Saw blade for clean mdf cut

[maylar]

the higher the tooth count, the finer the cut

Yes, and the more power the saw needs. Too many teeth and the saw will bog down, bind, and burn the wood. So it depends on the saw.

Freud TCG blades

My choice too.

[DevilDriver]

I have been a residential carpenter for 15 years Diablo 40 T is prob your best bet

[nudels]

Yes, and the more power the saw needs. Too many teeth and the saw will bog down, bind, and burn the wood. So it depends on the saw.

yeah, if you like to go balls-to-the-wall and force the blade to take on more material than it can handle.

typically, the power needed to cut mdf *or any other material, for that matter* varies by how fast you feed the material combined with your blade depth, thus making the actual tool for the job a 'preference' as 'opposed to necessity' such as the question of blade, to suit the end result,.. but the question wasnt about a saw, was it?

*edit, there was an old saying i took heed of when i first started doing carpentry, which was; "let the blade cut the material, not the carpenter"

[Kingstroker]

"typically, the power needed to cut mdf varies by how fast you feed the material combined with your blade depth, thus making the actual tool for the job a 'preference' to suit end result,.. but the question wasnt about a saw, was it?"

You may get away with slowing down just a little but any more than just a little "typically" means your blade is getting dull or bade is too thick for saw hp(use a thin kerf)
If you are cutting 3/4" stock of almost anything and you have to slow down your feed rate very much, you tend to build up heat. This will: burn your stock, dull your blade, create a varnish like coating of burnt material that builds up on your blade which will cause a uneven cut or even cause it to stop cutting. The more dense the material is the more likely all this will happen. Any info other than type of blade was added to be helpful.

[maylar]

yeah, if you like to go balls-to-the-wall and force the blade to take on more material than it can handle.

Not true. If you go too slow you'll burn the work and warp the blade. The blade must be matched to the saw and to the job at hand for optimum results.

typically, the power needed to cut mdf *or any other material, for that matter* varies by how fast you feed the material combined with your blade depth, thus making the actual tool for the job a 'preference' as 'opposed to necessity' such as the question of blade, to suit the end result,.. but the question wasnt about a saw, was it?

My point is only that you need to consider the saw when you choose a blade. The CMT Tools blade charts used to have a "minimum recommended HP" column for 10" blades. The more teeth and wider the kerf the more HP is required to get good results.