A cradle to support magnet?

[heebs 09gts]

I was wondering if anyone ever builds some sort of cradle to support the magnet? For subs with large magnets.

I will be having the sub firing straight across my trunk from left to right (parallel to the ground).

I am using t-nuts so I thought that would be enough to safely hold the sub in place. But I ran it by my stereo shop and they recommended some sort of cradle.

Any thoughts?

[DbDesigns]

meh... not really a need for it. I had my apxx 18 mounted horizontally with regular screws and it was just fine.

[pro-rabbit]

I have done some in the past, but most of the time they are not required at all and most that I have seen were for subs that the "average person" will not own.

[goingdef]

I was wondering if anyone ever builds some sort of cradle to support the magnet? For subs with large magnets.

I will be having the sub firing straight across my trunk from left to right (parallel to the ground).

I am using t-nuts so I thought that would be enough to safely hold the sub in place. But I ran it by my stereo shop and they recommended some sort of cradle.

Any thoughts?

I guess that would really be dependent on how heavy your sub is what quality of screws you use and how solidly built your baffle is. If the box is flimsy and the sub heavy with standard drywall screws holding it then yea a brace wouldn't hurt. But if your running a doubled baffle with wood screws I wouldn't worry about it but then again I have seen a few pics of cracked baskets that suggest otherwise!

[DbDesigns]

I have done some in the past, but most of the time they are not required at all and most that I have seen were for subs that the "average person" will not own.

you installin jackhammers brah?? lmao

[pro-rabbit]

you installin jackhammers brah?? lmao

they so loud... 10 blocks away hearing protection is required.

---------- Post added at 04:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:54 PM ----------

I guess that would really be dependent on how heavy your sub is what quality of screws you use and how solidly built your baffle is. If the box is flimsy and the sub heavy with standard drywall screws holding it then yea a brace wouldn't hurt. But if your running a doubled baffle with wood screws I wouldn't worry about it but then again I have seen a few pics of cracked baskets that suggest otherwise!

I have seen cracked frames, but that is normally from flex issues.

[goingdef]

they so loud... 10 blocks away hearing protection is required.

---------- Post added at 04:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:54 PM ----------



I have seen cracked frames, but that is normally from flex issues.

Is that how there doing that, baffle flex cracking off the motors?

[keep_hope_alive]

A magnet cradle could catch fire if made of wood. Magnets get very hot.
If the sub does not have mounts for a cradle, then one is not required.

Double baffle with t-nuts is fine.

[Fi-brations]

double baffle should be enough for a properly made sub, i did crack my single baffle front plate with two 40 lb subs before, it was a crappy 1st attempt at making a box though

[pro-rabbit]

A magnet cradle could catch fire if made of wood. Magnets get very hot.
If the sub does not have mounts for a cradle, then one is not required.

Double baffle with t-nuts is fine.

That is the truth there. If you can not get one fabbed in some sort of metal then don't waste your time.

We have done some for motors with out mounting locations, but that was more for look then anything.

[pro-rabbit]

Is that how there doing that, baffle flex cracking off the motors?

If you get flex, you have a lot of movement. If you crack a frame, it is likely and effect that came from the flex.

Anytime you see a broken frame the sub was mounted very securely and was not moving...unless the baffle was moving. In some cases that back and forth flex combined with the cone movement can be very troublesome. So can heat buildup.

[goingdef]

you guy's realize the autoignition point of most wood is almost 1000f, if your motor is approaching those temps then your rolling smoke off your coils and your spiders have already went up in flames, I would say you have bigger problems then some smoldering wood at that point!

[pro-rabbit]

you guy's realize the autoignition point of most wood is almost 1000f, if your motor is approaching those temps then your rolling smoke off your coils and your spiders have already went up in flames, I would say you have bigger problems then some smoldering wood at that point!

In most cases I would say you are right, but at the same time I would never in my life use any time of wood for a support of anything that would be "hot" with the confines of an enclosure that is enclosed in a car that is fueled by gas. Somethings you simply do not ever chance.

[goingdef]

In most cases I would say you are right, but at the same time I would never in my life use any time of wood for a support of anything that would be "hot" with the confines of an enclosure that is enclosed in a car that is fueled by gas. Somethings you simply do not ever chance.

I have had the same thought about some amps and the racks they where mounted to retaining heat instead of letting the amp convection cool as it should, I have thought about welding up an amp rack out of 3003 aluminum with a fan cooling the rack not the amps, it would be cheap and it should do a good job of wicking heat away from the amps.

[pro-rabbit]

I have had the same thought about some amps and the racks they where mounted to retaining heat instead of letting the amp convection cool as it should, I have thought about welding up an amp rack out of 3003 aluminum with a fan cooling the rack not the amps, it would be cheap and it should do a good job of wicking heat away from the amps.

Yep we have done some similar things with amps in the past. We have done liquid cooled amp racks before...wouldn't do it again though..was a pita..but it did work very very well. Amp stayed around 75-80 degrees no matter how long it was on.