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Reload Thread: dual Perfect 10s(DVC), tuning ideas?

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    namster44's Avatar
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    dual Perfect 10s(DVC), tuning ideas?

    I got two perfect 10s, DVC, and I was wondering if anyone was running these in a ported box? Just curious to what ppl are running them at? 29 hz? Or should I just go sealed at like 1.5 cubic ft per sub? SQ > SPL

    thanks


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    2 Infinity Perfect 10s(DVC)







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    i ran 1 12 perfect in a 4 cu ft box tuned to 33 hz for a while and it got hells loud but the sound quality want that great. But i plan on making the box smaller and trying it again tuned to about 27 29hz to see how the sq is then



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    I was thinking sealed, like 1.5ish cubic feet per sub, or less, most likely less. Thanks for the ideas. I had a 12.1 for while, till my brother alsolutely cooked the $hit outta it, like the sub caught fire and you can smell melted plastic, wire, and what not. So this time I want something different, hits hard, but accurate, so sealed may be my best option.

    thanks




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    Originally posted by namster44
    I was thinking sealed, like 1.5ish cubic feet per sub, or less, most likely less. Thanks for the ideas. I had a 12.1 for while, till my brother alsolutely cooked the $hit outta it, like the sub caught fire and you can smell melted plastic, wire, and what not. So this time I want something different, hits hard, but accurate, so sealed may be my best option.

    thanks
    fire from subs? Actual fire, or just burnt odour?

    Curious, cause Jlaine and alaxan's long long long ago post covered some facts about the various ways a sub can actually catch fire.



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    I wasn't around to see if they caught fire, fire, but my sub had burn marks all over the underside of the cone, I could smell that something was at one point burning in the voice coil too, oh did I mention he fried my JBL 1200.1....stupid f*cker.




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    1200 watts.....not quite, I only have a 80 amp alternator and 4 gauge power wire, so I'm not getting 1200 watts, also it was wired in a 4 ohm load, so it's more like half the 1200, give or take.




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    It really doesn't matter, but the point is, never let someone else use your car stereo which you paid for yourself. Oh, I didn't run the subs very hard at all, low gains and stuff, just using the sub for fill so I didn't over power them.




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    the 1200 would still have produced 600w@4ohms... heard that the 1200.1's real life draw was at around 80A anyway. if at 4 ohms, I guess it'd be half that? So my (nonsense) calculations say you WOULD've given the sub at least 600w RMS..(700w since it's under rated) Isn't that close to max figures for the subs?



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    The sub is toast, so now I'm moving on to two 10.1 Perfects VQ, DVC and then get the 1200.1 to run at a 2 ohm load and see what kind of numbers I can get.....maybe too much for them, but better than not having enough.




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    Originally posted by namster44
    The sub is toast, so now I'm moving on to two 10.1 Perfects VQ, DVC and then get the 1200.1 to run at a 2 ohm load and see what kind of numbers I can get.....maybe too much for them, but better than not having enough.
    erm, if you insist on infinity subs, then "not enough" is better than overpowering, that's what jmac is trying to tell you.

    If the 1200.1 drops to 2 ohms, it WILL produce 1200w (1300w in real life with adequate power) and again, 600~700w to each sub...will blow your subs again. Mybe it's time you thought about another sub, perhaps? Or another amplifier? Just a thought...



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    Underpowering a sub is worse then overpowering them to a POINT, there is a difference and I realize that, I just like running my amp nice a cool and not push it so I can get the best SQ from it. An amps true power(clarity and ouput) is achieved at about half way between it's max and min output. You run pass this, distortion comes into play and then I get sound that I don't want, SPL means nothing to me, SQ does, so that's why I have a big amp, good sized(not big at all) that make for a good sound stage.




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    Originally posted by namster44
    Underpowering a sub is worse then overpowering them to a POINT, there is a difference and I realize that, I just like running my amp nice a cool and not push it so I can get the best SQ from it. An amps true power(clarity and ouput) is achieved at about half way between it's max and min output. You run pass this, distortion comes into play and then I get sound that I don't want, SPL means nothing to me, SQ does, so that's why I have a big amp, good sized(not big at all) that make for a good sound stage.
    The infinity subs are known to be SQ-oriented, so I think you've got the right sub.

    However, the amps... perhaps a class A/B amp that produces about RMS 300w@4ohms? Or a small tube driver? I can't tell the diff between the Zapco reference and mid level amps for bass, but tube DOES seem to be quite different when com[pared to a class D amp(maybe it's just psychology, but I could've sworn there was a difference, even with slightly less power).

    My opinion is that you have to either change your choice of sub or amp.



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    A/B means big money for a good one, like a decent sized Zapco is quite a bit of money compared to the 200 or so US I spent on my JBL a year ago. I could use a Zapco for cheap if anyone has one, but I highly doubt that. Meh.




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