Grill cloth is a good matterial that is stretchy. As for the amount of heat for it to crack, it does take more like summer heat to do the damage.
Printable View
Grill cloth is a good matterial that is stretchy. As for the amount of heat for it to crack, it does take more like summer heat to do the damage.
Cracking occurs in heat above the temperature that the resin manufacturer recommends....to compensate just use a little less hardener and you shouldn't have any problems. Or actually follow the directions. ;)
As far as what cloth to use....it's not that big of a deal. Something that streches farily easily and can soak up resin will do the job. If you think it's too thin, you can always reinforce it with a couple of layers of mat.
exactly if you follow directions it will be fine. i used fleece for my kicks and you'll be hard pressed to find much warmer summer's than August in central Tx. 2 yrs and not 1 crack so take it with a grain of salt. personally i feel car audio and electronics is 90% or more biased b/c they get paid for their spots by certain companies.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gauntlet
adam
I would pretty much agree with ya on your opinion of car audio when it comes to reviewing product... But this was an article and there was no actuall products that I rember for them to push...Quote:
Originally Posted by bumpin_blazer
I wish I could find that issue and read it again...
That article had nothing to do with products at all, it was a demo for building your own fiberglass dash. As for finding that article try www.caraudiomag.com/contactus/ and contact back issues. The magazine name is Car Audio and Electronics, the issue date is October 2003, Volume 16 Number 10
How good do they stand up to the weather? Like the heat vents by your foot, and also, since winters' pretty much here [in chicago, this sunday], wouldn't your wet rain/snow feet damage them? Me, or the driver, would be careful about the kicks when getting in the car and driving, but when you have joe schmoe get in on the passenger side and kick them whilst getting in with his steel-toe boots after walking in 2 foot of snow....makes me wonder??
Put snow and water into your bathtub ... how does it hold up ? :) (well, some have an inside lining, but the outside is sprayed with fiberglass ... water won't hurt the fiberglass itself)
A little common sense goes a long way when you get into the vehicle. You should be able to make them pretty much "up and out of the way" kind of deal. Just warn your passengers to watch where the hell they put their feet ;)
You can make them as strong as you want to ... for kick panels, some just resin the fleece and call it a day. But, you can make them strong enough to park your car on if you wish.
- Steve
as i said my car has never had any problems. i've had my kick panels in the car for 2 years not 1 crack, nick, dent, break etc. i agree with steve i tell anyone who gets into my car, " think i'm insane or not you kick my kick panel hard enough to damage anything you better believe you are paying to fix it." so far that's worked pretty well except when my dink self hit the dustcap on my vifa mids and dented it:(. oh i also forgot to mention this in my post, i put my kick panel on concrete to dry so that's probably i'd guess 120-150 degree's if the air is at 100. so i'd guess temp won't do much aside from putting your kick panel under say a blow torch:D.
adam
Ya dude, that looks really good. I've got an idea for some kick panels for my truck, and this really helped me out in figuring out the steps. I think i'll work on them in the summer once i got a little more time...
Finally convinced myself to try...so...
What steps can I leave out??? I wanna spend as less time as possible and as less money as possible, but not at the sacrifice of doing a poor job.
I'm gonna be parked on a one way street for doing the left kick, let it dry(or is it harden); then the next day, park on the other side and do the right kick.
My plan is to put a some hd-62efs in em, and I do want good imaging.
also I don't know what a dremel is and when I looked it up, it's a company...so what product am I exaclty looking for???
You're looking for a basic rotary tool, like this:
http://www.dremel.com/productdisplay...sku=1003009005
I got a basic one at Home Depot for around 40 bucks, and the fiberglass cutting bit for $10.
As far as what steps to leave out....they're pretty much all very important to the final product....
Nice job!!!!!!!!!!!
thanks for share, it is helping me a lot.
S. Moreno
This should nearly go without saying but there was one small point missed in this thread. I see he mentioned wearing safety glasses when sanding fiberglass... quite true, I recommend them anytime working with mat, dry or cured. trust me, the first time you bend fiberglass mat, look into the air around it... you'll see little shimmering "hairs" and they float alot. Which also leads me to my point. A RESPERATOR is HIGHLY recommended, during mat handling, coating, and sanding. I found my reserator, made for fiberglass made a HUGE difference in the fumes, fiberglass hairs, and sanding particles... Try fiberglassing without one and you'll have a sore throat after I guarantee it. Latez!
Just did a pair of kicks. I'm still alive and kicking. No mask ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Hondaluv
Though I HIGHLY suggest that you wear one.
- Steve