Had the subs sitting around in their shipping box since March of last year. Finally around Christmas I decided to get them installed.
Here's the basic box layout. All the joints are done with biscuits and glue. No screws other than those holding the subs in.
For those of you not familiar, this is a biscuit. You use a special tool to cut a pocket in both pieces of wood to be joined and insert the biscuit into the pockets. It ensures that the joint stays lined up as you clamp it and while the glue sets.
Here it is in the trunk with the amp that it juicing the pair. They do better for output than my XXX12 did on a 250HCCA in a max flat box. Pretty darn accurate, too. Would sound better if I had a crossover on the sub amp (long story and one that I'm not happy about, but I have a new crossover for the next install that will be starting here in a week or two.).
The amps running the front stage. One amp is bridged to each front midbass and the 3rd runs in stereo to the tweets. I have a variable crossover module in the tweet amp which feeds the low-pass signal to the other two amps. The midbass amps' gains are bypassed so the tweet amp gain controls the whole front stage gain. They are actually matched out quite well with a 4:1 power ratio.
Yes, those are 2 1 Farad caps and, yes I can easily overwhelm them by turning it up. If anyone thinks that caps work, here's your proof they don't (and I knew this coming in. There's a battery going in for the next install.). The car has a 165A alt that is totally hobbled by the ECU which controls the voltage regulator. Reaction time is on the order of 8 sec to a voltage drop. The wiring looks messy, but it's actually well organized and secure. Just didn't have a lot of room to work with.
How wire should be secured.
Like I said this is a temp setup just to have something in the car. The next go will be OS PG amps and 4 AA 8s. Stay tuned.