I don't need to use screws to hold an enclosure together if I'm clamping it, do I? The glue is Titebond II.
I don't need to use screws to hold an enclosure together if I'm clamping it, do I? The glue is Titebond II.
HU: KDC-X994
Front stage: Phd FB 6.1PRO KIT, Active
Sub stage: 1st gen RE XXX 12" w/Fi recone
Highs Amp: Kenwood Excelon XR-4S
Lows Amp: Mmats D300hc
The Rest: AT 60 mil, Optima Redtop underhood and Yellowtop in trunk, Big 3 and front to rear +/- runs in Monster Cable 1/0
If you do it correctly no. I use a nail gun with 1-1/4" brad nails just because it's cheap and easy.
Things to look forward to:
(2) 10" or 12" imperium audio designs subs
set of PHD MF 6.5" comps
Completely seal off and deaden my doors
aquire a 2k amp
aquire a 2 channel amp for front stage
I have built many enclosures with just glue and clamps...and they are doing just fine many years later.
the only real downside is the build time is increased quite a bit as you go through several glue/clamp/dry/repeat cycles....if you use brads or screws you can assemble the entire thing in one session.
JG Construction
Subwoofer Enclosures built in Iowa
Shipped throughout North America
For quotes please use the following contacts:
Email: Jeremy.Gunkel@gmail.com
Phone: (319) 214-0008 (Voice or Text)
Forum: JG Construction
av83 thanked for this post

I always like to use mechanical fasteners as well as glue. Nail gun is easiest, screws do the job as well. Also take pics as you go.
"NEED". no but it couldn't hurt. I use brad nails, glue and clamps. You just can't do better than a mechanical fastener, IMO...
Refs: http://www.caraudio.com/forum/buyer-seller-feedback/454340-k_schutte-feedback-2.html
3" lags.
t-scene thanked for this post
Pics coming soon. Keep in mind it's my 2nd attempt. Ever. My first one (built a few months back) was garbage, had to seal all sorts of gaps, but worked.
---------- Post added at 12:15 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:14 AM ----------
Decided to go ahead and use screws. For ease, and peace of mind.
HU: KDC-X994
Front stage: Phd FB 6.1PRO KIT, Active
Sub stage: 1st gen RE XXX 12" w/Fi recone
Highs Amp: Kenwood Excelon XR-4S
Lows Amp: Mmats D300hc
The Rest: AT 60 mil, Optima Redtop underhood and Yellowtop in trunk, Big 3 and front to rear +/- runs in Monster Cable 1/0
make sure to predrill the holes and go 1 1/2 to 2inches in from the corners to avoid splitting
13 Dodge Dart Rallye 1.4T
DD 2515 Supercharged
RF T1500bdcp
Audiotechnix wire and deadening
http://mobileaudioforum.com/forum/forum.php
BOYCOTT SKAR AUDIO! SHADY BUSINESS PRACTICES SHOULD NEVER BE ENCOURAGED!
HU: KDC-X994
Front stage: Phd FB 6.1PRO KIT, Active
Sub stage: 1st gen RE XXX 12" w/Fi recone
Highs Amp: Kenwood Excelon XR-4S
Lows Amp: Mmats D300hc
The Rest: AT 60 mil, Optima Redtop underhood and Yellowtop in trunk, Big 3 and front to rear +/- runs in Monster Cable 1/0
Ply wood will still split lol.
There was a guy on SSA from Europe some years ago that did 100% screwless/nailless boxes.. they were nuts
Refs:
sefugi x2, S.DeYoung, SteveMead, chillin, rebelfromva, Got160s?, JL Audio , mclerico83, and BIGJEFF64.
Nothing like building an enclosure on your kitchen table at 1 in the morning, lol....
First joint.
We'll see how far I get tonight...
HU: KDC-X994
Front stage: Phd FB 6.1PRO KIT, Active
Sub stage: 1st gen RE XXX 12" w/Fi recone
Highs Amp: Kenwood Excelon XR-4S
Lows Amp: Mmats D300hc
The Rest: AT 60 mil, Optima Redtop underhood and Yellowtop in trunk, Big 3 and front to rear +/- runs in Monster Cable 1/0
It is better to Countersink for the screws, then come back with wood filler to cover and sand down to a smooth finish..Silicone the entire inside of every joint,and out what I like to do
Soooo. I seem to have lost the drill bit that I needed to pre-drill for the screws.... so what the he11? Lets go all glue.
Here are the sides being clamped.
and another view...
I only have two clamps, so I went ahead put those going front/rear and placed 70 lb dumbells on top of a couple panels (what will be the top panel and one of the front baffles) to secure the sides to the bottom piece. This glue is fantastic, btw.. It says that you can remove clamps after 30 mins, but I went ahead and gave it 2 hours before removing them, after joining the rear panel and bottom. The joint was rock solid.
Here's a pic of the corner.
Cuts didn't turn out horrible for using my old sub box as a table to saw on, on the back porch. I just clamped a straight piece of wood to the panel i was cutting and positioned it as a guide for what ever cut I needed to make with my circular saw. Had to use a sanding block to smooth out a couple spots, but other than that, not shabby.
HU: KDC-X994
Front stage: Phd FB 6.1PRO KIT, Active
Sub stage: 1st gen RE XXX 12" w/Fi recone
Highs Amp: Kenwood Excelon XR-4S
Lows Amp: Mmats D300hc
The Rest: AT 60 mil, Optima Redtop underhood and Yellowtop in trunk, Big 3 and front to rear +/- runs in Monster Cable 1/0
This is all titebond II as well no screws what so ever.
![]()
![]()
Bookmarks