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    dyabolical's Avatar
    dyabolical is offline CarAudio.com Elite



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    sealed box design numbers

    Okay...so let me get in some back ground story:

    I have a 1997 Z71 extended cab chevy truck. I have the rear seat removed. I am planning on putting 4 JL 12W3v2's into the back. But for now i only have 2, the other 2 will wait till after the baby (real child) has arrived. SO, in the mean time, i will just be putting in 2.

    So on to some of the cab dimensions and what i have to work with.

    The cab from one side to the other is 63". From back of the cab to where i want to stop the box is about 32". My height from the floor to the bottom of the window is 30 inches.

    On to my box idea. My plan is to build 4 individual chambers. I have plenty of room to do 2 ported, but prefer 4 sealed. So that argument is dead and over with. A few models of my basic box idea"








    A few things on the images, the area shown is internal dimensions, the gaps between the textures represents a 3/4 MDF wall. I didn't want to go too deep just to make it look pretty, just give a general idea.

    The internal dimensions are the same for each, 14.5h X 16.5w x 9.5d Gives me 1.32 cubes. My driver displacement is .07 which brings me to 1.25'^3, which is what JL recommends.

    Now on to the part which will be somewhat hard to explain. Basically the 4 boxes will be built in rings. As in 5 walls (leaving the hole side open) will be built and glued together, then 4 walls glued/secured to the side of the first box, and then so on and so forth until 4 chambers are together.

    Then the plan is to "float" the chambers in the cab. This will give me a chance to still have my jack kit, wiring, whatever else i need hidden between the rear of the box and the rear of the cab. And when i mean float, i mean float. Because the box will not actually set on the floor board. It will be generously supported and bracketed, but free space will the had under the box.

    Now you ask, what am i planning on doing to the front face of the chambers that was left open? Well, i am going to cut a full sheet of MDF to cover all 4 open chambers, and then the holes for the subs and blah blah blah.

    Now the box will eventually come up just under the bottome of the window. I am going to build a box type enclosure out of MDF and plexiglass to house my amps. I won't worry too much about lack of airflow and overheating my amps because i will have installed some very quiet yet powerful computer fans in calculated positions to keep the amps nice and cool.

    Also, since i am only installing 2 subs and leaving the 2 chambers unused, i will only cut out the 2 sub ports that i need, and leaving the other 2 sealed for when i have the other speakers.

    So through the poor explanations and jibberish, anybody have comments or suggestions?
    Last edited by dyabolical; 07-29-2006 at 07:15 PM.







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    Volenti's Avatar
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    Re: sealed box design numbers

    Just a comment on the proposed construction method, if I was making this box I would make it out of 4 long peices (front,back,top,bottom) with 5 identical small peices that would make the sides and internal chamber walls.




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    dyabolical's Avatar
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    Re: sealed box design numbers

    Good suggestion, and i had it considered, but i felt it would be easier doing the ring method instead of having to deal with sticking in a very tight piece of mdf and getting it straight before the glue set up....but then again...wood glue takes a little while to set up...so the construction method is still up for debate.

    More input needed, of course. = )




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    dyabolical's Avatar
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    Re: sealed box design numbers

    Any more input?

    Btw, my amp rack concept design:





    Last edited by dyabolical; 07-30-2006 at 09:40 PM.




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    dyabolical's Avatar
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    Re: sealed box design numbers

    So the project got under way.

    first a quick look around the shop.






    Btw....i **** at straight cuts. So yeah, lots to do, have most of the cuts done...now a matter of piecing together and gluing and what not. I decided to build the box outside of the cab, which means to get it in i will have to take out my front seat.




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    Re: sealed box design numbers

    thats looking good man, looks like a lot of thought went into it... looking forward to updates




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    Re: sealed box design numbers

    A tip for cutting straight: Clamp a straight board down after lining up the cut and use the board to keep your cuts straight. Simple, and effective.

    -Lurius

    PS: **** nice collection of tools on the wall!



    Vehicle: 2004 Silverado ECSB 5.3L
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    Headunit:Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X789
    Front Speakers:Infinity Reference 6010cs
    Subwoofers:two Orion 2NT 10"s enclosed within sealed Probox
    Subwoofer Amp:Alpine MRV-T757 RIP =(
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    More photos here
    Refs: trevor87, bumpin_blazer, jonny101abc

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    helotaxi's Avatar
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    Re: sealed box design numbers

    Don't I see a table saw and a radial arm saw in the background there? No excuse for non-straight cuts...



    Artificial Intelligence is no match for Natural Stupidity.

    Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large numbers.

    Life's tough...it's even tougher when you're stupid.

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    dyabolical's Avatar
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    Re: sealed box design numbers

    Quote Originally Posted by helotaxi
    Don't I see a table saw and a radial arm saw in the background there? No excuse for non-straight cuts...

    Yeah, sadly when i started the project, i pulled the tab to start the table saw up and i let the smoke out of the motor. The thing is a good 25 years old...so yeah. Waiting for sears to get back to me with a new motor assembly.


    Clamping powa! Umm...not much to say, just gluing the end caps on.


    Just another angle of the same thing.


    And this is the beautiful view i had coming home from the lakehouse a few weekends ago.

    It is progressing slow....mainly because i can basically glue one piece at a time due to lack of clamps and such. Not sure where all my tools have gone..




  10. #10
    dyabolical's Avatar
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    Re: sealed box design numbers

    A few quick snaps:


    The target truck.


    Different angle.

    Well i am electrician..specializing in commercial and industrial applications. We were demo'ing out a few generators and had the chance to grab some power cable. Here is what i got:



    It is 646 MCM, diesel and locomotive grade cable. 1600 X24 conductor. Huge *** wire that is as flexible as thin jumper cables. VAC rating....40,000 volts. Me likes. Alot.

    Sadly i don't really have a use for it. I have some 250 MCM that i will be using for my Big 3 upgrade. It is relatively half the size of this stuff. Would be great if i was doing a buss bar system. But just a 1000/1 and a 300/1 won't require such hefty cable....i wonder if anybody would be in the market...heh.




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