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Reload Thread: Fiberglass How To's

  1. #31
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    Re: Fiberglass How To's

    Fiberglast.com or you can check your yellow pages for fiberglass supplies.



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    Re: Fiberglass How To's

    I have learned so much from the other tutorials and pictures found around here. I have chronicalled my own fiberglassing expirenece in a tutorial found here:

    http://www.ajquick.com/cars/tutorials/fiberglass.php



    http://www.AJQuick.com/ Fiberglassing Tutorial!

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    Re: Fiberglass How To's

    ^Awesome

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    Re: Fiberglass How To's

    anybody know how to fiberglass a dash?




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    Re: Fiberglass How To's

    a dash would take alot of time.....but first thing you got to do is take the old dash off and then make a fram for the new one.....and make sure all the holes match up for the screws and such.....very difficult project and very time consuming




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    Re: Fiberglass How To's

    RESIN!

    It burns!

    I was dumb again, didn't wear any protection as usual.

    How do I get it off. It burns.




  7. #37
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    Re: Fiberglass How To's

    acetone. (it usually says "EPOXY\FIBERGLASS RESIN THINNER" under the word ACETONE that is in bold large letters.

    got a huge glob of resin off my armhair in a matter of seconds. just rub it as if it were soap, and it dissolves off.




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    Re: Fiberglass How To's

    Ah thanks. It did the trick. Just a little sticky now




  9. #39
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    Re: Fiberglass How To's

    couldnt u just keep adding fiberglass resin to the fleece instead of using fiberglass matte. i am very new to fiberglassing, so please excuse my newbiness




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    Re: Fiberglass How To's

    Quote Originally Posted by bboybrown
    couldnt u just keep adding fiberglass resin to the fleece instead of using fiberglass matte. i am very new to fiberglassing, so please excuse my newbiness
    That would make it VERY brittle, the matt adds strength, not just hardness...



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  11. #41
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    Re: Fiberglass How To's

    for the "normal cloth" you want something really absorbant and strechy like fleece or old sweat pants and then you put the fiberglass on that mold
    Now according to Steve brown ( one of the makers of the Alpine Civic, RSX, and Cooper ) you should use very thin material..because thick material as a much higher chance of cracking compared to thin material...just my input




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    Re: Fiberglass How To's

    Quote Originally Posted by bboybrown
    couldnt u just keep adding fiberglass resin to the fleece instead of using fiberglass matte. i am very new to fiberglassing, so please excuse my newbiness
    you can but you need to add a filler to it Aerosil-Cabosil works well.
    i would add it to the inside of the box that way you dont need to sand as much
    filler




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    Re: Fiberglass How To's

    You should use 2-4oz fiberglass mat, and, using latex or nitrile gloves, (not medical grade) soak it in fiberglass by using a paint roller to roll resin across a piece of cardboard, then put the mat over the wet patch, and generously roll more on, then pick it up and put it where you want it. After laying 1-layer everywhere, start making 2-layer patches and place them everywhere. For a strong fiberglass job you would want a minimum of 4 layers, more if you feel its necessary. Do NOT put a little more catalyst than is told by the manufacturer of the resin kit. Ive seen guys catch their trunks on fire. Overcatalyzed resin can reach up to 500 degrees.

    I strongly suggest buying Smith Fibercast resin kits. They come in small kits too for Kickpanel installs.




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    Re: Fiberglass How To's

    I also suggest using Vulkem sealant in addition to any Dynamat or other sound dampening materials. vulkem is caulk style so you can squirt the goop anywhere you need it, and its runny enough to fill certain areas. Good for filling holes and loose areas of your trunk, behind your liscense place, around screws, to use as a barrier against moisture, for holding many layers of dynamat together, and for sealing sub enclosures. Vulkem comes in white and black colors. Nobody really knows about it because its used in construction and the petroleum industry.
    Works great as a sealant. Dont fill your walls with it however, itll get heavy. Better than cilicone. Its thick and pasty, but wet, so you can smear it around with a latex glove wherever you want it. Good for making smooth transitions.




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    Re: Fiberglass How To's

    Quote Originally Posted by TimberJon
    I also suggest using Vulkem sealant in addition to any Dynamat or other sound dampening materials. vulkem is caulk style so you can squirt the goop anywhere you need it, and its runny enough to fill certain areas. Good for filling holes and loose areas of your trunk, behind your liscense place, around screws, to use as a barrier against moisture, for holding many layers of dynamat together, and for sealing sub enclosures. Vulkem comes in white and black colors. Nobody really knows about it because its used in construction and the petroleum industry.
    Works great as a sealant. Dont fill your walls with it however, itll get heavy. Better than cilicone. Its thick and pasty, but wet, so you can smear it around with a latex glove wherever you want it. Good for making smooth transitions.
    why not just use some kind of evercoat filler\kitty hair for smooth transitions?

    i suppose it would work as a glue\sealer in a deadenening job.

    mind giving a link to this stuff?




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