Will doin the big 3 upgrade make my system louder? And do i need to have 0 gauge to do it?
Will doin the big 3 upgrade make my system louder? And do i need to have 0 gauge to do it?
It will make it more stable. 1/0 is a good idea
- 2010 Scion tC
- Alpine CDA-117
- JL 450/4v2 Active (Mid range, tweeters) JL 300/2v2 (Mid bass) DC 5K(Subs)
- Hertz HV 165XL
- Hertz HT28
- JL ZR800
- 2 x DD 9512i
- Singer 300 amp 15.1v bypass, 3 XS D3400s
- DD M4a and XS D3100 coming soon
- Viper 5701 with Smart Start
Okay thanks ill consider it if it seems like i need it
You always need it when you add current pulling equipment
- 2010 Scion tC
- Alpine CDA-117
- JL 450/4v2 Active (Mid range, tweeters) JL 300/2v2 (Mid bass) DC 5K(Subs)
- Hertz HV 165XL
- Hertz HT28
- JL ZR800
- 2 x DD 9512i
- Singer 300 amp 15.1v bypass, 3 XS D3400s
- DD M4a and XS D3100 coming soon
- Viper 5701 with Smart Start

Louder? No, not unless your voltage is dropping so low that your amps are choking.
Big 3 is just a bandaid for a lack of alternator power, but it does reduce electrical resistance, which optimizes your current alternator. However, it's a necessity if you do run a HO alternator.
BTW, skip the run from engine block to frame. Connect one end to the alternator case bolt, and the other to your batt negative termination point close to the battery (or the batt negative terminal). The alternator case is the true electrical ground when the engine is running. No sense forcing the current to go through the block to get there.
Simple SQ System:
Head Unit: Alpine CDA-117
Active Crossover: Cache' CEX
Front Stage Amp: Boston Acoustics GTA-704
Components: Polk Audio DB 6501
Sub Amp: Boston Acoustics GTA-1000m
Sub: JBL P1224, 2.5 ft^3 @ 25 hz enclosure
Rear Fill: Sony Xplod 5.25s on HU power lolz
TitoThePirate liked this post

All it will do is let ur alternator get more power out with the bigger cables. if you are going to do it you might as well go 0.
Ride: Toyota Corolla (hope to get rid of it soon)
Headunit: Alpine CDE-123
Subwoofers:
Amplifiers: Memphis 16 Pri-1000
Speakers Front: JL Audio TR650-CSi comps
Speakers Back: JL Audio TR650-CSi coax
Okay so it looks like I need to do this to save my alt so what exactly do I do? So far ik I have to connect 0ga wire from the bolt on my alt to the neg terminal on the battery...what else?
So I go from positive on alt to pos on batt to pos on amp and the same thing with ground except how do I get the ground to the amp? Do I just leave my current ground where it is
Any amplifier will see a significant efficiency increase if the voltage were brought up significantly. Going from say 12v to 14 volts would be huge and would definitely make it louder.
The big 3 is not a "bandaid". It is necessary with or without a HO alt for aftermarket accessories. As stated it reduces the series resistance in the chain and allows whatever alternator that is installed to get the most current to the devices needing it. Without the big 3, you are unnecessarily choking your equipment.Big 3 is just a bandaid for a lack of alternator power, but it does reduce electrical resistance, which optimizes your current alternator. However, it's a necessity if you do run a HO alternator.
The frame is where all devices are grounded within the car. Alternator case to chassis would be one of the most important grounds. The starting battery doesn't do much of anything once the vehicle is started. The lower the voltage the larger the toll that series resistance takes so acting like the starting battery is the main thing to focus on is off the mark.BTW, skip the run from engine block to frame. Connect one end to the alternator case bolt, and the other to your batt negative termination point close to the battery (or the batt negative terminal). The alternator case is the true electrical ground when the engine is running. No sense forcing the current to go through the block to get there.
I know I quoted your post and corrected you but I don't mean to be insulting. I'm just trying to help.

Simple SQ System:
Head Unit: Alpine CDA-117
Active Crossover: Cache' CEX
Front Stage Amp: Boston Acoustics GTA-704
Components: Polk Audio DB 6501
Sub Amp: Boston Acoustics GTA-1000m
Sub: JBL P1224, 2.5 ft^3 @ 25 hz enclosure
Rear Fill: Sony Xplod 5.25s on HU power lolz
where do u come up with these questions?
TEAM AUDIO TECHNIX
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TEAM CADENCE
Sold to: imtjnotu; ace_800; omegabunny crazykenkid Bought from: El_weenie; fasfocus00; retroaudioinc; f1mclarenagr; jason19; tone415; twizted859; noph33rracing; tony30cl; carlosg_313 Traded with: Micah_Jones; MikeOfTulsa
Yeah the reason I commented was that what you were saying had some things wrong with it. Nothing is done to your alternator so you can't really optimize it. You can help the current it puts out to flow with less restriction.
As for the ground location: You specifically mentioned the battery, which is pretty insignificant. You didn't mention the chassis at all which is why I posted. You're absolutely correct though to try to circumvent the engine block if possible, but circumventing going DIRECTLY to the chassis is a problem. The power comes from the alt and it needs to get to the chassis. So, going from alt to chassis is the best way. If you want to connect your batt there so be it. That's all I was trying to say. I didn't want to insult or start a back and forth. I'm sorry I just thought I could help in some way. Have a good weekend.
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Bought from- kurtdirt1, jmanpc, doingstuffwell
Traded with- DaGhost, Spooney
TEAM AUDIO TECHNIX
TEAM SSC
TEAM CADENCE
Sold to: imtjnotu; ace_800; omegabunny crazykenkid Bought from: El_weenie; fasfocus00; retroaudioinc; f1mclarenagr; jason19; tone415; twizted859; noph33rracing; tony30cl; carlosg_313 Traded with: Micah_Jones; MikeOfTulsa
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