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Reload Thread: Time to REALLY test your Enclosure knowledge......NEED HELP

  1. #16
    UnderFire's Avatar
    UnderFire is offline CarAudio.com Veteran



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    Re: Time to REALLY test your Enclosure knowledge......NEED HELP

    I'm around 6' 1 and I have an 89 reg cab, I'm assuming you have to have your seat all the way back, I know I do, there is barely enough room to even mount an amp back there, I think a good option if you don't mind chopping up the back wall a bit would be building a toolbox into a bandpass enclosure, and then porting it into the cab.

    Otherwise, a single 12 that'll handle some serious power might be the better way to go, or 2 10's.

    If you're wondering how I got a 15 in my truck, there is a sleeper cab thing on the back, with a box hanging under it, definitely not chopping any holes in my truck.

    BTW the best looking seats for the bucket swap are the 90-95 4runner seats IMO



    97 4runner, 3RZ, 5 Speed

    Headunit: Alpine CDA-9887
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    Fronts Amp: Hertz HDP4
    Sub Amp: American Bass VFL150.1
    Substage: 18" SSA ZCON
    Electrical: 160 Amp Alt, Duralast Gold, C&D270FR, 2/0 Throughout




  2. #17
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    myYotaIsLoud is offline Junior Member

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    Re: Time to REALLY test your Enclosure knowledge......NEED HELP

    Yea, at 6'2", its tight. I am used to driving sports cars though. My seat is one click forward. so I drive with more bend in my legs then what most people like. But, it works for me. I think I may have figured out some ID's that will work. Using a wedge shaped box with a 7.5" bottom and 3.5" top(4.5" ID average for calc's), 16" tall(15" for calc's), and a 25" width(24" for calc's), I get JUST BARELY under 1 cubic foot. I can probably make it taller, but my 3.5" top would change. These are based off of the 3.4/7.5 x 16 x 12 ported 8" box thats back there now. I found a 8/4.5 x 16 x 49(all outer dims) out of .5" fiberboard that yeilds 1.04 cubic feet inside. But the cubic ft. of 1.04 is with the average displacement of a 12" sub already taken away. My sub displaces as much as your average 10"(0.5173 Qts, 0.5805 Qes, 4.7501 Qms, or 40L depending on which calculator your using. I'm probably going to keep researching but please, continued help is always welcome. So far, the people posting here have taught me as much if not more then what the sites have. Thanks




  3. #18
    akheathen's Avatar
    akheathen is offline trianoacitol contraceptiv akheathen is a Supporting Member of the forum!



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    Re: Time to REALLY test your Enclosure knowledge......NEED HELP

    yah, i know the feeling, to get a decent recline that allows me to place my arms and such in a comfortable position in my yota, i end up with my knees bent out to the sides. while 4runner seats are ok, and a decent bolt-up and can be interior match, i just generally pick a nice seat that i like. been over 10 years, but i belive my seats are out of a subaru, or acura, with 8, or 10-way manual adjustment, and i just mix and matched tracks that would work good, and made my own mounts. the inner tracks are just bolted right through the floor,l which isn't too hard to lay down and get to both sides of the bolt... one thing that may work out similarly to polyfill, is the use as the back-wall as a part of the enclosure. you gain a little cu, plus the flex of the metal. use of dampener would be key to keep resonance down, and i'm not sure how/if you could even calculate it, but i have seen it work. i remember seeing pressed batting inserts you could buy and install on one of the walls to simulate a larger enclosure about 10 years ago. never tried them, since they wanted too much, imo. of course, i'm willing to bet there is someone on here that can chime in on experience with doing this, too, as i've only seen it once, but didn't sound too bad, aside from the rear pannel working as a large speaker to make the bass pretty loud outside the truck..



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    -Heath H-

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