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    My guide on how to make door pods

    well i see we have a kick panel guide and not a door pod guide. just went and completed this pod http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showth...83#post1880683 and already have people asking questions so i thought it would be a good idea to put it all together in one thread, with some explainations. Now i'm a **** poor glasser so if you got better skills, your will turn out even better. also not gonna get into how to actually lay fiberglass. there are good tutorials where you can learn how to glass.

    first you will start off by cutting a hole in you door panel. now you want to follow the same contour of you door panel. don't just cut a 8" round hole or whatever. make sure the hole is big enough though for your speaker.

    since you are actually building a sealed enclosure to mount to you door, you need something to anchor it too. on the outer doorskin, i mounted a piece of wood in which the pod itself will mount to. doesn't need to be thick or mdf. i just used some 1/2" osb scrap i had. you can use aluminum or whatever. just make sure it is sturdy



    now you want to put masking tape around the entire hole, going a good 6 or so inches out.



    now you can take some aluminum foil and put it in the hole and stretch it out 6 or so inches along with the asking tape and you can either hot glue or use spray adheisive to adhere it to the tape



    now, preferably with the same wood, you'll use the piece of the door panel you cut out to trace onto a piece of wood, the same shape of your hole, but about 1/2 to 1 inch smaller. this will eventually be the back of your pod

    now i used some fleece i picked up for walmart as the backing material. it wasn't too thick nor too thin. i measure side to side and top to bottom of the area i taped and added a few inches for inside the hole. i then took those measurements and cut out a piece of fleece. imo it's easier to handle when it is stretched tight on the back of that wood you cut.




    now take your wood and you can hot glue, try to get as close to the edge as possible, and glue it to the stretched fleece



    a little tip. pre drill one hole in the wood before you glue it to the fleece. then after you glue it to the fleece, cut the fleece around where the hole is. that way when you mount the wood, the screw won't rip the **** out of the fleece



    now you mount that board in the hole. (i'm assuming you had the common sense to test fit it before gluing to the fleece. when doing these always test fit before you move on ) then stretch the fleece out from the back of the wood onto the door panel where you applied the foil, using an adhesive. mine started to wrinkle so i made a relief cut. wrinkles are too big of a deal since you don't see this part when you are done, but try to keep them to a minimum



    now trim away excess material




    now time for the resin. imo with fiberglass, it is always easier to do if you have a good workstation. i like to be chest level so you see i have a stool to sit on, and i set up a make-shift work bench with jack stands and plywood. all the materials i need are setup and no excess materials are there to clutter up the area








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    Re: My guide on how to make door pods

    now after you mix the resin, you wanna soak the material. basically i almost poored it on and just spread it around with the brush. don't be shy. also cover the area as this will be messy. i used 3 whole cups on this



    now i let that dry. doesn't take long to dry. i then take the mold out after it has dried.



    you can see where it hasn't been totally covered with resin. you then apply resin and put one layer of mat down



    now you want to make sure to resin the back side of the pod. trim as much foil off as you can.



    now you want to test fit the mold



    now taking a marker, draw along where you want the pod to be cut. be sure to leave an inch or too to create a lip



    i used a jigsaw to cut mine out, but if you got a dremel with a fiberglass bit, then use it

    Last edited by iceteebone; 06-07-2006 at 12:29 PM.




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    Re: My guide on how to make door pods

    now test fit your mold again. see if there is anywhere that needs adjusting. in mine i needed to takes more off the top so my power window/lock switch would fit



    trimmed it and it fits perfectly



    then i sanded it down, but didn't put too much into sanding since it won't be seen



    now the back mold is completed

    now you gotta make a speaker ring/baffle. doesn't need to be perfect round but can't be butchered. i used the same wood for the ring as the rest of the pod. made it freehand with a jigsaw



    now make sure your speaker fits the ring





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    Re: My guide on how to make door pods

    now it is time to mount the baffle to the mold. i try to use as thick of wooden dowls as i can. what i did was cut 2 at 3" using a chop saw, and 2 more at 3.75. now the depth totally dependson your door and speaker. the short ones i hot glued 1 on the top and one of the side closest to the passenger. the 2 long ones went on the bottom and back side. i did this so when i place the baffle in the pod. it'll angle it towards the passenger

    use lots of hot glue when mounting the dowels to the baffle. you can see i used some thick dowels



    now glue that to the mold.



    test fit the speaker to make sure the magnet doesn't hit the dowels



    now time to put the fabric on the front. it's best to use a thin stretch material. i used polyester wich isn't stretchy but worked. i glued the baffle to the material, but you can use spray adhesive under the lip on the top of the mold and stretch the material over the front and getting out wrinkles. less wrinkles equal smoother finish and less bondo and sanding. here is mine stretched which isn't very good. had to make a relief cut as well.



    now i cut away the excess



    now you wanna put down fiberglass. 2-3 layers. as you can tell i have some air bubbles. the pod is pretty strong so i didn't worry about them. it means more bondo and sanding



    before sanding and bondo, i trim all the excess stuff from along the edges

    next you gotta sand down the fiberglass. a power sander is your friend. use gritty sand paper, 40-60 grit. then apply your bondo and sand. i did 2 layers of bondo and it still has indentations. if you stretch your material better, the surface will be smoother.



    trimed any excess material along the edge and primered it



    now you can cover your pod however you want. since mine isn't too smooth, i'll likely use vinyl or something to cover it. here i sprayed it black and you can see the imperfections.



    next i cut out the hole for the speaker.





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    Re: My guide on how to make door pods

    speaker fits perfectly



    now try it in the door





    now you'll cut a hole to insert your speaker wire and make sure to seal it with silicone. now through the speaker hole, you can tighten the screws to the brace you made in the door. hook up your speaker and you are all done.

    now this project took me 2 days for just 1 pod. lots of materials and tools were used. here is run down of what was used

    container of resin
    lots of tubes of liquid hardner
    tube of cream hardner
    can of bondo
    bondo spreaders
    lots of cups, paint brushes, and disposable gloves
    scrap wood
    wooden dowels
    hot glue
    fiberglass mat
    jigsaw
    chop saw
    drill
    electric sander
    sanding block
    sand paper




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    Re: My guide on how to make door pods

    i'm new to fiberglassing and if i can make it then ayone can. i know there are many different ways to do it, but after almost 3 years and 17k posts i might as well contribute something usefull to the forum




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    Re: My guide on how to make door pods

    also post if you think this is helpful. if not i'll just have it deleted. can't find out if the thread is a good idea or not unless you post it




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    Re: My guide on how to make door pods

    Good idea, you guys just go about some things wierd



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    Re: My guide on how to make door pods

    Quote Originally Posted by ramos
    Good idea, you guys just go about some things wierd

    my high school counselor said i wasn't normal

    what is weird about it?




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    Re: My guide on how to make door pods

    looks strong and sturdy, well built... but how could you make one look ****?



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    Re: My guide on how to make door pods

    Quote Originally Posted by psych0ticnemes1
    looks strong and sturdy, well built... but how could you make one look ****?

    do a better job of stretching the material. mine wasn't stretched well but if you stretch it better it would be a lot smoother

    once i cover it in vinyl it'll look better. i left it kinda open at the end for you to cover it however you want




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    Re: My guide on how to make door pods

    Looks pretty sweet man! Why didn't you go infinite baffle? Why did you use kind of a sealed enclosure?



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    Re: My guide on how to make door pods

    Quote Originally Posted by iceteebone
    my high school counselor said i wasn't normal

    what is weird about it?

    The way you stretched your material is wierd to me. I know your gonna do it a different way next time. I just have never seen anybody go about it that way with the clamps and such



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    Re: My guide on how to make door pods

    Quote Originally Posted by iceteebone
    do a better job of stretching the material. mine wasn't stretched well but if you stretch it better it would be a lot smoother

    once i cover it in vinyl it'll look better. i left it kinda open at the end for you to cover it however you want
    oh ok, nice work... now im me sometime



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    Re: My guide on how to make door pods

    Quote Originally Posted by ramos
    The way you stretched your material is wierd to me. I know your gonna do it a different way next time. I just have never seen anybody go about it that way with the clamps and such

    lol i just felt it was easier to stretch it that way. last time i didn't stretch it tight enough and there was slack and it made it harder to stretch onto the panel. i did sealed caues i figured it is sturdier and rather easy to do. also if i would've glassed it to the actuall panel and **** up, then the panel is ruined




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