and see the very back of the trunk. Would it make sense for me to buy a sealed box or a vented box? (keeping the request of having minimal flex in my trunk walls in mind) My dim witted logic tells me that a vented box pushes more air around and would encourage the fiberglass trunk structure to move around more. BUT, because the trunk isn't sealed would the air pressure dissipate to the rest of the chamber/cabin of my vehicle and not be an issue? Should I dynamat and get the subs in a sealed box? I need your 5 cents here, folks. I don't want my fiberglass trunk walls to move..sealed or vented?







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    Re: I joined this site to ask this question...

    No matter what you do, even with an open trunk, it will still pressurize, your best answer would probably be a trunk wall, the subs would seal off into the cabin behind the rear seats and minimize pressure buildup in the trunk itself.

    Ported or not depends mainly on space/design constrictions, most cars wouldn't be able to fit the ~8 Cubes a pair of ported 15's would need to breathe properly.



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    Re: I joined this site to ask this question...

    2 15s is going to flex the shit out of it either way. I'd recommending using CLD tiles (dynamat or similar) on the back of the fiberglass if possible




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    Re: I joined this site to ask this question...

    2 /12 in Daytons in a sealed enclosure, with min rms power might be alright




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    Re: I joined this site to ask this question...

    Yea with 2 15" you are going to have flex. unless you only use about 300 watts. and you still will have some minor flexing.



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    Re: I joined this site to ask this question...

    I do have the abililty to seal the trunk area if I want, but wouldnt that make more pressure (smaller space)? So you are recommending a sealed box with a sealed trunk?




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    Re: I joined this site to ask this question...

    Quote Originally Posted by billsburgundy View Post
    I do have the abililty to seal the trunk area if I want, but wouldnt that make more pressure (smaller space)? So you are recommending a sealed box with a sealed trunk?
    I'm assuming behind the back seats you have a large hole? if so, this is what I mean.



    The box is port and subs firing forward, into the cabin, completely sealed off from the trunk itself.



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    Re: I joined this site to ask this question...

    I have two sealed 15 inch radio shack pieces of junk on 300 watts rms in the trunk of my car and there is FLEX.




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    Re: I joined this site to ask this question...

    Quote Originally Posted by UnderFire View Post
    I'm assuming behind the back seats you have a large hole? if so, this is what I mean.



    The box is port and subs firing forward, into the cabin, completely sealed off from the trunk itself.
    ^^that^^



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    Re: I joined this site to ask this question...

    jes 42...that would be very similar to my setup...do you get more trunk flex when the backseat lid is up or down?




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    Re: I joined this site to ask this question...

    or, is the lid always down...kindve looks that way....




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    Re: I joined this site to ask this question...

    Quote Originally Posted by billsburgundy View Post
    or, is the lid always down...kindve looks that way....
    Most of them will fold up just fine and work like stock, I would prefer to mount the amp in the trunk rather then on the seat directly in front of the port though.



    97 4runner, 3RZ, 5 Speed

    Headunit: Alpine CDA-9887
    Mids: CDT HD-6CF
    Tweets: CDT DRT-25
    Fronts Amp: Hertz HDP4
    Sub Amp: American Bass VFL150.1
    Substage: 18" SSA ZCON
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    Re: I joined this site to ask this question...

    seriously people?

    op, fiberglass is used in the construction of subwoofer enclosures fairly often. It's very stiff stuff unless it's a large flat panel, but even then you can stand on a quarter inch thick piece, lol... If it's strong enough to be part of a vehicle, then it will hold up fine to a system.



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    Re: I joined this site to ask this question...

    Quote Originally Posted by av83 View Post
    seriously people?

    op, fiberglass is used in the construction of subwoofer enclosures fairly often. It's very stiff stuff unless it's a large flat panel, but even then you can stand on a quarter inch thick piece, lol... If it's strong enough to be part of a vehicle, then it will hold up fine to a system.
    I wouldn't want constant flex on fiberglass, if it's anything like a boat hull, it may be very stiff, but fiberglass is very prone to stress cracks.



    97 4runner, 3RZ, 5 Speed

    Headunit: Alpine CDA-9887
    Mids: CDT HD-6CF
    Tweets: CDT DRT-25
    Fronts Amp: Hertz HDP4
    Sub Amp: American Bass VFL150.1
    Substage: 18" SSA ZCON
    Electrical: 160 Amp Alt, Duralast Gold, C&D270FR, 2/0 Throughout

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    Re: I joined this site to ask this question...

    Quote Originally Posted by UnderFire View Post
    I wouldn't want constant flex on fiberglass, if it's anything like a boat hull, it may be very stiff, but fiberglass is very prone to stress cracks.
    fiberglass car body panels are thicker than boat hulls. They are also smaller, which increases the resistance to vibration caused by sound.



    Pioneer 80prs
    ...
    Rockford Fosgate t800.4, CDT ES-MO 6 mids, Digital Designs T2 tweets
    ...
    2 MB Quart DSC1500.1's strapped on 1 Tantric HDD 12
    Mike Singer 310 amp 6 phase
    ...
    2 runs of Monster Cable 1/0

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