I'm considering staining the inside of a sealed box; is the stain safe for the surround and cone of the sub? The sub is an '05 XXX, appears to be rubber surround paper cone.
I'm considering staining the inside of a sealed box; is the stain safe for the surround and cone of the sub? The sub is an '05 XXX, appears to be rubber surround paper cone.
any purpose to staining something that won't be seen?
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I'm planning on using plexi so the inside will be visible. A buddy gave me a 2'x4' piece of 1" acrylic so I gotta try to use it!Was thinking about painting but figure if I could stain a decent color match to the factory woodgrain inside the car it'd be a little more unique.
thatd be real sick actually.
if it were me, i'd allow it to cure first, but i think that it would be just fine.
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For sure, I'd give it some time to cure before installing. I've got a picture in my head of the inside of the box and trim pieces around the amps stained to match the factory wood that would look good. I've never had to make the inside of a box look good so I'm not 100% sure I can pull it off but I think it's worth a shot. Just wanted to make sure the vapors from the stain wouldn't degrade the soft parts of the sub before I go too far with the plan.
depends on what stain your using but i think(not sure) that it is corrosive and with the amount of displacement the xxx has i bet you end up loosing the surround
i would worry about that a little but if you let it cure for a day or two and let it catch some wind it would be fine. i would be worried more if he were using laquer. either way when you stain or laquer furniture it doesnt give off fumes after a couple of days. so like was said before just let it cure long enough
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Thats worth a few hundred $$used to sell this and store cost of a 4x8 of 1/4" was ~$165 id imagine 1" would be in the neighborhood of 1400 also it depends on what stain you get, ask for low or no VOC (volatile organic compound) stain and you will have no volatile chemicals to worry about also it might seem weird because it wont smell like anything when you apply it.
edit:
not necessarily, also stain is more volatile than laquer it just depends on the compound and chemical composition of the item in question.
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IA 40.1, Nakamichi PA350, Arc audio 6.5s 2 way active (1986 Alphasonik x-over) Audio Control three.1, Kenwood KDC-X592, TREO SSX based 18: 8 layer flat wound copper coil w/ dual SS former, 3 medium nomex spiders built by SPLaudio and repaired by myself and Harshaw for optimal sexiness and performance.
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Right! There's no way I'd be doing the plexi if I was paying for it, it was a scrap from a construction job he had sitting in the garage so I couldn't say no.I'll have check into the stain a little more, someone had used a shade of Minwax polyshade with a couple coats of polyurethane and matched the wood in these cars for an interior piece, I'll have to look into how volatile that would be. I'll go to plan B if there's a chance of messing up the sub.
not to be a **** but if you have ever taken a college level micro course you can make biological weapons which are 16x more potent and i believe the cost to cover a square mile with chemical weapons was along the lines of 2k$ and to do it with bios was 1$.. just a fun fact.. not a terrorist btw... just got stuck taking ridiculous chemistry and biology classes for my major.. lol
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stain the outside :
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im a painter. and id say if you want to go with the stain do these steps. stain let dry put a coat of polyuerthane let dry. sand down the another coat of poly let dry sand and then a final coat of poly. it will make it look nice.
Not to be a **** but I was a chemical engineering student, I just recently switched majors to architecture, and I have indeed taken a college level micro course. Take thermonuclear physics then come back and talk to me. I still carry my nuclear physics minor
Thats a pretty sweet box, not sure i like the stain on mdf but thats a personal opinion, I like to see wood grain. I agree with team50boom poly will make it look nicer, and im pretty sure its not volatile.
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IA 40.1, Nakamichi PA350, Arc audio 6.5s 2 way active (1986 Alphasonik x-over) Audio Control three.1, Kenwood KDC-X592, TREO SSX based 18: 8 layer flat wound copper coil w/ dual SS former, 3 medium nomex spiders built by SPLaudio and repaired by myself and Harshaw for optimal sexiness and performance.
team Dbeez MECA as3 db3
☞2218☜ βθπ βν
refrences:
logan_searching, Big Rea$e, rfluvinmf, Davecubs14, reaudiofan, Krazed4Bass, SR20det, jbizzle x 4, bamaboy, mazdakid, mike11202,sbcaprice305, anotherguy(yes, that is his sn), ROE, coreyanderson, gebrochen, 528hz, bassmasta (x2), ustroops52, noob24,vrwm, lafanboy, explodftl,TheLow, tommythecat,dub22, hunterw, many more.....
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